Rear crossmember is welded at frame,gusseted under crossmember and braced to frame. Spring is 1946 front. Hairpins are 32" long attached to crossmember mount.
Nice stance!! I wonder if the crossmember will take the twisting load though. I would do some gusseting in the corners to be safe if it was mine.
+1 on that. The crossmember wasn't designed for an eccentric load, so it needs some added torsional strength. Bob
As stated in opening thread; Rear crossmember is welded to frame,not just rivited.Crossmember is gusseted underneath. There are 2 angled braces between crossmember and side rails. There appears to be NO cantilever effect with these modifications....But I ain't no expert........
Sorry, I didn't notice the 2 braces. If you have the ends reinforced and the braces in place it should work.. Nice coupe!!
I have been stalled on my A coupe build looking for a good clean route to install my 36 rear banjo, radius rods, rear mounted spring & closed driveline in my 31 A coupe with a rumble seat, your straight froward mod is the ticket, thanks for posting.
Moving the crossmember back seems like the usual way, but this should work well too, and probably is less time consuming.
I like your method of getting the spring centerline back for the "spring behind" application. I'm going to try that on the Model A frame I'm putting my '27 body on. Looks like it might be a little less work than lenghthening the frame. Frank
Thought I would bring this thread back up to say after 2 1/2 yrs with this set up, everything was still working fine.. I have seen some questions about spring behind setups on stock model A frames and thought maybe this could help.. I've since sold the coupe and moved on to other A's..
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