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700R4 plus Edelbrock Carb...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Deyomatic, Jan 3, 2010.

  1. Deyomatic
    Joined: Apr 17, 2002
    Posts: 3,316

    Deyomatic
    Member
    from CT

    Has anyone used the bracket in the link below? I picked it up when I switched to an Edelbrock carb but haven't gotten everything going, yet. I took it out of the package the other day to stick it onto the intake but wanted to just glance at the directions quickly, since absolutely everyone you talk to says "you'll fry the ****** if the TV cable isn't set correctly..." Well, for something that is so critical that thousands of dollars of transmission can go up in smoke, the directions were little more than a diagram showing me what I just bought. No tips for proper installation or fine tuning or how far back it should be from the linkage, or anything like that.

    I'm just a paranoid stress case and I want to be sure that this and a simple carb stud are all I need for this ****** to function properly. Thanks. Here's a link.


    http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/8036/10002/-1
     
  2. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    tv cable is actually your kick down cable if its not installed correct yes you are rite you will fry the clutches inside the trans .. premature shifting or not shifting at the correct speed and or rpm...do it right save ya self the head ache of swapping a transmision
     
  3. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 8,662

    Special Ed
    Member

  4. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 6,068

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    All that does is let you hook the TV cable up. It may or may not work properly, carb and trans I mean, some say you need to simulate the "throw" or mechanics of a stock carb that the trans came off of.
     
  5. reverb2000
    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 441

    reverb2000
    Member
    from Houston TX

    with the car off, open the carb all the way, and pull the tv cable tight. Make sure at full throttle, the cable has nothing left. Done.
     
  6. panic
    Joined: Jan 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,450

    panic

  7. 51NINETYEIGHT
    Joined: Jul 29, 2008
    Posts: 284

    51NINETYEIGHT
    BANNED

  8. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 6,068

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    Panic, That was my point ................. just didn't have the vocabulary!
    Some carb instructions say "not for overdrive ******'s"
    There's a company in AZ? that makes a bracket that bolts to your carb to simulate this. I have many cars on the road without this device and it seems all is well as long as you have it adjust properly. I also have a friend that could not get his ****** to shift properly till he installed one, go figure!
     
  9. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 8,662

    Special Ed
    Member

    Check out the link in post #3. It is ALL there!
     
  10. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

  11. Deyomatic
    Joined: Apr 17, 2002
    Posts: 3,316

    Deyomatic
    Member
    from CT

    Cool. That's how I always did it with the Holley, but I thought the bracket had something to do with setting up the appropriate geometry of the cable. That link that TotallyCustom posted is great.
     
  12. MarkzRodz
    Joined: Sep 12, 2009
    Posts: 533

    MarkzRodz
    BANNED

    I think the basic rule is pull the cable all the way out (pinching the ****on) and match it with the throttle all the way open.Then set the mounting position. That way you don't lose any internal pressure,,especially under load.
     
  13. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 6,068

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    DeuceRoadster, that was the one I was thinking of, thanks for the link........
    I am no ****** guy but I think most are missing the point, it's not only the adjustment but the "ratio" of the pull also.
     
  14. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 3,332

    sdluck
    Member

    Carb has to have the proper swing or arc for the trans to work correctly
     
  15. gotwood
    Joined: Apr 6, 2007
    Posts: 264

    gotwood
    Member
    from NYC

    If you notice the Pheonix deal is using a Lokar style cable. The adjustability of the cable is the key not just the bracket. The GM set up is meant to be used on exactly what GM designed it for. It clicks to the exact length.

    The Lokar or whatever other they make that is adjustable will be your easiest route. The bracket locates the cable. You them adjust the cable at full extension and then go back and fourth to at rest to then again at full throttle extension. Takes maybe 2 or 3 tries but not that hard. I think the burned up deals are when someone takes a GM cable and just bolts it on anything.


    Good luck....adjusting lock up is your next challenge.
     
  16. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 8,662

    Special Ed
    Member

    The correct bracket will give you the correct geometry to keep the pressure response in the "ideal" range. EVERTHING is described in that link...seriously! There is page after page of technical information in it. These guys ONLY do 700r4's and have for over twenty-five years.
     
  17. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,988

    brokenspoke
    Member

    Checkk out (Bowtie Overdrives ) I used their bracket
     
  18. I also used the Bowtie Overdrive 700r4 carb linkage kie, it rocked and the instructions were very detailed as to how to obtain proper pressure for long trans life. Mine runs 12.90s for over 5 years of daily driving. Check them out.
     

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