Just for future refrence in case anybody else has the same question later, the radiator cooled fine it spit water in the overflow and sucked it up latter no problem. Well until I got excited about finaly getting my driveshaft and totaly forgot about the rad. support coming from the cowl, untill my rad. went into my fan. But no worries with the help from a fellow hamb member found a new rad. and fan and its back on the road, and even got a new wall hanger out of it.
That's a 55 studebaker radiator support, narrowed 7", I was able to mount the radiator to it, and the shell also. I narrowed it enough to fit inside the frame rails and added some mounting points to it and bolted it to the inside of the frame rails, then my headlight mounts slide through the stock wire holes and mount to the support also.
Since you are getting different advice, some fucked up, some good, I'll simply cut to the chase with what REALLY WORKS. I've done it a few times............... If you have a radiator that you plan to use but it needs to be turned sideways, it will work. On any radiator, no matter what way it flows, there are two tanks. Water flows from one tank through the cores to the other tank. When you modify it make sure that the inlet hose connection and the outlet hose connection are not in the same tank. Mark where you want the filler neck moved to, if it isn't on the top. Then mark where you want the bottom hose connection moved to. Then mark where you want the top hose connection moved to. The bottom hose goes to the inlet of the water pump. The top hose from the thermostat housing goes to the top hose connection on the ratiator. The last one I had modified it cost a hundred bucks to have the filler neck and both hose connections moved. Sometimes you don't have to move them all. Keep on keepin' on.
While we're at it, you can always find a nice formed radiator hose, even if you have to use 2 pieces with an intermediate tube connection that fits well at your local auto parts store. You'll need a wire pattern and the end sizes then just pick and choose the hopse from their selection or illustrated catalog. Stop using those ugly wire-reinforced industrial engine "flex" hoses that belong on a front end loader not a hotrod.
Trad27, looks like it should work. I know a guy, built many a rod through the years... used a ford pickup radiator, turned it on its side. always worked good don't know what year, he seemed to think it was some kind of trade secret, real smug about it ... what ever... I get a kick out of the guys and their mustang radiators, even had guys look at mine and tell me i sould have used a mustang!!!! thats BS, mine fits the top and i use the same filler hole in the shell!!! $35 and trim the mounts!!! never had a problem....
Great effort, here's a few hints that worked for me. keep the inline cap higher,if u can, than the top tank, and use 12-16 lb. cap. dont over fill , it will spew out. use an overflow tank somewhere, and USE a shroud to trap and pull air!!! this last one is the most important. And electric fans look terrible on Hot Rods!!!!! I Live in Sac and my small mopar NEVER overheats even in 100 degree weather in rush hour traffic with these small details ..good luck.. "Racedad".
The Brassworks still has Street Rod Radiators at a discount for HAMB members. There are (3) 28-29 Fords and (1) 30-31 Ford and (2) 32 Fords and (1) 33 Chevy. The contact information is: www.thebrassworks.net or tel: 805-239-2501
A good friend of mine has run a 70s mopar radiator on his 27 T with a 3/4 soup job willys 4 banger for eight years now , no shroud ,four blade fan never overheats !
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