I'd just kinda like to add to PLEASE make sure you use safety gl***es at least, but preferably a full face shield, when messing with this nasty stuff. I know we all like to think of safety gl***es as an "at work" only thing but that's the wrong at***ude. I can remember spraying a Holley Metering block with a can of Gum-Out, cleaning out the p***ages, and I be damned if it doesn't squirt out of another p***age and straight into my eyes, thus instantly melting a set of contac lenses. Again......just be careful!
Here's a nice one, fairly large capacity for a good price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...akeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
For you home mechanics out there, that carb dip is a serious health hazard. If you are going to use it keep it away from your family and use a resparator. We stopped using it at the shop in favor of less harmful methods.
The main reason I stopped buying those buckets was size and consumption. The one gallon bucket won't soak anything bigger than a stromberg in one sitting. And a 5 gallon bucket is just way too much to keep around for 3 carbs a year. The spray cans seem to work just fine for most carbs anyway, well at least if you're willing to use toothbrushes and pipe cleaners. If you got a real bad one there's still things like purple power or penetrating oil or even just dawn & water. The compostion of carb deposits varies anyway. Day or two in whatever the secondary solution is, then another spray can rinse, it'll be clean. Somebody earlier asked what shops are really using. Ultrasonic tanks are widely available from Snap-on, Mac, etc. There's all kinds of specialty cleaners out there but you'd really be suprised at what a little Dawn and hot water will do in a good ultrasonic tank, plus there's no disposal concerns. If you can find the coin for a heated UT tank, do it.
There was a story a few years ago about someone who got in a fight at a bar. This guy thought he would get even by taking a gallon of carb dip and pouring it over the other guys car. He died. When it's in a can, it only has so much surface area to release the vapor, but when you spread it out, that's a whole other ball game
Be v-e-r-y careful with carb dip and other such liquids. You'll find they contain lots of Benzene -- which is capable of penetrating human skin and flesh, even if there are no cuts or such. Once inside the body, it has a tendency to attack bone marrow, and shut down blood production (a condition called aplastic anemia). End result can be fatal. Don't handle parts that have been cleaned in that stuff without some really good protection for your hands and arms. I lost a good friend and hot rod buddy this way.
I have the chem-dip from Autozone, which works alright. I noticed it leaves a horrid residue, almost like it starts eating the potmetal that the carb casing is made from. I'd prefer an ultrasonic cleaning system if the option is available.
Who's got that much patience when their a kid I hope you didn't soak it and let it sit, that would prolly ugly it up real good. About 5-15 minutes is all I use it for and it does grey out the cadmium plating the longer it sits on the carb. The only thing I use it for is baked on carbon that solvents wont dissolve. It's a caustic soda detergent. mild sources of Phosphoric acid like in metal prep and mag wheel de-corroders can help with oxidation from sitting outside exposed. I suppose citrus cleaner would be safer all this stuff needs to be watched every minute so it doesn't get away from you. harsh stuff... for de-oxidation..I want to experiment with the soda bath... they take a bucket of tap water, add some baking soda and hook one terminal of a battery charger to the piece to be de-rusted and the other end to a rod down into the water that does not touch the part. one way it removes the corrosion, the other way it eats the part up. I don't know which way is which but It might be dependant on which type of metal your using.
Take note. There is absolutely NO reason you need these harmful chemicals in your home or your shop for any reason. Take a word of advise, they do great harm not only to humans and animals but to your shop environment. Don't ask me how I know.
Ive used Berryman's B9 Chem Dip for many years down here in So AL. I agree that its a stinky mix, but it cuts the dried gas and other sludge pretty good IME. I havent seen it do much for the white gunk that results from water sitting in a carb though. Part 1 of my recent 2 bbl Holley carb rebuild is here; http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showwiki.php?***le=Holley+2210+Carburetor+Rebuild+Part+1 You can find parts 2, 3, 4 and 5 there also. I recommend using whatever cuts the gunk for you. Mike
Could you not run a fairly clean carb through the dishwasher.Like s****e off as much as you can first. Dont let the wife know. Seems to me the heat and soaps they use are pretty tough.
I picked up the tip in Hot Rod mag, it'll eat plastic parts and all your gaskets, so metal only but it does work.
Zep makes the best. I bought two different Gunk/ Berrymans from the parts store. I soaked a 94 in them for a week and nothing happened. I went to my Zep dealer and he hooked me up with some carb/ trans cleaner. I smelled like the stuff you used to buy 20 plus years ago and worked eavel better. It is a couple years old and stills works great. It ate through the can last month so i called the guy and he sent me a new can. Good Luck!
A definitive Plasti Dip ***et for auto individuals: where to get it, how to utilize it and then some. My collection of magnetic stirrer hot plate
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