Every state I know of requires insurance. Have the car appraised and take it with to buy your insurance. The same agent at Allstate or State Farm that would sell you a Stated Value policy should be able to sell you a regular policy on the same car. Not saying that only these two can sell you insurance, but they already have a collector policy in place. And by daily driver insurance, I don't mean collector car insurance. This would be a place like Geico, Progressive, Allstate, State Farm, etc. Any agent who knows what he's doing should be able to help you. Oh yeah, do you know how you put in a old VIN number in a 17 digit space? (I'm using a sample '58 Ford Serial Number out of a guide book) ******xB8FT109299 <----Looks like 17 digits to me...
I switched form hagerty too! Saved $200 and no mileage restrictions. Downside Hagerty will tow you 120 miles for free grundy gives a discount. Havent had to use either one thankfully.
Yeah, but if you tell the underwriter you want to occasionally drive to work, you can't GET coverage in the first place. I'm not talking weekly, I'm talking EVER. That is what a Grundy underwriter told me before. GRUNDY WILL NOT COVER YOUR CAR IF YOU DRIVE IT TO WORK. PERIOD! You are not the underwriter, Becky is not the underwriter. The underwriter told this to me and it appears others as well. As I said before, sounds like marketing and underwriting need to have a meeting. I think he's asking about Agreed Value policy. Of course he can insure his car for stated value, unless he's got a poor driving record or some specific reason he was denied coverage. But he has a valid question. If he gets denied because he wants to drive his car (that is what they are for, right?), then who sells an agreed value policy and allows daily driving? I'm not talking about occasional driving to work, Haggerty will do that. I'm talking about everyday.
I have State Farm on my 51 Merc. It is for stated value. I chose it because it is what I have for my daily's and home insurance and am happy with the agent. The main reason though is because I am confindent I can drive it to work. I work every other weekend so that's when I drive it. On average, I drive it to work 2 times a month. I didn't feel Grundy or Hagerty would alow that based on their online application. I would prefer an agreed value policy with a cl***ic car insurer, but don't want to chance not being covered. I probably put 1,0000 miles on a year with the few work trips, car shows/cruises and just country cruising. I do know that a claim would be covered no matter what (less the illegal stuff), but I don't want to be cancelled afterwards and not be able to get coverage elsewhere b/c I was previously cancelled. How does Grundy verify work travel? Do they interview employers? People could easily say they are just cruising or going to a carshow at am or pm rush hours. The police don't do***ent your reason for travel in their crash reports. Becky, what do you think about my situation?
One of my clients had his 69 Roadrunner insured with State Farm when he hit a deer. All I can say to you, is RUN from Stae Farm. When it comes to cl***ic vehicles, they are terrible to deal with.
Exactly this, and I have a perfect driving record. Those who will write me a policy will only provide what the state considers the absolute minimum. They say my 1929 Model A Closed Cab Pickup is worth $200, max. "GRUNDY WILL NOT COVER YOUR CAR IF YOU DRIVE IT TO WORK." My car is parked where I work. It is the only safe place I can keep it. Catch-22.
You guys are looking for a 'have my cake and eat it too' policy. I can't tell you there is such a thing. This is why collector car insurance is cheaper. I've had a lot of customers, including those with Grundy that store their cars at work. There is a big difference between making that commute everyday in that car, and picking it up and driving during typical leasure time. I had one family that had 8 cars stored at work at the back of their shop. It wasn't in danger of the parking lot or the drive to and from work. I personally don't see the problem. I can't imagine an underwriter having a problem with that either. Now if you are looking for a daily commute to and from work, collector car insurance isn't for you. If you don't have secured storage, collector car insurance isn't for you. The idea is that these cars are exposed to less risk than your normal daily driver. This is why the cost is less. It's certainly not because the parts and repairs are less. Again, I do work for four companies, including both Grundy and Hagerty. The main concern is secure storage. The second is how often you're driving the car and the purpose of the drive. One day to work, no one will have a stroke. Many days for work and you woun't be renewed. Let me give the difference between underwriting and claims. Underwriters ***ess risk. That is all they do. They set a dollar figure on that risk. Underwriters do not settle claims. Claim adjusters settle claims. They are the ones who issue checks. They are the ones who interpret the wording in the policy. Many companies keep sales, underwriting and claims away from each other. Why? Who knows. It's this way in all forms of insurance. You would think a sales agent who knows how claims works would be good. But not in the eyes of the VP's. The same is true in claims. They don't want them to know what the sales people are saying. It's messed up. The only people who can tell you something's covered or not (with apologies to Becky) is the claims staff. Most underwriters can't even read the policy. How does this relate to the underwriter? If the risk of insuring a given car is too high, they'll either raise the rate to cover the exposure or they won't write the policy. I can tell you a collector car as a daily driver