SBC into '39 Ford

OK guy’s I need some help. I’m dropping in a 350 sbc in my ‘39 Ford Standard. I’m keeping the stock top loader transmission and everything seems to be going smooth. Now the question, what’s the best way to go with a radiator. At this time it’s has a Walker in it set up for the old flathead. But I thinking I may have problems with the new Chevy engine fan clearance. Maybe one of you may know of a past thread on this subject. Any help would be thankfull, Hot LZ.
Ps One more thing, do I have to use a 168 tooth flywheel? Thanks again

 

I have a 39 standard 350/c4 with stock firewall.
I have a walker radiator, with air conditioning, and a good mechanical fan and walker shrowd.
I have an hei distributor, and moved the radiator as far forward and lowered it all i could to get it all to work.
Im at work now and out of time. If you need anything else let me know.

 

Thanks Greg, I'm not running a/c, not sure if that would make any difference. But I may have to resort in the set up that you used, that is, lowering the radiator and moving it as far forward as posable.
Thanks again for the tip, Hot LZ
Ps. Any one out there that can give me any avice on the flywheel?

 

It depends what starter you are using. That determins the number of teeth.

 

Thanks Hyway Hauler, but at this time I havent found a flywheel for the small block.
Hot LZ

 

I picked up a 168 tooth truck flywheel, now I need a clutch disk (39 ford) and a presser plate (350 chevy). Any one know of a good supplier that can help me out.
Thanks

 

Get a copy of HOT ROD DELUXE May 2009 before you buy a clutch and disk and it will help you alot.

 

LZ,
I removed the flathead in my 40 and put in a SBC and found the best solution for me (I get antsy about overheating!!!) was to talk to C&R Racing (http://crracing.com/about_cr.shtml) and they knew exactly what I needed. A piece of art, not all that expensive and I can forget about getting hot. No A/C for me and I run the stock three-speed on the column with a Wilcap adapter.

Give 'em hell,
E

 

Your radiator will work just fine. You can either cap off the unused outlets or take it to a radiator shop and have them removed. My 36 sedan used an original radiator with rubber caps clamped on the unused outlets...crude but effective.

You will need to use the old early "short" water pump and pulleys for radiator fan clearance. Remember the adapter was designed to use with the parts that were available in the early 60s. Fortunately those parts still bolt on to your newer engine. You will have to use an electric fuel pump due to the crossmember clearance. I have notched and boxed the crossmember but the electric is an easy out.



You will need a 50 Mercury clutch as seen here. The Merc clutch has the 6 mounting holes evenly spaced around the PP (easy to identify) that will bolt right up to the early Chevy flywheel. A Ford clutch has 6 bolts but they are arranged in 3 groups of 2. The disc is just an early Ford disc to match the Ford trans splines. This adapter uses the old 3 bolt starter and so it requires the early flywheel. You will need to drill out a Chevy pilot bushing for the larger Ford pilot shaft or get one from Summit. Use the standard Ford throw out bearing.

You can complicate things but remember, this was a very popular bolt in swap that was engineered to work with readily available parts at that time.

 

I have a 47 with a sbc. the rad in my car is for a cchrysler 318. fits and cools great. running a mechanical fan and no shroud and still cools well. I plan to put in an electric fan though.

 

GEEZ, tommy, great info!!!

 

Thanks guys, I believe now I’m on the right track. And Tommy you’re the man, your post helped me a lot.
Thanks again, Hot LZ

 

I have a new clutch and pressure plate that I took out of my 48 ford coupe with a 350 and the original 3 speed if your interested. I drove it about 50 miles and now I have the car tore apart to put an automatic in it.
PM me if your interested.
Todd

 

Re:48flyer I've already located a clutch, presser plat and adapter. The top lodder I've got now is in excelent shape. Thanks anyway, Hot LZ

 

Ok, everything’s seems to be going smooth on the '39 Ford, clutch, flywheel, adapter, motor mounts, etc. I have the 350 installed but now it looks like the exhaust header(s) may be a problem. I tied some late model Corvette headers but the driver side just looks like it would be too sharp of a bend to clear the steering box. Are there any over the counter one’s I may be able to buy or am I going to have to get someone to make these up?
Also, I need of an alternator bracket that I can get. 1979 - 350 sbc.
This old (new) guy needs all the help he can get. Thanks. everyone for all the input you’ve given me so far.
Hot L.Z.

