Here's a pretty easy one, but hopefully helpful for those who haven't done it: 1. First off, I thoroughly cleaned the edges of my gl***, inside and out. This was a re-install and I had years of ac***ulated dirt and grime to remove. I also had to get rid of the stickum from the duct tape I used to protect my gl*** during my chop (keeps the weld splatter from pitting the gl***), so acetone was my chemical of choice. 2. With the gl*** clean, I wrapped the seal around it. ***Note: A little rubbing alcohol on the gl*** allows the rubber to slide over the edge of the gl*** and it evaporates quickly, so the seal is less like to slide off.*** I had a friend hold the seal after it had been installed on the short side of the gl*** while I lined it up along the long edges and stretched it around the other corners. It's obvious when looking at the seal that there's a channel for the gl***, a lip that goes on the inside of the pinchweld of the surround (and toward the underside of the gl***), and a small channel for the stainless trim (which I didn't install, but would have at this point). There is a also a seal that's available that doesn't have the channel for the stainless. 3..Still having my friend keep the seal from rolling off the gl***, I pressed a small rope (3/16" I believe) into the grove next to the lip that will go in the inside of the car. See picture below... I was told that it's best to get the top of the seal in first, so I started the rope on the short side of the gl*** and wrapped it all the way around, overlapping about an inch at the end. 4. With the seal and the rope around the gl***, I smeared a little dish soap on the outside of the pinchweld to keep the rubber from sticking and we pressed it into the surround. I made sure to keep the ends of the rope hanging inside the car because I knew I'd be pulling that direction to get the lip over the pinchweld. 5. Now this is the part where it's imperative to have two people, one to pull the rope while the other is pressing FIRMLY on the seal and the edge of the gl***. As I SLOWLY pulled the rope, I made sure my friend knew where I was so he could press on the right spot. We stopped a couple times to adjust the lip of the seal on the outside of the surround. A plastic putty knife works well for getting under the lip without damaging the paint or the seal. 6. Once the rope was out and the lip of the seal was seated on the inside of the pinchweld, the gl*** wasn't exactly positioned where it should've been. With the palm of our hands, we beat on the edges of the seal, mainly at the corners of the gl***. We were careful, of course, but we hit it pretty hard. I was told by several guys who've done these that you'll have to hit it way harder than you'd think. After a couple minutes of pounding on it, the gl*** was seated in the surround just like it came from the factory....ok, maybe at a different angle... That's it. I'm sure there are many guys one here that have done this, so if you have anything to add, please do so. Bryan
old factory gl*** tool ,,When ford shut down the Mustang factory in Calif I still had my old ID badge so they let me in to the BIG garage sale. I got a special tool they used for the old style gl***-rubber. They took a standard screw driver and chucked it into a lathe. cut off the blade end , made a 1/4 inch ball on the end then made a 2 inch long taper back to the shank. It was then heated and a bend with about a 1 inch leg on the end. If the rubber is not pulling out with the cord you just hook it with the ball end an pull it out and continue pulling the cord. the ball end will not tear good rubber. sometimes they dipped the end of the tool in kerosene before using it. I don't know why they didn't use soapy water.
factory tool to install the cord. The factory tool for the cord was a screw driver with a small ring welded to the end. the ring was just large enough so the cord would go thru. Thread the the cord thru the eye of your big needle then pull out about a foot at the top on one side . go across the top and all the way around then across the top to the opposite side so you have double cord across the top. You can controll the tension on the cord while you install it to get it down in the grove. It took about 15 seconds in the factory. you usually have to pull about half the first top cord before the rubber starts to come inside.
Hey Rusk...Thanks a lot for your post! I'm facing this job for the first time. I will be doing all the gl*** on my '40 Ford coupe. I had heard about the "string trick" but had never heard it explained clearly. You explained it pretty good. I did not quite get the part about "beating on the seal" though. Was that an effort to move the gl*** toward the inside of the car more, or to rotate the gl*** slightly clockwise or counterclockwise in it's opening ? Thanks again buddy!
timothale....thanks for the tips on the tools. It's great to have that info added here. Beating on the seal was just to get the gl*** to seat better in the opening. There were parts of the seal that were bulging a bit, especially one of the corners. Good luck with your '40. Yes...on Chevys like this one, the stainless has to go in first. Because I shaved my beltline, I'm not running the square corners of the trim and have to weld some new pieces in their place. I plan to install that when I blow the car apart for paint. Thanks for the comments. Bryan
Bryan, PERFECT ****IN TIMING!!!! I just got my rear window seal from NCA today and I my 1 piece windshield and seal are on their way from Bobs Autogl***. Thanks bud! Todd
I've used the rope trick many times, works great with curved windshields. I'd fully install the rubber gasket, grease up the rope with silicon spray, drop it into the gasket channel at the bottom center, run it all around and out next to where it went in. I use 1/4" utility rope. This is a 2 person job for sure, we'd get it started at the bottom, get the gl*** into the channel and pull the rope out as we progressed. Warm weather or working in a heated garage sure helps keep the gasket pliable. Bob
While working in the Mustang restoration shop we install a lot of gl*** this way. Works great. The only thing we did differently was to soak the rope in soapy water before installing it into the groove. Once this is done it helps the rubber slide over the lip better. Your way may work great also, never tried soaping after it was in the channel. Great tech.
I have done the rope trick also, using really soapy water. I did it the other way around -put the seal on the pinchweld, and used the rope to pull it over the gl***! So I think either way will work.
And when you get it all in and finished but one corner looks like it's standing up a bit just pop it with the side of your fist and watch it all ****ing shatter, ask me I know.
...very timely for me....did you use repo Chevy rubber or a 'universal' (bought by the foot) length? Great job...
Again, thanks for the input...lots of ways to skin this cat. I used the rubber designed for my gl***. I'd be interested in hearing what it takes to use the cut-to-fit rubber. The gl***guy who cut and installed my windshield didn't have a preference, so I ordered the universal seal for that. Bryan
OK, come over and install mine... You're an expert now and I will just screw it up anyhow. Nice tech post! .
I had a chance to tour the GM truck factory in '83 and they were installing rear windows in the cabs using the rope method.
I know this a old thread but I did my front and rear gl*** today. It is cold here so I put the seals in a ziplock bag and put them in a pail of hot water. It made them a little more easy to manage. I did the rear window first and then the windshield. The rear went in easy but I had to wrestle with the fron a little bit. The key to the whole deal seams to have the window sitting just right before you start pulling the cords. Use plenty of lube and don't be afraid to slap it nice an hard to get the thing seated. If you use a open palm (like your smackin the ole lady on the ***) you can smack it really hard with out worrying. Thanks again for the tech post Brian. It gave me the balls to do this myself and not pay someone to come out and do it. Todd
Im bringin this one back to see if anyone has pics of what the "bought by the foot" channel looks like, and how well it installs. Jaison
Bringing this one back from the dead, currently working on my donor rear window for my chop. Got some great info and pics here, hope it can help someone else!
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