Good advice, especially if you're not running a secondary byp*** (off the barrel valve). The secondary's job is to take care of the closed throttle/high RPM case that causes huge spikes in the system pressure.
Thanks. I'll be on the lookout for one. The Crower injections are very cool...I think Kinsler actually bought the tooling from them when they got out of the injection business. A modern Kinsler big block injection is very similar to a Crower setup.
Hey Rotten Johnny, Thanks for the thumbs up on mechanical fuel injection. My Hilborn unit was rebuilt by Gene Adams and when he rebuilt the unit I told him I was gonna run it on the street so he did change the curve on the barrel valve for a better idle. The guy on here that said he had driven a spring car was right. The barrel valve is the "thing" for idle. The byp*** valve with spring tension and the "pill" is for WOT. Gentlemen, last but not least, with any engine you need correct timing. With mechanical fuel injection it is even more critical because of the amount of fuel and air that is sent to the combustion chamber. Set the timming with about 10 degrees intial at the crank and then put the rest of the advance in by turning the mag or distributor. Each engine is different and when you add timing you really won't need a timing light because when the timing is right the engine will be "talking to you saying "oh baby" I like that. Great discussion guys. This is what makes the Hamb great! Thanks to all and keep the discussion going! 1940 Willys Coupe
I bought an enderle bug catcher complete setup off a running chevy 454 that was fairly streetable, 2 of the air inlets have been blocked off inside the hat so it is much less cfm than normal. It also had a small electric pump setup to prime it for startup. I am putting on top of an 871 mooneyham on a 392 hemi and am hoping the setup will at least be close. I have a name somewhere of a guy who can supposedly tune any blower-injection setup so hopefully it can work. I don't really plan on trips down the highway just short cruises.
I know little about the domestic-type systems referred to here, but I believe that they are not the same as K-Jet/CIS because they do not have the facility for airflow measurement that is provided by the CIS air door (flow sensor). Running dual CIS four cylinders on a V8 would be unique, but given the ease of digital port injection and the fact that the air door would require a single inlet tract to each bank, thereby precluding the use of individual stacks, I really don't see the point.
To further be a pest, is there a way so that we can read the article more clearly? Thanks for posting, by the way! b) there is another article, which i promise i will post if/when i can find it that solves everything as far as running mfi on the street(even though again, i thought gm and those offshore guys solved it in the 50's?)
The K jetronic will work on any engine provided you have the proper distibution block I am currently hunting down a 6 cyl volvo one for my slant six dragster. The larger Hp versions must use a larger air meter plate in the venturi. It s a very good yet very simple system. i would like to take it a step further and make it a full drag race set up but first i have to find one. I used to work on them back in the day but all they ever needed was minor adjustments for emission pasing.It is possible 2 4cyl units could work on a v8.Anyway i want to try if i can find a servicable unit. Even have my training certificate in them. I hadnt thought about them in years till some one last week was talking about his mech injection. That jogged my memory and I have been hunting ever since. They are totally mechanical despite the "tronic " in the name. They do use an electric pump. The conrtoller is a very ingenious device as as i recall trouble free. Early Rabbits used these systems to to hop around. Some poersches also. They replaced the Webers. 9That should tell you something right there! Don
While I am far from an expert on the matter, I believe that K-Jetronic was introduced on Porsches not for performance reasons, but to meet emissions standards. The top-of-the-range 911S actually lost power when it was switched to K-Jet. I believe this was not entirely due to the airflow restriction of the main air-door, but also because the old S-cams were too much for the K-Jet system. Like most early injection systems, K-Jet is not able to work with a lot of cam overlap. Porsche had been using mechanical fuel injection on street cars for some time. Kugelfisher I think, although that may be on BMWs. Either way, FI wasn't new to them, and K-Jet was not for power reasons. The fact that the USA got K-Jet Porsches before the rest of the world in the 1970s should tell you something. If there was a power advantage, Porsche would have sold them like that around the world. It isn't like Porsche has ever been shy about adding price and technology to their products. Instead, K-Jet appeared in the only market with emissions regulations, and nowhere else. Probably more about Porsches than most care to know, and while I think that putting a Volvo K-Jet unit on a slant six is beyond cool, I just think the idea that K-Jet is a performance system, particularly based on its use in Porsches, is not correct. The fact that about five years later, scores of Rabbits came with K-Jet and were tuned up by hundreds of people is a better data point.