is a risk they don't want. A collector car left in your driveway over night is not a risk they want either. Let me go into another area that you guys are not even thinking about; Medical! Your collector car has to meet the same state standards as your typical mom & pop minivan or SUV. I know most of you saw what happened between that '59 Bel Air and the '09 Malibu. Taking the shock value out of the equation, the odds of paying out a medical claim on an older car is higher than a new one. If you're driving this old car everyday thru rush hour, can you imagine the exposure the vintage car carrier would be open to? I'll use MI as an example. MI is a no-fault state. They also have unlimited major medical as a requirement. They have a manditory $1M in property protection insurance that is required. These are not optional coverages. Can you see how this becomes a losing proposition if these vehicles are daily drivers? If you want to drive the car daily, hey I get it! But collector car insurance isn't for you. You are going to pay regular rates and have a standard policy. This means buying seperate comprehensive and collision packages to insure the car and renewals every 6 months. It also exposes you to adjusters who are completely unfamiliar with older cars, hot rods, etc. Many insurers will not insure a typical hot rod on a standard policy. This may mean dealing with a Stated Value policy. Not much of a difference really, as you'll have to deal with the same claims staff. What you will have to do to protect yourself is to adjust and prepare for a claim before it happens. This is why I always suggest having an appraisal done at least once a year or every other year. If an adjuster says your '63 Falcon is worth $300 and has nothing but a guidebook to back him up, and you have an appraisal, you are ahead of the game. Come in unprepared and you are at their mercy. It's not a fun position to be in.
Again, if you have ANY type of insurance, it is your job to prove your loss. I might be wrong, but I've never seen any state make a guidebook with values, even CA. If you have an appraisal done before a loss, you are proving your loss with an unbiased evaluation of the vehicle. Many standard policies will only cover unmodified vehicles. For a modified vehicle, you need to look at the Stated Value policies at State Farm, Allstate, Nationwide, Gieco, etc, and check their wording regarding use and storage restrictions. These are typically a little more liberal, but read the policy before you buy to make sure you are getting what you want. Sometimes shopping is a necessary evil. There are ways to deal with this stuff, but sometimes compromises have to be made. It could be storing the car in a mini storage, renting the neighbor ladies garage, building a one car storage shed in the yard, etc.
I have no desire to drive it daily, but it might be 4 days in some weeks. We have an active community here! I am having trouble matching up the various things I am being told. I have been told that I cannot take the car home overnight, because there is no garage there (secure lot), which is fine. It will mean a lot of extra, illogical trips across town, so be it. But, since it is parked where I work, taking it back to where I park it is taking it to work, which precludes me from coverage, even if I do it on a day or days that I don't work. Appreciate all of the advice. I am not trying to be a pain-in-the-***. It is just working out that way. I just want something that is better than the runty policy I have now. Maybe I can't have it.
Not so much...I know from experience! I had a '70 F250 that I insured as a DD and on an "agreed value" policy with USAA. Their insurance was barely worth the paper it was written on. I had TWO appraisals on my truck from different local cl***ic car appraisers. They were at $7,500 and $8,000, respectively. This was a SLICK F250 that I got from my Dad. A tornado takes out my truck - there is no question about it being totaled, since there was not one straight panel, other than the tailgate, left. It flew 150 feet through the air and landed at least three times, before it stopped. You could see the divots where it impacted. Long story short, the appraisals and do***entation meant nothing to this jack***. He didn't know jack about Fords, either! He kept insisting that the air conditioning had been removed (the truck NEVER had air in it - ever!), and that the color had been changed to a non-stock color - the truck was blue and had been stripped to the body to get painted a dark Ford maroon - the only blue visible was under the damn CAB floor! They offered a whopping $2,150 for the truck. I told them to stuff it. I had to go before an arbitrator at the State Insurance Commission, with TONS of do***entation to support my claim. Ended up with just $4,100. So much for that. Now, from that same tornado, I had four of my old cars insured through Hagerty. Two were totaled, and two were fixable. The adjusters came out, took lots of pictures of the shop and the cars, and did their thing. Two weeks later, they paid out without any h***les or arguments. Big kudos to Hagerty!!! Insurance is a scam. Yeah, we have to have it, but the way things are set up, the insured generally ends up with the short end of the stick. I'm telling you guys that want to drive your hot rod as a daily driver, you insure with the regular insurers at YOUR risk and at YOUR peril. Don't depend on them to do the right thing in case of an accident or disaster, because they will not. If something happens to your vehicle, you might as well bend over and grab those ankles, because they'll come at you! Likewise, do not lie to the specialty insurers about how you intend to use your vehicle. You guys that think you are being clever; well, you're not.
