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Converting my SBC 283 to a 327 what do I need to do.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fiftyv8, Jan 10, 2010.

  1. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,401

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    I have a 283 and have just recently acquired a 327 crank shaft.
    What else do I need to build this engine to a 327?

    It is an early engine with no bolt holes in the front edge of the heads and the heads have the single up side down Vee shape.
     
  2. kelgar50
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 180

    kelgar50
    Member
    from socal

    Get a different block...the 327 shares the same bore as a 350 4" where the 283 has a 3.875" bore.I do not think you can safely bore that block to 4".
    You can put the 327 crank in a 283 block as along as it is the small journal crank which would make it a 307.
     
  3. Some of the old 283 blocks will take a .125 overbore but you'll have to have it sonic tested to see for sure. We used to do it all the time when turning 283s into 301s. You'll also need to buy 327 pistons. It can be done but make sure the block will take it and that the crank is a small journal crank.
     
  4. maniac
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 539

    maniac
    Member




    I think you can bore it to 4" safely
     
  5. scrape
    Joined: Sep 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,130

    scrape
    Member

    i think you might have to cut the counter weights on the 327 crant to fit in the 283 block....
     
  6. scrape
    Joined: Sep 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,130

    scrape
    Member

  7. Torkwrench
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 2,730

    Torkwrench
    Member

    Not all 283 blocks will take a 327 crank. 1962 and newer blocks will. Look at the bottom of the cylinders, (inside the crankcase), if the block is dished in this area the 327 crank will fit without any problems, (if it is a small journal crank). 1961 and earlier blocks won't work, because the 327 counterweights won't clear the bottom of the block. I've read that turning down the counter weights on the 327 crank will cause balancing problems.
     
  8. bobkatrods
    Joined: Sep 22, 2008
    Posts: 779

    bobkatrods
    Member
    from aledo tx

    i agree with nhbandit, we used to make 301 cubic inches all the time, 60 and earlier blocks are thicker and no problem, 61 up blocks are thinner and a little touchier on big bore, ihave run the later block with 301 inches some cracked some did not
     
  9. hotrodtim
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 701

    hotrodtim
    Member

    I would not waist my time. you are not gaining anything by doing that. If you have a large journal crank Find a 350 block. They are cheap and you can find one anywhere.
     
  10. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    Or get a block that isn't maxed out at 4" to start with, a cheapie crank from a 307 and voila, 327 for low dough. Then you can spend money where it counts.... better heads.
     
  11. scrape
    Joined: Sep 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,130

    scrape
    Member

    you are if he wants a 327....
     
  12. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    327 and 350 shared blocks, with the 302 also. Don't waste your money on a "327" block unless you are going for a numbers matching resto. get a 2 bolt main 350, splay the caps, and spend your money on heads that will make it worth your while.

    http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

    3970010....302.....69....4...Z-28 Camaro
    3970010....327.....69....2...Trucks and industrial
    3970010....350...69-80...2 or 4
    </pre>
     
  13. well said 53 sled.
     
  14. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,401

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Boy that is a lot of opinions to take in.
    I guess I will flip the engine while it is still on the stand and take a look at the journals etc and check year numbers.

    Thanks so far anything else will still be appreciated.

    Since I am a newbie to this kind of work, I assume I need to be looking for a cam, rods and pistons????

    I am mostly just chasing a few extra cubic inches without going overboard on a trick build.
    Extra torque would be the best out come for me.
     
  15. Post the casting numbers off the block & the crank & we can tell you what you have. The early small journal cranks used rods with smaller rod bolts as well. Something else to consider. Getting a 4 bolt main 350 block would be a better starting point if you're planning on any kind of decent power although we did get some good power out of the older stuff, they are weaker.
     
  16. Fast55097
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 114

    Fast55097
    Member
    from S.A. TX

    327s are great motors. I like them better than any other mild small block. They are the best high mileage cruiser in my opinion. I think 283s are a bit torqueless and 350s seem to sip a little more fuel. I would agree with the recomendation to just build one out of a 307 crank and a 350. trade or sell that 283 block. it's more trouble than it's worth to ruin it by boring it to the point of a thin walled hot running motor, when for less trouble you could have just built a cooler running large journal version for a street car. if your goin to build a high revving drag race only, block filler job, then just do your thing. good luck. btw the 283's you can overbore are from 59 to 62.

    Henry
     
  17. draggin'GTO
    Joined: Jul 7, 2003
    Posts: 1,795

    draggin'GTO
    Member

    The early 327 small-journal blocks (2.30") do not interchange with the 350 blocks which are all large-journal (2.45").

