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Projects Easy power train swap for 50 chevy

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by one4dad, Jan 15, 2010.

  1. one4dad
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 8

    one4dad
    Member

    I'm in the planning stage with my 50 chevy 2 door sedan. I know I want to swap out engine and powerglide as well as change out the rear end. Is there a relative simple swap with a chevy v8 ( 350) and auto transmission that does not require much floor board cutting as well as other major modifications. For example is there a late model rear end ***embly that is the right width as well as the possibility of same spring mounts. Is there a transmission other than the powerglide that may fit the same mounting brackets. I believe i will need to swap the motor mounts as the 235 6 has front mounts. Any suggestions along these lines will be helpful.
     
  2. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,694

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    There's a ton of info on this site, as well as over on ChevyTalk.org in the 49-54 forum. We used CE engine mounts, built a drop out crossmember for the trans using a modified Dodge Dart crossmember, and used a 56 Chev rear end. You'll have to trim the firewall supports for engine and exhaust clearence, no floorwork is needed, and relocate/redrill the locating pin holes for the spring pads. Also used 94-96 Caprice LT1 exhaust manifolds modified by drilling extra mount holes for earlier heads. We used an aftermarket aluminum radiator, but it's in the stock location. You'll need to change over to 12 volt, change all the lights, wire in a voltage drop for the gas gauge and heater blower motor; or, change the blower motor to 12 volt like we did. The driveshaft came from a Lemans/GTO type car for the right lenth, just had to use conversion U-Joints. Going to V-8, you'll lose the stock parking brake handle and linkage; we used a floor mounted lever from a Pull-A-Part yard, but I don't remeber what it came out of other than some FWD GM product. Just do a search on the forum for what others have done. Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  3. You can buy bolt-in mounts from a couple of suppliers that will let you put in a small block Chevy (will also work for a 4.3 V6) or a 230/250 Chevy six; someone makes an offset mount to let you bolt in a 292 six also. There are multiple options for transmission mounts as well, for the S10/Camaro type T5 or a 4-speed manual trans, or for automatic TH350, TH400, or 200R4. A second-gen Camaro rearend is as close to a bolt-in as there is if you don't want to change the springs or buy a kit, all you need to do is drill a couple holes in the pads because the locating pin is offset on the original springs (get yourself some ***anium drill bits). A little digging and you should be able to turn up a driveshaft that will work with no cutting.

    I don't know of any swap for this car that needs the floorboards cut, some cut the braces off the firewall for clearance, but that's about it. Unless you put like a straight eight in there or something. But in that case it would be easier to just swap for a Pontiac that could have come with one in the first place.

    There must be a dozen suppliers who make parts for these cars, as mentioned do a search -
     
  4. RDR
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,547

    RDR
    Member

    bought a 72 Buick that had been in a destrution derby....455/400 auto for 200$...put the engine/trans in a 50 2dr chevy and used a 56 chev rear axle.....one of the easiest conversions I ever did.....car is now in Japan,built and sold in early 90s; my current driver (52 Chev)has a 250/PG Nova rear end (1968) fit like it came in it.....Side motor mounts are not difficult to fab and trans mount usually come in close enough to utilize part of original crossmember.....a sbc and auto gotta be a piece of cake.......I put a 303 Olds and Cad trans in a '49 Fleetline in 1961 and that was a bit of a chore as the exh manifolds dumped right on the frame rails and the starter was on the left side and interferred with the steering arm/drag link so had to lengthen the strg arm at gear box...it did go together but certainly not as easy as that 455 Buick which had rh starter and rear dump exh manifolds! ....Do yourself a favor and;Remove the hand brake in the middle of the dash and put a foot pedal out of a donor car on the left kick panel to pull E brake cables and remove the spot welded ribs on the firewall for more room and a cleaner firewall...won't hurt a thing....Oh, another simple change on the Buick install was I put in a 54 strg box ***y and the slower ratio almost felt like powersteering....worked great and was easy with the engine out....SO get going and get 'er done...summers coming and you better have it ready for CRUIZIN' RDR
     
  5. The search ****on is your friend................
     
  6. 50merc808
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 199

    50merc808
    Member

    used the walton fab. stuff in my 54...went in like ****er.
     