i parked my cars at work for years. the insur co balked a little at first, but agreed. the deal is i can take the cars there, and take them out for a car related deal, but not as a regular commuter. quite simple really. now i have a building a few doors down from work where i store them, and the insur co is happier. they dont favor the idea of people aroud the cars all day. as a rule they like garage storage at home, but you can get them to agree to other locations skull
Sometimes pictures are worth a 1000 words. If you have a dedicated area in the shop that the car is parked, get a picture. But let me ask you this; If you drive it home at night and drive it back in the morning, are you not using the car as a daily driver? If the car stays at your storage place all week, comes home with you on Friday night and returns on Monday, this might be fine. But where would you put it at home? Any secure storage it all? I've seen different companies take different stances on this issue. It's one I have to report on when I look at someone's car. One company even wants a picture of where the car is to be stored (not Grundy or Hagerty). I looked at a Rolls Royce last year in the rich section of St Pete. The car was parked outside (again, this wasn't Grundy) all the time. The garage was full with two collector cars and this stayed in the driveway. Secure? Well, maybe. The entrance into this guys residence community had 24 hour security at the main gate. No one got in without signing in and at night, the guard had to let you out. The adjuster took the liberal view that it was secure. A Grundy adjuster was also looking at taking a liberal stance on where a car was stored until the owner tried to nickle and dime him for old damage on one car and left another out that was damaged in a storm. In the end, they didn't renew the policy when it ran out. The storage issue can be gray, and not everyone is out for blood. But there is also a point about limiting exposure. Oh, and don't get pissy with the adjuster... .
i think your dd was a stated value, not agreed. you need to prove up stated, but dont have to with agreed. if they didnt pay up on an agreed policy, they'd have troubles with the ins commision, at least here in kali i agree, usaa can be tough at times. skull
No, it was "agreed". Had the policy in my hand when I went to the arbiter. Didn't mean ****. Of course, our esteemed State Insurance Commissioner went to jail a couple of years later for improper relationships with various insurance companies. See where my utter disdain for these idiots comes from? Needless to say, once the repairs on my other DD ('96 ***mins Dodge) were finished, I cancelled USAA, and moved on to another, much better insurer. Told USAA to piss off and told them why. And, the jerks kept sending me **** in the mail for several years - "Please come back, you are a valued customer" - I'd send their **** back return mail, postage due.
sounds like the arbitrator was in usaa's pocket...at least you got rid of them. i think id still be harrasing them, and filing complaints with the ins commision.
Technically yes, but this could be said, all at the same time, and truthfully, about all three cars I drive, my motorcycle, my bicycle, the BART train, and the bus. I utilize all of them to go to and from work. One particular car (not the rod), and my motorcycle are used most of the time, the rest are used about evenly. Which one gets to be the one? I guess it is time to move to a house with a garage.
Grundys price enabled me to get car on road.Very good to deal with and no h***les.Quick service.Save your money and buy more parts!!
Anywhere you ask you will find somebody that is happy/unhappy with their insurance. Take a chance, trust yourself for once in your life. It's a no-brainer; go to https://www.hagerty.com/ or http://www.grundy.com/ or http://www.jctaylor.com/ and get a quote.
Patrick, I can't comment on the F250 without hearing from all sides. I'm not saying you are wrong. Regarding adjusters at personal lines companies, I will say that I've never heard anyone say, 'Who can I screw today?' I know when I was hired and trained at my first insurance company (AAA Michigan), I was advised that they had three rules... 1) Don't screw the customer! 2) Don't screw the repair facility. 3) Don't screw us (the insurance company)! Walk that file line to be fair to everyone and you'll be fine. They also told us that we could do anything we wanted within reason as long as we noted in the file why we did what we did. I was always a ****er for little old ladies. I can't tell you how many totals I fixed or how many settlements I padded because thay had been insured with the company 20 years and had never made a claim. Now, that being said, to many adjusters it is just a job. They are not car people and never will be. They may think they are doing the right thing because they don't know any better. It's not that they are trying to screw someone in as much as they are not familiar with older vehicles. Is this right? No. But it is what it is. A friend comes to me because his mother had an accident and totaled her '91 Buick Regal. This was in 2005. The car was a T-Type with all the bells and whistles. And it only had 41K on it. They wanted to give her $2350 for the car. It was worth $4500. I tried calling a supervisor on it because I knew him. I just wanted to talk about the logic behind the offer. They wouldn't talk to me. I had the lady write a letter stating I was representing her. And then I sent do***entation from other cars for sale in the area that were going for $6K in worse shape. Then I wrote my own estimate for the car which was a lot higher (the appraiser wrote the car from his truck because it was cold ). What I found was that they considered the condition to be average. It wasn't. It looked brand new. I got $4350 for her. The insurance company was pissed (I lost a few friends from this). The lady gave me $300 even though I was doing this as just a favor. There were three major problems here. First, the appraiser was too lazy to get off his *** and out of his truck to really look at the car. Second, the inside adjuster had been on the job less than a year and she knew it all. My way or the highway. And third, the supervisor blew me off when we could have talked and probably settled somewhere in the middle. But he wanted to back his adjuster to the hilt. You have to love GMAC. If this had gone to appraisal (arbitration in the insurance biz), I had a slam dunk. I think they were worried I'd get the $6K. Does this make them bad people? No, because I don't think anything was intentional, but they were ignorant. Remember, you have people from every walk of life in every form of business. Some good, some bad and most somewhere in between.
