I have searched everywhere I can think of to find a drawing of the MII rack internals. I need to know how to get the drivers side end off of the rack itself. The ball has about .060 inch of in and out play. Is this normal and if not, can this be replaced or is a rebuild kit available? Another thing I need to know is, should the lower control arm pivot point be the same dimension apart as the two ball pivots of the rack? If this dimension isn't the same, wouldn't this cause bump steer? The pivot balls in my rack measure 24 1/2 inches apart, center to center. Shouldn't my lower pivot bushings measure the same?
you need to locate a factory service manual as that is probably your best bet. try your local public library.
I don't know if this will answer your question but here's link to Webrodder where they show how to narrow a M11 rack. In part one they show how to dismantle the rack as part of the process. (good tech stuff there by the way) http://webrodder.com/article.php?AID=393&SID=16&CID=18
That article on webrodder is good info, but my rack is a power unit and the ends are attached different. There is no pin and locknut. There is a pin looking item that appears to be through the end but it will not drive out. May have loc***e on it. If mine has the nylon cup like the pics, that is what is probably worn out, or broken.
IIRC you need to pull the short pin that is locking the thread. Best way is usually to weld a nub to the pin with a TIG and then pull it out with pliers or vice grips.
The pin you are talking about is flush fit with the inner tie rod nut. It is a roll pin you can move the tie rod nut back and forth till it protrudes a little then latch on to it with some side cutters to pull it out, always replace this when you re***emble it.
Thanks. About the second part of my question. Should the two pivot points be the same distance apart?
The inner rack pivots need to be in line with the upper and lower control arm pivots. Given that the upper control arm pivots are wider than the lower it would stand to reason why the rack is about two inches (one per side) than the lower control arm pivots because the rack centerline is about two inches or so above the lower control arm pivot. If the rack centerline was dead nuts level with the lower control arms and those lower control arms had parallel pivot lines to the centerline of the car, then the inner rack pivots could be the same distance. BUT the steering arms also need to correlate with this positioning of the rack to negate the bumpsteer.
Thanks ELpolacko, I knew you would be able to clarify this for me. Also the pin through the short end appears to be a short aluminum split rivet. Can't tell what it is holding. The opposite end (the long end) does have a roll pin but that end is still tight, no play.
This is for the later Mustang but it seems to be the same thing you describe. http://allfordmustangs.com/forums/road-racing/16772-how-replace-inner-tie-rods.html
Will do tomorrow. Hackerbuilt, Those pics are probably what I need. Don't know what that special tool is but I'll bet I can work around it.
trying to post a pic. keep getting invalid file. will try again. The pin shown is aluminum and isn't through. it is a blind hole. the other hole is only partially drilled, no pin. looks to be for a spanner type.
Those are just soft aluminum.. you can try and drill it out but I have had pretty good success just 'running it over' when you loosen the inner tie rod.
I am going to try pulling it by drilling and tapping a 4-40 thread and screwing in a screw to pull on.
Got everything apart. This is what I have. The round cup looking thing should have some kind of self lubricating spherical brearing that rubs on the ball of the rod. The round item with the square hole tightens down against the cup and holds the rod ball tight in the socket. If I can't buy the cup I am going to make a bearing from Delrin. It is high density material and with it being captured inside the cylinder, it should be OK.
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