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How can I it this steering wheel on my Roadster??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rob Paul, Jan 13, 2010.

  1. Rob Paul
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,275

    Rob Paul
    Member

    I have a 37 Nash Steering wheel and center cap. It is splined, and measures 3/4" inside. I dont have the shaft from the car to help me make the steering shaft for this Roadster. Not sure what a donor shaft would be. I didnt count the splines.

    Im using a 38 Ford column cut off on the bottom with a bushing for a 3/4" steering shaft. A u-joint will connect the steering shaft to the 38 cross steer box.

    Basically I need to make the steering shaft that fits in the column. Whats the best way to attach the wheel to my 3/4" shaft??? The body of the wheel is pot metal. Just looking for ideas.

    Thanks....the wheel and the car

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. if you could find the upper part of the original Nash inner shaft you could adapt it to the ford shaft. or maybe you could accurately measure the size and spline count of the Nash wheel...then maybe someone could suggest something. you say it's 3/4"...Borgeson has shafts that are 3/4- 36 spline

    i wouldn't modify your wheel unless it's the last option
     
  3. Rob Paul
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,275

    Rob Paul
    Member

    Im going to count the splines, and see what might match. Im sure someone knows what might fit??? maybe??
     
  4. 62rebel
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 3,233

    62rebel
    Member

    maybe somebody here knows who made the steering box for Nash, and what else might have used the same box? i don't think Nash would have insisted on having a shaft size/profile all to themselves; with a list of possibles maybe a source could be spotted. or better yet, a HAMBer has a parts Nash lying around?
    i have to agree that modifying the wheel is a big NO. pot metal hub is kinda iffy in my book already.... boring and resplining it might be asking for trouble. is it pot metal all the way through, no steel in the hub area, or attached to the spokes? hard to tell, i know. cool looking piece, and i can see why you want to use it.
     
  5. ugotpk
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 503

    ugotpk
    Member

    I would mill a taper into it. then cut a keyway. I did it to the truck you see here. See below
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2010
  6. ugotpk
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 503

    ugotpk
    Member

  7. Hotrod1932
    Joined: Jan 20, 2007
    Posts: 227

    Hotrod1932
    Member
    from Oregon

    Won't work give it to me...
     
  8. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    Id take it the bone yard and see if it fits on anything...........
     
  9. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,358

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    looks like the technical answers have been applied so I'll give the smart one--big drill bit and jb weld :)
     
  10. nutajunka
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,464

    nutajunka

    I think the early 50's ply., dodge, chry., had the larger splines.
     
  11. I know my 55 DeSoto and 61 Pontiac does...
     
  12. wally55
    Joined: Jan 25, 2009
    Posts: 97

    wally55
    Member

    Rob check with Dave at Spence industries,he had a bunch of desoto parts.Good Luck
     
  13. Rob Paul
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,275

    Rob Paul
    Member

    OK I counted the splines on this wheel. 3/4" with 41 splines.

    Anyone know what else might share this count??

    Rob
     
  14. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,676

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Random guess but I have an early Volvo wheel that might be close - I'll have to look later.
     
  15. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    How about :
    Machine an internal taper, and broach a keyway, to use an early Ford column.
     
  16. Rob Paul
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,275

    Rob Paul
    Member


    I have considered this. It would have to be tapered larger than early Ford, because it is a 3/4" hole already. The tapered keyway is on my mind, I just hate to spend that much time, when I know there is a donor part I can use, and not alter the wheel at all.
     
  17. 41fastback
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 361

    41fastback
    Member

    I have a early 50's Ford F100 truck column and wheel and I counted 40 splines (I could have missed one, but recount yours). The shaft is 3/4". Might work for you.
     
  18. Da' Bomb
    Joined: Apr 8, 2005
    Posts: 438

    Da' Bomb
    Member

    It's not a big deal to cut the splines on a steering shaft...They're just 90 degree splines. Send me a PM if you want a shaft machined. I work for beer, that's about an 18 pack job plus material and shipping.
    Pat
     
  19. Cliffy
    Joined: Oct 21, 2001
    Posts: 2,127

    Cliffy
    Member

    Come on.....DUCK TAPE!
     
  20. neonloverrob
    Joined: Jan 25, 2009
    Posts: 560

    neonloverrob
    Member
    from newton, ks

    Can't beat that deal with a stick!:D
     
  21. Hot Turkey
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 1,239

    Hot Turkey
    Member

    I dont know about the wheel but I love the roadster!
     
  22. Rob Paul
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,275

    Rob Paul
    Member

    Im getting this thing together, and Im still not sure what to do with the steering wheel. Any ideas, or know of any other makes with a 41 spline shaft??

    Thanks, Rob
     
  23. silversink
    Joined: May 3, 2008
    Posts: 916

    silversink
    Member

    If you would have taken Bombs offer you would be done by now.-----Procrastination
     
  24. Halfdozen
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 633

    Halfdozen
    Member

    Da' Bomb's offer is the best route.
    You'll probably find there's a steel insert cast into the wheel hub that's splined, I can't imagine anybody trusting splines cut into zinc pot metal.

    Another approach might be to drill the centre of the wheel to remove the splines, ream to make the hole round, then machine the diameter of the steering shaft to be a light press fit. Then drill and tap the shaft/ hub joint in line with the shaft for one or two set screws, so that the set screws fall half in the wheel hub and half in the shaft. I've used this approach a bunch of times on various machine ***emblies, works well if you have the room.
     

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