I haven't posted in a while because I haven't done anything to my car since I replaced the braking system, which now works great. Anyway, my car has been having problems starting. I don't think I drive it enough to keep the battery charged. That aside, I've gotten advice from a few sources that say I shoulde replace the generator that's in it with an alternator. The car is a 1960 Buick with a 401 naihead. Is the "single wire" GM alternator what I need and if so is there a generic alternator bracket I can buy at the local auto parts store that will work or do I need to have one fabricated? Any input will be greatly appreciated.
If the car isn't starting after sitting a long time, you may have a weak battery or a drain somewhere within your electrical system that is killing your battery over time. Generally, whan I'm away at school and the '57 is going to sit at home for months at a time, I disconnect a battery terminal. I haven't had a problem starting it when I do this. However, adding a GM 1-wire is a good idea that will help your electrical system. You don't necessarily need a 1 wire, but for ease of installation I would recommend one. Since they are internally regulated, you can scrap the voltage regulator that you have now. Just one single wire from the alternator to the positive battery terminal...installed. The facory generator bracketry should be close to what would be necessary to install a modern alternator, however, the offsets may be different. Generally they take a little modification to get to fit. If you're crafty or can weld, you're golden.
or you can have joe (57JoeFoMoPar) of joesiclari bracketry fab one for you hes awesome at making generator brackets work for alternators and even making a choke cable bracket that you can probably pull ur motor out with go with a one wire its the single greatest thing ive done to my car yet do more dimming headlights at a red light or ugly generator warning light when the idle kicks down
There's nothing wrong with running an alternator and external regulator. Specially if the expected load isn't too high. 65 amp Pinto alternator - small and compact, but not like some of the Japanese small alternators - cost $37. less tax last time I bought one. Regulator was $12. Trouble free for 41,000 miles in a roadster that draws maybe 35 amps with everything on - including heater and wipers....
[ QUOTE ] I've gotten advice from a few sources that say I shoulde replace the generator that's in it with an alternator. [/ QUOTE ] And who gave you that advise?! You need to DRIVE that pig more! You don't need a one wire alt. A regular GM internally regulated alt can be wired as a one wire. Bout $30 for a new one. I think running the gen. is fine...
I think Buick went to an alternator in about '64 -- Ironhunter would know. You might find the alternator bracket from that year or later is a bolt-on.
As long as the charging system is working, why mess with it. They have little battery chargers called Battery Tenders, for rvs and boats to keep the battery up when not used regulary. There cheep and work great.
Ok, you're right, I need to drive the pig more, blah blah blah. How can I find out if there is a drain in the system?
Over the years I've had many, many cars with generators, and I've NEVER had one leave me stranded. My '54 Chevy with a one wire GM has left me on the side of the road twice. I think the problem is is that remanufactured parts store alternators are total*****. I don't think you have a generator problem, it's probably just from sitting, I don't think you lost polarity on it, but you might have. Take a jumper from your field terminal and momentarily stick it a convenient ground, that should re-polarize it.
So apparently all my car needed was a new battery!! The guy at the auto part store confirmed that driving it more often would be a good idea if I want to keep the battery charged. He also said that if I plan on having the car sit for an extended period of time it would be a good idea to disconnect one of the battery cables... has anyone ever heard of this? Sorry for the basic questions but I'm new at all this car stuff. Also,... one last question for y'all, does a generator charge the battery at idle or does it have to be at higher RPMs? I have noticed that the generator light comes on a little (kind of on but kinda flickering) when it's sitting at an idle. ... Oh, and I gave the monster an oil change too! My first!
Yes, I would recommend disconnecting the battery cable if you're not going to drive the car for extended period of time. This is especially true in the colder winter months. While my '57 sits at home while I'm away at school, I disconnect the battery and it's always fresh for me when I return. I use one of those terminal mounted disconnects on the negative terminal. Just unscrew a knob and you're disconnected, and they cost $5. As far as 1-wires go, it really depends on who does the remanufacturing. I get mine from a local parts store, and they're indestructable, enduring many 6000+ RPM pulls and thousands of miles. I bought one from Jegs by East Coast Electric and wasted it in a month. Internally or externally regulated, an alternator is the way to go in my book. More amperage never hurts and offers electric flexibility; you don't have to think twice about adding that funky fresh ghetto stereo system or upgrading to brighter headlights, etc. I don't think generators charge at idle, but I may be wrong. None of mine ever did. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask, the HAMB is here for knowledge. Good Luck!!
Most generators do not generate enough voltage to charge at idle. For that matter, many alternators don't either. Alternator vs Generator - if you need current, go with the alternator. If you don't, why waste the money?
Nads- I agree about the parts store alternators. When I worked at a major auto parts store we had a few customers who had to make multiple trips to the store before we picked a working one off the shelf. As far as one wire setups go I am not a big fan of running them on early motors. The cut-in speed on them is a bit higher than a regular internally-regulated GM alternator. They also only require two wires to hook them up-and since you already have to run one wire then why not run one more!
I use one of these on my 40 Ford coupe. Most any parts store has them. EASY to install, easy to use (just loosen the green knob to disconnect the battery........and tighten it to make contact) inexpensive and effective.
[ QUOTE ] How can I find out if there is a drain in the system? [/ QUOTE ] Disconnect a battery cable...either one it doesn't matter. Use an automotive test light to bridge between the cable end and the battery post. With everything turned off on the car, the light should not light up. If the test light lights, you have a battery drain. (shut all the doors. The dome light circuit will show up as a drain and has caused a lot of wasted hours.) To find the drain, pull each fuse one at a time until the light goes out. Bingo that's the problem circuit. Now you know where to look further to find it. It used to be that we would get a warning when the battery was dying. Slow to turn over or it wouldn't hold a charge.(like yours) It seemed like we could go for a month on a weak battery to get to a pay day for a new one. I don't know if it's the new cars or the new batteries but now all of my batteries have gone from being just fine to junk with no warning at all. Stranding me where ever it decided to take a*****.
The Jalopy Journal