  7. hopped up
    Joined: Oct 5, 2009
    Posts: 401

    hopped up
    Member
    from So Cal

    Easy? Well easier said than done. You'll find that in one way or another your gonna have to modify something. Back in the day everything was fabricated, today we have all these resources to help us finish our projects the EASY way. I used some of RB's products and made life, well preety EASY.
     
  8. jerry sezar
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 95

    jerry sezar
    Member

    Hi, one4dad......Mario just dropped his '49 Chevy coupe at my shop today. I will be sending you some progress photo's as I install a Jasper 350 Chev/4L60E. Haven't decided on the 3rd member yet but the eng/trans arrived Friday. Summit has dropped of the first order of "parts needed for installation", carb, distributer etc and the inital Speedway order with headers, hurst style mount, rat fink shifter etc on Tuesday. The coupe is Frank DeRosa Sr's last chop. It is beautiful just in primer. I will do a lot of cleaning up on the underside as it is very rough. The owner will ***ist me as he wants to get more involved in our hobby.

    Jerry
     
  9. one4dad
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 8

    one4dad
    Member

    thanks, I will be looking forward to the progress as well as the issues
     
  10. jerry sezar
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 95

    jerry sezar
    Member

    Hi,
    Worked on the project today from 10 til 5. Mario ***isted and we removed the original drivetrain. No issues yet, just a few fasteners rusted. Previous ch***is modifications are not up to my standards so we will spend tomorrow s****ing. powerwashing and grinding on the frame and firewall. I took several photo's, but my computer guy wasn't in today. I'll get them to you soon. Had a 70 Camero 10 bolt in my stash we will be using for the differential. We will grind off the spring pads as we are using air suspension. Ordered flexplate, bolts, performer intake manifold, balancer,starter, waterpump etc..........ouch......it's starting to cost money

    Jerry
     
  11. DEROSAGIRL
    Joined: Apr 19, 2005
    Posts: 296

    DEROSAGIRL
    Member

    Jerry where is your shop in Disco Bay? My dad wants to take a drive out & see the project....
     
  12. waldo53
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 863

    waldo53
    Member
    from ID

    Does it have to be a V-8? You can practically bolt in a 261 truck engine ('54-'62). These motors look great, sound great and can be made to put out pretty good power. Your stock front mount can be fitted to the 261. There's a variety of transmissions both stick and auto that can be used. A '55-'57 car rear end will bolt in as well.
     
  13. DEROSAGIRL
    Joined: Apr 19, 2005
    Posts: 296

    DEROSAGIRL
    Member

    Got it...I know that shop! I drive past it going out to Orwood ~
    this next week if that works...Thanks
     
  14. jerry sezar
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 95

    jerry sezar
    Member

    Hi,
    Been working on the project as ordered parts arrive. I will be sending you some photos this week. Lately most of our builds have been constructed to "lay frame". This chevy is no exception. I used the Speedway copy of a "HURST" front engine mount with their isolater bushings. I fabed up my own frount frame mounts to raise the engine up enough so the full length headers are at the same heigth as the existing x-member. I removed the old transmission support about .75 away from the angle support and fabricated a removable x-member. Because we "lay frame" I had to cut two slits between the top three bolt holes in the transmission cover and one the floor to alow the trans to come up a bit to get the proper carb base angle. We are waiting for Rob at "NO LIMIT" to send us one of his new kits that will locate the rear end. On Monday I had the honor of FRANK DEROSA dropping by the shop to check the progress. Not to many of the old timers are left.........maybe because we are becoming the old timers. I will send pictures soon......very kool that your family got you a project....

    Jerry
     

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