Ok I have used everything from Sata to Star and sprayed in booths or at home. Problem I have always had is HEAVY primer surfacers. I am now using HOK stuff that is fairly think. I like a cheap Star 2.0 gun that performs as well as my Sata dedicated primer gun. I also like a regular non HVLP gun. Has anybody had GOOD results with a certain gun/needle/nozzle combo that actually works. I am talking about getting a real pattern that stays constant for more than 2-3 panels. I always wind up loosening the primer up as it goes otherwise I have a clogged mess. I had talked with some reps and they kind of agreed that it is something that is dealt with as the majority of production primers are not that thick. I am looking more experienced users that really have a combo that can lay down level surfacers day after day. Yeah i know the clean up is a bitch. I clean my like a surgeon before every use.
I'm running a SATA KLC with a 1.7 tip. It works great for urethane primer surfacers, epoxy's and sealers. But it isn't great for use on the sprayable fillers, featherfill, slicksand and the like but i have a cheap no namer for that. I also have a p.p.s set up on mine with seems to help with constant feed of primer.
I have a Sata KLC RP with a 1.6 and need to get a 1.8 for it as well. I also have a Devilbiss Finishline with a 1.8 and a 2.2. I usually have the same issue you speak of with HOK in my Sata. If I have to prime a whole car I'll usually load up the Devilibiss with the 1.8 to bypass the issues. I really, really, really wanna try the new Sata B 100 RP fro primer. Its a dedicated primer gun with the same body as the 3000 series that I love so much.
What products are you talking about exactly? Do you mean high build primer surfacer or sprayable polyester filler. I think sprayable polyester is a waste of time and material and stopped using it long ago. I use either a Binks #7 or a Devilbiss MBC for sealers, high build primer, etch primer, epoxy primer, base coat color, clears, urethane color, acrylic enamel, alkyd enamel and occasionally lacquer.
I use a SATA with a 1.7. Solvent selection is everything. The slower the solvent, the better the results.
.Painted many cars my 160 dollar Sharpe spray gun ..Then some A hole made Hlvp .Now that's my primer gun ,I also use to use a Binks 'But that bit the dust ,It was a hand me down from a neighbor ,Im a big fan of Sharpe Products ,Even my new Hlvp is a sharpe .My advise is get an old gun for primer ,
at work i use a devilbiss dont remember the tip size but i believe its a 1.5 or i use a cheapie harbor freight gun. at home i use a Binks #7 siphon gun
i painted professionally and have used everything from devillbis and binks to harbor freight and wholesale club guns, as long as the gun you are using is clean, has an even spray pattern, and atomizes paint property its more the guy behind the gun than the gun itself. try to stay away from gravity feed guns for primer and metalflake. everything settles to the bottom and clogs up the gun.
i've shot high build primer/surfacer with pressure feed pot through a binks 7 worked well. mainly did it because i was shooting complete vehicle (blown up after media blasting) so i had alot of area to cover.
Iwata LPH-440 baby; they have a primer specific gun that is very light, doesn't burn a lot of air, and does a good job on all primers that I have tried. Shot my truck last weekend with the DuPont 3250S URO primer that was a high build. Worked great. I can recommend it. Adam
Binks #7, I learned on one that's probably close to my age! I have several guns but my DeVillbis always is dependable.
hahaha same here. When they clog up I shit can it. I buy a few when they are on sale for $10 each. I use the older siphon industrial ones they seem to work fairly good and cheap.
I believe the Sata I have is a KLC but off memory it is a 1.8. I do not use spray poly. It is HOK primer surfacer but I have had similar problems with any high build. From some of the answers I am lost how you guys are spraying a full panel with such small tips? 1.5-1.7? No way you would get that paint out of the gun? I like all info as you are never too smart to learn. I just hate reducing material more than is on tech sheet. I have done it for years and know tons of guys who just do the same. I will look at the IWATA. To guys that are having zero problem are you adding reducers and at paint mfg's sheet. There are tons of surfacers out there but 90% of them are the same deal with a 4:1 and don't add more than 5% reducer. I will post up HOKS recommendation later as more info on my end would help for clarification. Thanks
I'll keep that in mind. Had problems in the past with primer coming out looking like grip tape in spots. I use a Devilbiss starting line with a 1.8 needle. Cheap enough and you can get service parts for them.
I Use an Astro-pneumatic 1.9 hvlp as my primer gun. I shoot HOKkp2cf all the time with it ( no problems0. Increase pressure I use 35 psi@ gun and overeduce the primer 10 % more than reccomended. I shhot a consistent 6" pattern with it.I have a Sata 1.3 jetb hvlp for topcoats.
Yeah see this is where the it works for me doesn't make sense. Using a different temp reducer will adjust flow but how would it effect pattern? Over reducing is making a surfacer a sealer or increasing the chances of swelling. This is exactly what I am getting at. No argument here but there is no way you are spraying HOK KP or with a HF gun with good results. I have been there done that. Astro is probably the best cheap gun as it is a Sata knock off and it works but surfacer has to be adjusted. I checked my old Sata and it is a 1.6. According to Sata themselves I need in the 2.0 range. Iwata also recommends 2.0 so not sure how that is working?? 1.7 will work over reducing the primer. Anybody not over reducing surfacer not poly and have a set up that works to prime a full car in one shot without clogging or losing pattern?.
i just use an astro gun not actually for primer but it lays 5 star primer really smooth and i never have to sand the primer to smooth it out.
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