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Trick to straightening bed rails and tailgate top?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kevin Lee, Dec 31, 2009.

  1. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,676

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Picked up a decent tailgate for the F1 last night, but the top rail is dented in a few spots. Not smashed flat or even close to halfway across the diameter (if that makes sense) just 3 or 4 good sized dents maybe a 1/3 into the diameter.

    Is there any trick to straightening these? I was thinking I could make a mandrel from a short section of DOM tubing. Weld up one end and shape it like a bullet then drive it through from one end to the other?

    Only worry would be getting it stuck in there. Maybe I make two sizes and try to do it in steps?
     
  2. Kail
    Joined: Jul 7, 2007
    Posts: 828

    Kail
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    you can use a stud gun and a slide hammer to pull up the lows, probably wont get it perfect but close enough to mud
     
  3. Kail
    Joined: Jul 7, 2007
    Posts: 828

    Kail
    Member
    from Austin, TX

  4. one37tudor
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 146

    one37tudor
    Member

    I did that one time using a home made expanding tube. I made an expander much like a muffler pipe expander with a long handle on it and would center it on the dent and then expand it. Got about 90 percent of the dent out.

    Scott...
     
  5. bj1k
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 23

    bj1k
    Member
    from Cabot, Pa.

    A stud welder is ok for some dents in the open area of sheet metal, but for something that small and heavy metal it won't pull it out even, if at all. Your idea is where to begin. I run a metal restoration business doing strictly metal restoration of cl***ics and antiques and I have used this method many times, but you want to heat the metal cherry red in the area of the dents when you drive the tool through. You shouldn't have to worry about getting the tool stuck because if it tapers a bit at the other end, you just drive it out the way you started in. You can use the tool as a dolly while it is inside, just be careful that you don't compress it too much and you should be fine. As far as the bed side rails , that is another situation.
     
  6. 46stude
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,718

    46stude
    Member

    I saw something exactly like that in a "how to" on the web a couple years ago. Sorry, but I don't have the link anymore. The guy ground a "bullet" shape out of a chunk of solid pipe & drove it thru w/ a long rod. I was planning on doing it to my Studebakers bed sides & 'gate someday. It really looked like it worked well for the guy.
     
  7. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    if it's anything like my International that will NOT work. Just yanked the studs right off. Damn that's some beefy tailgate.
     
  8. LowFat48
    Joined: Aug 28, 2005
    Posts: 910

    LowFat48
    Member

    the way you described is the way I did it , heated the dents first then drove the pipe thru , slowly , don`t want to tear it
     
  9. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    Do you have any pictures of the damage?
     
  10. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,777

    alchemy
    Member

    Somebody on the HAMB once showed how they straightened some dents out of an old Ford steering column tube with a ball bearing. Picked a size that matched the ID of the tube, and drove it through with a hunk of slightly smaller pipe.

    Wouldn't do much for straightening a long bend, but would bring the round shape back to the roll. Maybe give the rail an overall straightening first (use some heat?), then fix the tube?
     
  11. stud puller probably won't work on what you are describing...I am guessing using heat and drive something thru will work best...LowFat48 is right when he says slow and steady...should be able to get it close enough and then use some mud or lead ...good luck and let us know what works and post before and after pix
     
  12. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,434

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Did they same thing on a Military Dodge M37B1 I restored...heat the dent and go slow, I had to work my way up as the dent was near half the diameter of the tube so started with a smaller tube and eased it out step by step, worked well.
     
  13. LowFat48
    Joined: Aug 28, 2005
    Posts: 910

    LowFat48
    Member

    if you get it hot enough the metal moves pretty easily , so you don`t want to go beating the hell out of the pipe , helps to have someone keep the heat on the dent while your doing it
     
  14. Dodge Brother
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 149

    Dodge Brother
    Member

    I have also heard of using a length of ready rod( the heavier the better) with a plug welded to the end that is almost the same size as the ID of the tubing you need. you fill the tubing with grease, attach washers and a nut on the opposite end with a nut welded to the very end and slowly turn the ready rod all the way through using hydrolic pressure to push up any low spots.

    I can't remember where I heard about this, so if it was someones idea from here the credit should go to them
     
  15. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,982

    Paul
    Editor

    sounds like you have a workable plan,

    if the damage was severe you might consider surgery..

    cut the offending section out and either rework or recreate it,
    then weld it back in.
     
  16. nutajunka
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,464

    nutajunka

    Seems like no more damage then what you explained, it would be easier to just make some 1/3 half round shell's out of the same gage metal and weld it on the dents, just at surface level. Maybe tap in the out of round parts with heat before welding and then metal finish the outside rail. Nobody's ever going to inspect the inside of the rail for hidden dent's I would hope. Then there is always lead.
     
  17. oldrelics
    Joined: Apr 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,727

    oldrelics
    Member
    from Calgary

    I ditto the stud gun NOT working, way too heavy of metal. I ended up welding 1" diameter washers in the dents and using a slide hammer with a hook-end in the washer hole. Its slow and tedius process.
     
  18. scottybaccus
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,109

    scottybaccus
    Member

    As you drive the mandrel through, remember you can use it in hammer & dolly fashion. That should prevent it getting stuck.
     
  19. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,707

    raven
    Member

    Just take an angle cutter and cut out the bent piece. Work it back to fractory shape, then weld it back in.
    r
     
  20. 55 dude
    Joined: Jun 19, 2006
    Posts: 9,357

    55 dude
    Member

    heat and ball bearing welded to solid shaft works great. i have also cut top of gate off and replaced with new piece and it looked fine.
     
  21. hiboy32
    Joined: Nov 7, 2001
    Posts: 2,797

    hiboy32
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

    Kevin, what you described would get pretty close.

    As you tap your DOM through, you will want to use one of your body hammers to tap on the metal around the dent.
    When the dent happened, some of the metal caused a high spot , probably on the lower side of the dent.
    If you work the dom through and tap around the dent you will be able to work out the dent with sufficiant results.

    Good luck
    Jeff
     
  22. dave lewis
    Joined: Dec 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,381

    dave lewis
    Member
    from Nampa ID

    +1 for the ball bearing.. Thats how we fix headers...heat the tube cherry red and pound the bearing thru. I have several sizes with 1/2" rod welded to em..
    Dave
     
  23. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member


    "O.K." ('Oll's Keerect', Olde English) Do this. Don't let 'modern politics' pull you to the left. Do it RIGHT.
     
  24. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    READ INTO THIS. GOOD IDEA. My favorite...
     
  25. duste01
    Joined: Nov 5, 2006
    Posts: 1,209

    duste01
    Member

    not quite as glamourous, but in spots I couldnt get to, I would turn down the heat on the mig and just fill it and grind it smooth.
     
  26. Mr. Clean
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 89

    Mr. Clean
    Member

    I just had this same problem with the tailgate of my F1. It had about 5 or 6 dents that went in about 1/2 of the top bar. My solution was to weld two 6 penney nails together side by side and then weld one nailhead to the dent. Hook the head of the second nail with a nailbar, place a 4x4 block under the nailbar to act as a fulcrum, and then heat around the dent while pushing down on the nailbar. This method pulled the dents out to about 95% of the original contour. I also liked the idea of using a ball bearing. Currently looking for a ball bearing to try to clean up the remaining dents.
     
  27. KrisKustomPaint
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,107

    KrisKustomPaint
    Member

    That is the most horrible thing I have ever heard.
     

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