1. If I installed my ignition condenser in the wrong spot (on the coil in place of the radio noise condenser) and then installed it in the correct spot in the distributor could I have ruined it by driving it around once in the wrong spot? My car was driving fine for 3 days now it's back to running ****py like it was before the new condenser. 2. How many of you have said screw this and bought a Pertronix Ignitor system for your stock distributor? And if so how do you like it? Thanks!!
Sorry for the confusion. Yes, I left the old one in and installed a new one in the wrong spot. Then realized what I did (im a rookie) and changed the new one to the correct spot and the car ran fine for about 3 days now it's back to surging/bucking under load when it drops rpm when changing to 2nd gear. I am not familiar with points at all but that is the Only thing left in the distributor that I have not changed. Only because I am not sure how to properly adjust it once it's installed?
With the current lack of quality condensers, it is not unusual to get a bad one right out of the box. I buy three every time I purchase a new ignition set. Many people opt for the electronic replacements due to this problem.
When I buy a new condenser, I take along a continuity tester and test the condenser before buying it. If it has continuity, it is good, if not, then it is bad and I ask for another one. Condensers are very fragile, you cannot drop it on the ground or slam it on the counter at the parts store.
I have a continuity tester, i'll check it out. How about the points... I know they are easy to install. What about to adjust?
I would go to the library and ask for a Chiltons repair manual. They will have it at the main downtown library and can send it to your local branch. This way you can see what it takes to do. Basicly, rotate the engine until the old set of points opens wide while riding one of the lobes of the distributor shaft. Measure the gap with a set of feeler gauges. Remove the old set of points, install the new set, don't forget to add the lubricant behind the follower as described in the directions. Notice one screw secures the points, the other opens and closes them to the gap you want. Once you have the gap set, lock down the set screw, double check the gap. If okay, re***emble the rotor and cap, hook up a dwell meter, and fire it up. Depending on the engine, SBC the dwell is between 28 and 32 degrees. If the gap is correct, then your dwell, length of time the points are closed, is correct.
Adjusting points is not difficult. There are two screws, turning one screw open or closes the points gap, the other screw locks it down once adjusted. When the distributer shaft turns, there is a cam that opens and closes the points. To check the gap, the shaft needs to be on the high part of the cam lobe (points fully open). You may have to bump the engine over a couple of times to get the dizzy shaft in the right spot (high part of the cam). Check for proper gap with a feeler gauge. Loosen the lock down screw, then turn the adjustment screw to the proper gap. Tighten the lockdown screw and recheck your points gap. Done. What kind of car is it? There may be a factory shop manual online.
There's a good picture here that shows everything. It's a 235 chevy distributor. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955truck2/55ctsm06y41.htm
I think that this is the guy with a 390 Cadillac, in which case it's got the point set that's adjustable with an allen wrench through the window in the distributor cap.
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