I know this subject comes up from time to time. A friend sent me this article and I thought you guys might be interested. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ Brick
Haven't finished the article yet, but is looking real good! Thanks! Our cars certainly have a lot of metal. This process may prove it's worth for some of us.
Thanks for that article. Really informative and thorough. Lots of work to test all that sound deadner. Looks like Home depot stuff is out and Second Skin Damplifier or Damplifier Pro are the winners and best to use. Dynamat Xtreme is close second.
Great article. I wish he would have covered the hot/cold insulating qualities as well. I'm thinking of using two kinds together... the cheaper asphalt stuff on the floor and the lighter Second Skin/ butyl type for the roof and sides.
my dad bought the fat mat brand asphalt stuff and its horrible. the aluminum top came apart from the bottom, and the bottom did not stick to the car after a week. i bought the eDead v1se. it, on the other hand, is wonderful. make sure you clean the metal first. ...just my expierence....
You're welcome. No I haven't moved just yet. Just over a week to go here then I'll be heading west. Brick
One word..Lizardskin. Solves all your problems...not cheap, but the best...kills heat, deadens sound, insulates...sprays on, cleans up with water. Is not thick like some of the mats, sprays on to a credit card thickness...does ten-twenty times what those others claim. They didn't test that did they...??? I'd recommend that over ANYTHING in that report...I've used it on three cars so far...will swear by it...it works. R-
My guess is that's because the minimum buy-in for Lizard skin is not cheap and not because the guy wouldn't have liked testing it. Your feedback is at least as valuable and maybe more so than any quasi-scientific testing or manufacturer hype. Do you generally use just the ceramic coating or both?
I use the ceramic...I buy it from from my local hot rod store/supply, one pail at a time...why would a buy-in be needed to test it? El Polacko doesn't like it...that's why he posted his "thots"...but, I swear by it...PM him and ask why...and PM me if you'd like... R-
Nah I'll be glad to take your word for it. Do you have to use their special spray gun to apply the stuff or can an ordinary one be adapted?
Roger, why do you have to pull cheap **** like this? Your better than that. I made my post before I saw your post but when I hit the submit ****on yours came up before mine. Just timing and nothing else. First off I didn't even mention Lizard Skin here and it wasn't part of this particular test. Kind of a moot point, do you think? Just for the sake of argument I would love to see an independent test such as the one conducted by this guy who conducted this test. I don't take this as a cop out or any avoidance of percived comp***ion to the butyl mat sound deadeners. As for my thoughts on it, I have used it, tested it and don't see a huge advantage over tradional heat barrier methods. Certainly not ten-twenty times what those others claim. In fact, an impromptu test I devised with a regular heat gun, a sheet of 16 gauge steel and some Lizard skin, I coated half of the sheet. After allowing it to cure for more than 24 hours I applied the heat gun to the coated side simulating an automotive firewall situation. The coated side oposite of the heat gun rose to 240 Degrees using my Raytec ifrared thermometer in less than five minutes! For a control I flipped the panel around and did the same test, only 180 Degrees in five minutes. Thinking this was a fluke I repeated the test a few days in a row all with similar results. I added extra material (past recomeneded thickness) to the panel with only slightly better results. Just holding my hand over the panel would confirm this. At the request of a customer, I insulated his car (36 Ford 5window coupe) with six gallons of Lizard Skin. After it cured I did a few "knock" tests to the panels. It did have a dampening effect but nowhere near as expected. After discussing this with the customer we applied a layer of Damplifier Pro to most of the body panels for a truly insulated ride. Road testing earlier this year showed both materials did keep the car cool inside. Likewise I have used spray on sound deadener products from Second Skin Audio and from Dynamic Controls. The inside of the hood of my green truck is sprayed with Dynamic Controls product. The dampening effect is there but minimally so. I could not tell a difference in sound level or panel rattle with or without the coating. I have had slightly better results with Second Skin Audio products but only recomend them for cases like the inside of doors or trunklids where access to apply the sheet material is not possible. Want to keep heat out of your car? I have a much cheaper and effective solution as close as your local hardware store. Water heater blankets are about $18.00, Aluminum Foil tape is about $8.00 a roll. I was able to buy a blanket that had Mylar on one side and quilted aluminum foil on the other with a spun fibergl*** filler. I cut the blanket to the shape of the floor boards, toe boards and trans tunnel under the car. Close the edges up with the foil tape to prevent moisture from getting into the blanket and then Pop Rivet the blanket foil side down to the bottom of those panels. This kills more heat cheaper than any spray on or roll on material on the market! Keep the heat from getting in is a much better insulation strategy than trying to control it once it has penetrated the floor.
hmm...their pricing for dynamat extreme is rediculous. I get 36 sq ft for $150 shipped from onlinecarstereo.com
man, you know your ****. i know you know how to keep the heat out. i've been to your shop (in phoenix) on a 118 degree day! see you at DOTD? Jason.
I have used a combination of Lizard Skin two coats, full coverage, with dynamat extreme cut into strips 3 to 4 inches wide and have been very happy with it. I also tried the infrared temperature trick and found the temp of the floorboards to be high according to the gun. But in real world driving, crusing the fairgrounds at NSRA Milwaukee in a black 36 tudor for 20 minutes in 95 plus degrees, that the Lizard Skin worked quite well. To me this combination is the best of both worlds. The skin totally seals the inside of the car and the Dynamat takes the resonance out of the panels, with only about 50% coverage. Just my experience.
Quoting from the first page of sounddeadenershowdown.com: "the Dynamat Xtreme product was the pioneer in the Butyl based sound damping field." It was used in high-end audio long before that. Speaker manufacturers were using it on the inside walls of enclosures to damp resonance back in the late 1970s. It works, but not as well as a mixture of tar and sand. "This is not laboratory level testing. I make no claims of precision at all. I also made no attempt to determine the relative effectiveness of the products when properly installed." Guess I don't need to read any more then. I'd consider using Line-X spray-on bed liner inside a car's body and doors, and on the insides of the fenders. http://goline-x.com/other_uses.shtml Dave http://www.roadsters.com/
sorry to bring up an old post, but does anyone have a copy of the original comparison. The webpage here has changed since the test was first uploaded, andhe author has changed tac because he's selling his own product now. (?)
I used Peel n Seal from Lowes. I like it. I also got some foam insulation from a Hamb Alliance member, in TX I think, and installed it on top. YOu could easily double up the Peel n Seal and have weeks worth of beer money left over, compared to the prices of the other stuff. Heck, I used the protective wrap from the roll of aluminized foam to do the entire floor in my truck without even getting into the main roll.
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