Working on straightening a rough rear roof and window section for my 5 window this evening. Had to stop, need to get some input on the upper curve. have posted a picture. The top had some 3 timbers fall on it, when a shed collapsed on the car. I have straightened the damaged areas but the upper window opening does not seem right. At the upper corners of the back window opening, on tha face of panel the opening curves inward about 1/8 to 1/4 toward the front of the car. This is hard to discribe I would have thought than when this was stamped it would be flat or curve slightly outward. I can't find a picture on the web that shows this type of curvature so I fear this is still damage from the timbers. Also is can I get the window opening measuremetn vertically. I have info that this is suppose to be 8 7/8 mine is 8 5/8. Thanks for the help I have posted a picture.
You might buy a wood kit and make the top fit the wood. I actually made my wood kit by laminating marine plywood strips. I get myself into jobs that I don't need but someone should make some poster board templates and send them to you. Anybody close to the OP that has a 5W?
Thanks for the help, tingeezer-hotrodprimer-Andy. After working on it all afternoon It's still not right but much closer. The window not measures 8 3/4. I think the wood kit is the only way I will get it right. Anyone have a pattern? Thanks Mike
Well here's what it looks like after an afternoon of work. Better but still not right , can't get it flat at the top of the window,and across the top of the opening. The curve starts at about an inch below the top if the opening. I can find multiple pictures of a rear window froma sedan and they look different, some flat some slightly curved like mine. Anyone else delt withe this before? Mike
Have you tried to place a piece of gl*** or plywood cut to shape to see how it sits? If the gl*** isn't flat the body is out.
i dont know if it is so but maby the roof on the side of the window is curved out often when the metal is moved in one direction in one place it moves the other way in another place If you straigthen the sides of the window its become higher if you understand what im trying to explain not so god in english
If you live near Waukesha you can stop by my place and check mine out. Mine is not chopped or filled so I know it's not warped or screwed up in any way. E-mail me and we can get together.
2 more photo's for your viewing pleasure. The first one is taken from the p***enger side with the sh0p lights on,, The second photo was with the lights off to clear up any illusions. Hope this helps. HRP
Thanks again for all the help 37Kid, Heo, Rick and HRP. 37kid, Heo. I have tried a flat board in the opening and all is well here, the inner structure was strong enough that it remaind flat, the collapse was in the reveal and the outer skin, as the roof top bent doen from the weight the corners kinked and the reveal above the windo lost it's bend. The truss hit the reveal dead on so it bent inward in the middle and at the extreme edges. The trusses that hit outside the window opening ben the whole roof down, Rick sent you a pm, thanks for the offer The pictures really help HRP. Looks like the top reveal has a slight outward curve on the horizintal plane , and the roof is not truely flat about the opening on the vertical plane. Mine still unfortunately curves more than it should. Thanks Mike
I am not good at taking enough pictures but here a few I took as I started working through this damage. No that's not my weld connecting the top and bottom half together, I still have to deal with that. Mike
Could someone please review these two pictures. zid it me? The rear roof sections on the sedan and coupe look much differnt in the two bare metal bodies.Yet I can find a sedan that has exactly the same curvatures see the blue sedan. What gives.
hmm you posted my car at the bottom the black one.. I can tell you it has almost no bondo on the back window if that helps
The bare metal sedan has a pretty severe curve. Could it be that ford had great variances in this stamping?
The pictures of what you are working on looks like a partial roof skin that is no doubt scooting across the floor as you try to work on it. Ideally it should be tacked to a 5w body if you're going to have any success in making something out of it. Barring that, it needs to be fixtured (to a fab table??) so that you can attach turnbuckles and you can approximate the shape it would be attached to a body. Next, you need access to a body so that you can take some really good templates. Templates can start out in paper or cardboard, but to be useful they really need to be 16ga steel or heavier. My 5w body is pretty battered and I wouldn't trust templates coming from it..... yet. I'll see if I can dig up a pic of the interior bracing/adjustments that I am using to repair a '32 tudor from cast off junk parts....... the mostly fabbed quarter panel when it was still fixtured to the table.....
First off, Ford had a couple different manufacturers stamping out body panels for them. So if different cars look like they have different shapes, they probably do! I also agree that it's time for the panel to get put in the car, now that you've done the rough work. The panel will need some tension on it to help hold its shape, and that is best accomplished with it at lest tack welded in position.
Thanks tinman and Jonathan, I agree I have done enough with it off the car. It does appear that the panel I have matches the curve on the sedan I pictured. I also have a template off of another sedan I was able to pull and mine matches it as well. I am a long ways from mountin the panel on the car at this point. But this will be my next step. I will take Rick up on his offer and view his coupe and maybe get a template or two. Tinman please post more pictures of what you are up to on your sedan...this is very interesting. travel to ahLooks as if the coupe is trdse iit ot it'swow that's a
Now for an interesting development, Not only am I finding differences in the curvatures above the window between cars, now we have window opening variances. OZ 40 provided me with detailed info on a back window. His measured 8 3/4 vs the 8 7/8 pulled off of the coupe. With my windoe setup at 8 7/8 hears is the gap I have to deal with. This would mean that when cut 1/4 inch was lost. I could see an 1/8. Any thoughts?