    Only the '68 327 blocks are large-journal like the 350. The early '67 302s are small journal 2-bolt main, later ones are large-journal 4-bolt main.

    I would suggest running the small-journal 327 crank in your 283 block and boring it .060 to get a 316-inch engine. All 283 blocks are small-journal. Your piston choice may be limited to cast oversize 307 pistons.

    The later 283 blocks will accept the 327 crank without any issues. When the first 327s were being offered back in '62 the crankcase area on the 283s also shared the same inside dimensions as the 327.
     
  18. SLAMIT
    Joined: Sep 9, 2002
    Posts: 929

    SLAMIT
    Member

    sell all that stuff off and find a nice 327 or 350 to start with. yep its been done but with way less effort you get way more in the power and ease end of things. or for the same money to build what you were thinking you could buy a nice 383 rotating assembly and go to town and have a shit ton of bottom end and nice firm top end power.

    just my .02
     
  19. my advice: if you want a 283 build what you have , if you want a 327 get a 327..if you want a 350...well you can see where this is going

    boring 283's to 4" is risky business. yeah, some blocks are better than others , but with 40+ years of corrosion who knows
     
  20. burnout2614
    Joined: Sep 21, 2009
    Posts: 612

    burnout2614
    Member

    all points above are correct. I LOVE small journal chevs, swapping between different cubic inch engines can be a major undertaking though. I say keep the 283 crank, bore it .040, use a good (not necessarily expensive) cam, port the heads and run the urine out of it.
     
  21. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,401

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Well the advice is sinking in slowly and I am starting to sway towards get what I need from the start rather than trying to make something out of what I dont have.
    Mostly because I am not so much of an engine guy to start with.
    Any way here is what I have which will at least let me know where I stand for now.
     

    Attached Files:

  22. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,401

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Here are the rest of the pic's that may assist in any detailed info about this engine.

    Note the hump on the front of each head!!!

    I was told this engine came out of an early Pontiac, but who knows???
     

    Attached Files:

  23. Brad54
    Joined: Apr 15, 2004
    Posts: 6,021

    Brad54
    Member
    from Atl Ga

    Is that intake aluminum?
    I've also never seen valve covers like that--stamped, but with no "Chevrolet" script across them.

    -Brad
     
  24. Buzzard II
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 354

    Buzzard II
    Member

    If you NEED more cubic inches get a 350. You can still find them in junk yards, but they're becoming scarce too. If you don't really need more inches, just rebuild the 283. Go .020 or .030 over, add some aftermarket hydraulic cam-Crane is good, 4 barrel on alum intake-carter afb is good or multi carbs and you got a neat little engine that will get you where you're going, and sound and look good. The early engines came thru with steel cranks, but even the cast crank later engines are good. Besides, at least in my area, (northern NJ), 283 engines are acquiring an "old engine status" and are considered neat to have!:)
     
  25. Buzzard II
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 354

    Buzzard II
    Member

    PS-It was easy enough to put a chevy engine in a lemans-the frame is pretty much the same as a chevelle. Just change the engine braces on the front cross member to chevelle, and the engine goes right in. Done it many times to build a "sleeper" street machine back in the 60"s. Holes were already drilled in crossmember-easy bolt in!:)
     
  26. shmoozo
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 671

    shmoozo
    Member
    from Media, PA

    All this trouble for a 327?

    Bah!

    Drop a 350 into the car, dress it up to look like a 327, and put 327 badges on the fenders.

    :cool:
     
  27. Commish
    Joined: Jan 9, 2010
    Posts: 379

    Commish
    Member
    from NW Ok

    Just going from memory here, but from the valve cover holes being offset, and not straight across from each other I would say you probably have a 265 there.
     
  28. Pitbullgoingpostal
    Joined: Jan 2, 2009
    Posts: 450

    Pitbullgoingpostal
    Member

    They are early 265 and I think 283. I have a set of them with the offset holes like that. That appears to be a nice, fairly complete, early engine. I would rebuild it like it is (regardless of cid.) and be proud of it.
     
  29. 454_4_ON_THE_FLOOR
    Joined: Feb 15, 2009
    Posts: 179

    454_4_ON_THE_FLOOR
    Member
    from Selden, TX

    I have definitely heard of a 283 being bored up to at least .120, but like they said it depends on the block so get it checked.
     
  30. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,401

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Intake manifold is cast iron or at least not aluminum.

    Valve covers are as it came.

    Iam starting to think this engine is a very early one.
    No reason, just a hunch from what I am starting to hear.
     

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