 

When I had a SBC in my 40 Ford business coupe ... I used a Alan Grove bracket. His part number #200L



Go here for his web page ...

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/Small_Block_Short_Pump.htm

For exhaust I used a set of 55/56 V8 Chevrolet exhaust manifolds ... but they MAY be too small for a good 350 ( I had a 283 bored .060 ).



I used two of the manifolds without the generator bracket ... but IF you wanted to ... you could use one of them to mount the alternator

 

Seems like early 70's Chevy pu, p*** side used on drivers side directs it to front of steering box. I still see a few at swap meets.

 

If you use Ch***is Engineering's front mounts, a stock mechanical fuel pump will clear your crossmember just barely. Henrietta the '38 Ford pickup has a 307 with CE mounts and mechanical fuel pump with no modification to stock crossmember. A p***enger side exhaust manifold from a '67-'72 Chevy/GMC pickup with small block V8 will get you around the steering box. It's a little tight but it works. Be sure that the guy who builds your exhaust system checks to see that the pitman arm can travel its full arc without hitting exhaust pipes.

 

I did the 200L alt bracket and the truck p*** exhaust on the driver side.

 

The manifold you pictured looks like it is for the driver's side on the aforementioned Chevy truck. The p***enger side is a mirror image.

 

Speedway's appear to dump straight down. That might help you out.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/25-Inch-Corvette-Style-Exhaust-Manifolds,9133.html

 

67-72 p***. side truck manifold.

 

Use straight dumps, and call Weedetrs, you can google them, they sell pipes pre bent for a sbc in a 35-40 ch***is with straight dump manifolds, cost about $80 for the pair, they take you to about the middle of the floor, and then you can hook the rest of the pipes up from there, I have them on my 36 with a sbc and a vega box.

Alt try alan grove for brackets.

 

Ford ’39 standard.
Well it looks like I may have some of the problems out of the way, but now I’m faced with the cooling department. I’m using a Walker radiator that was set up for the old flathead and plan to have one top and one bottom port block off. Now trying to figure out the best way for the bottom hose to run with the motor mounts I’m using, as there’s not that much room to work with. Couple of sharp bends. Is there something I’m missing? And then there’s the top port to deal with.
I wouldn’t be at this stage in the game now if I hadn’t of gotten all the help from you guy’s. You’re the best! Thank you.
Hot-LZ

 

Thanks guy's for the input on the header problem that I had and think is fixed. Anyone out there that can give me some advice on the radiator hose that I maybe able to use? Top and bottom. Thanks again, Hot LZ

 

I used the stock Gates 55-57 lower hose on my 40 with 350 buckled up to original transmission. It should be in stock at your local auto parts store as a universal but formed hose to fit maybe 55-60 or something like that.

All but the most cramped and twisted installs can be hosed with factory style formed hoses from Gates and the weird ones with a pipe bend or straight between two bent hoses. Just takes patience, a good wire bend mockup, neck dimensions, and a good parts man who will let you do the search work in the back.

Nothing is more gross that those "universal" heavy equipment/diesel truck corrugated hoses on a hot rod or custom or any car enthusiast's vehicles.

 

Thanks Pasadenahotrod,
Looked on Napa’s web site and I think I may have spotted one or two for a ’57 Chevy that may work. Just have to get to Napa’s now and maybe the parts guy will let me look around.
I made up a mock-up for the botom hose out of some old 1” plastic tubing, just applied a little heat for the bends, its worth a shot.
Again thanks to you and all the other guy for all the help, I wouldn’t be where I’m at now, but I know I’ve still got a way’s to go.
Hot LZ

 

you could go the 62-67 nova fenderwell header route

 

On my 40 Ford coupe with a 283, I used a Gates 20225 hose and trimed off what I did not need.

 

I swear Deuce Roadster has saved pics & part numbers on everything he's ever built.

Thankfully.

JH