I have a 540 inch BBC currently with a TBS 8-71 and 2 Demon 850's setup by the Carb Shop. It runs great and dyno'd at 924 HP and 894 lbs of TQ. Now I'm in the process of changing all that. I have a new Enderle Big & Ugly hat, but removed the nozzles and distribution block because I'm told MI won't wok on the street. I bought a new BDS 16 nozzel plate for under the hat and have a new Hogan's sheetmetal manifold made to my spec's with nozzel ports in each runner with #8 fuel rails. I finally discovered the new Holley Dominator EFI box will fire 24 injectors,,,, bottom line, I would love to run MI as opposed to EFI. Any ideas?? I'm open to suggestion either way.
Here is a sight that explains in some detail what was done to run Enderle mechanical fuel injection on the street. hawkesfuelsystems.blogspot.com I hope this clears up some questions as far as running mechanical fuel injection with a blower. Tom
Great info. I just picked up a hilborn unit for a olds rocket. I am looking for ideas to set up a mech pump driven from the crank.
The pump runs at half speed. Same as the cam. So I just get a Hilborn pump mount on the Bay and make something to adapt it to the front of the engine off the timing chain cover. OHC cam drive pullys work fine for driving it and belts are available form Gates and other dealers.
I just dug this up, but I had to look for it, its actually in December '77. 40Willys, what nozzles are you running? I was going to start with 24's, too big? I finally made a deal on a set of early 1 13/16" Hilborns, I will be running them on a 327, I plan to use a tach drive Corvette distributor (MANY thanks @Lost in the Fifties ) and MSD7 instead of a mag, I think that will help a lot with the part throttle loading up. I plan to back it with a 200R4 auto with a 4000 stall converter and 4.88's or 5.13s. I think with the loose converter and big spark I can make it work.
like rich says.. the pump is driven at half engine speed and pumps more fuel and pressure the higher the RPM. most engines will need a high speed byp*** to stop from being too rich on the top end when you get it rich enough off the barrel valve. if you had the time and inclination to do so you could set up multiple byp*** points with return jets. by setting the spring pressure of the byp*** is sets the RPM that it will open and the size of the pill will determine how much that step leans out the mix. you would drive yourself insane though... when I raced midgets I cleaned my nozzles and both byp***es before every race...also checked the barrel valve leakdown. one more tip.. if you do dabble in injection you have to own your OWN set of leakdown gages and only use yours... don't compare notes with hilborn or your engine builder on pressure or %. tune the engine to your gauges consistently or you will be chasing your tale.
Ran a crower stack unit on a big block in a nova . Mostly drag raced it but drove to some cruise ins . The cops frowned on the zoomie headers and no mufflers. It did not have a flat spot anywhere. Ran 5.80's using the trans brake and 6.00's footbraking it. Ran mid 120's in the 1/8th. Once you figure it out mechanical injection is nothing more than a controlled fuel leak. The engine can't use the amount of fuel most belt driven pumps are capable of delivering so the injection uses what it needs and sends the rest back to the tank. I ran mine on alcohol by the way.
Methanol on the street? That's some work... If I let my midget set for a day it would develop what crust from the methanol on all the Jets and valves making them sticky. I sold my best running motor to a guy who ran it only a couple races a year and could never get it to run. I bought it back for peanuts ran the valves and flushed all the white crud from the fuel system. Ran good enough for the track owner to outlaw my car..... Btw... stack size does matter. I necked that motor down to increase low end torque Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I flushed my system with gasoline after each race or street run. I know its a h***le , but my fuel system was trouble free. Always used marvel mystery oil in the pump and top end lube in the fuel.
Top end lube helps... was illegal in my race cars. Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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