or American Modern or Infinity Cl***ic Collectors Fixed that for you. J.C. Taylor doesn't feed me. I feed those who feed me. If you have a claim with the bottom two here in Central Florida, thell them you want Sterling Appraisal Service to handle your claim if possible. I'm pretty much all Hagerty and Grundy uses, but I'm just getting started with American Modern and Infinity depends on how busy their own adjusters are. But the inside adjusters at Infinity love me . Buy the way, I try to spread the wealth with my own insurance needs. I use two of these companies for my Studebakers and business insurance.
I guess I'm confused now. I'm currently looking for insurance for 3 different vehicles. None are daily drivers and I have no intentions of using any as daily drivers. However, if my daily driver breaks down I don't see why it would be unacceptable to use one of them for a couple of days. I'm not talking rush hour traffic or 100's of miles a day. More like a trip to the parts store to get parts to fix the daily driver or run errands while the daily driver is in the shop. According to Grundys agreement of use policy that would be unacceptable. According to Swifster and Becky it would be ok? I understand that there has to be a little trust and a little common sense involved from both sides but this agreement of use policy seems awfully restrictive and looks to me like it leaves a lot up to the claims adjuster which could be good or could be bad. I was always under the impression that you go by the paperwork that you sign not what your told on the phone. You can call 5 times talk to 5 different people and get 5 different answers. None of which coincide with the Acknowledgement of Use page which I have attached. Is this there another acknowledgement of use page or is this it?
A subs***ute vehicle is a rental car. If your daily driver breaks down, you want this to be your daily driver. They don't want this for the obvious reasons. I don't think that slip of paper is saying anything different than what you've been told here. No one has suggested that you run a days worth of errands. No one is suggesting that you take it to work every day. No one is suggesting that you use this as a personal 'rental car'. If you took the car to the auto parts store to get parts for another car, do I think they would deny the claim? No. Do I think they will cancel you? Probably not. But I don't think they would be happy. And if it happened a second time, I'd think you'd see a cancellation notice. Look, if they've taken a premium from you, they have promised to pay the claim. Unless you do something fraudulant, they will not deny you in fixing your car. If you are playing games to get a cheap rate, they won't renew you. And there is a difference.
I've had Grundy since 1977. A lady recently nran a stop sign and totaled my 1960 Chevy police car. (see pics in profile.) Since it wasn't my fault, I still reported it if the other Insurance Company faulted. Grundy sent me a check for a $1,000.00. It's part of the coverage and there is no mileage limit. I wouldn't even think about changing.
I think you're missing my point. I understand what you're saying, but to me the agreement of use page reads as if the only time you should drive your car is if you are participating in or on your way to or from a car event or a function relating to your car HOBBY. Guess it depends on your definition of hobby driving. I understand that's not the case. I understand insurance companies don't want your car parked on the side of the street or left out in a parking lot all day everyday. I understand that it's in their best interest for the car to be driven as little as possible and parked in a secure building as much as possible. Obviously from the majority of the posts here Grundy is a decent company and most people don't have problems with them. I'm not playing games trying to get cheap insurance I just want to make sure that whatever insurance I decide to purchase meets my needs and that I stay in compliance with the agreements that I sign so that all parties involved are happy. I know I'm probably over thinking it, odds are I'll never even use.
...and I don't even care if it is particularly cheap. I just want good insurance, for the way I want to drive MY car.
I'm 23 years old and will more than likely have my car done between now and when I'm 24. I've heard from several people that many insurance companies won't insure a driver with a special interest car under the age of 25-28 (different people different ages). Does anyone know a truth about this? And I plan to drive my coupe everywhere-I built it to drive it everywhere. I literally thinking 12,000+ a year, does anyone know if that would be a problem with grundy or hagerty? Sorry to hi jack the thread
Edit that last line /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ I just read more. I understand that I would have to get a regular policy, but what about the first question? Anyone? Thanks!
after reading this i feel like i've been watching a ping pong match. back and forth. swiftster with all due respect, and i do believe you are honest and sincere in your posts but i think you may have mis-numbered the "rules". i would think you mean 3 then 1,2. as we all know insurance is a profit driven business. 1) Don't screw the customer! 2) Don't screw the repair facility. 3) Don't screw us (the insurance company)!
The Jalopy Journal
