I have a couple of questioned today, I'm getting ready to install a 235 into my 49 chevy truck . Were are the two best places to mount the chain to pull the engine? The shop manual shows the third bolt on one side and the fourth bolt on the otherside. The chain does'nt seen to be apart enough. The other problem I'm having is the 235 is a 56 the motormounts are on the sides . My 216 has one in the front . I was reading that you could take off the front mount of the 216 and exchange then. Another article said to drill the holes in the front plate and reinforce the plate . Reinforce it how and were ? The 235 plate looks the same without the holes. Thank you for your help !
That chain location is probably fine. It's usually a guess, but it's true that if the attatchment points are kinda close, it might allow you to tip the engine a bit if needed. You've got the right idea about the front mount. You'll have to at least loosen the oil-pan.
I used a four point chain mount system when installing my 235. On the intake/exhaust side, I used two of those bolts (see pic). On the other side I ran a bolt into the coil mount and I believe there was another place near the front I used. Again, it was attached in four places and I had no worries. I believe I pulled out the old 216 the same way. I also used an 'old valve cover' installing the 235 so as not to 'mar' the painted one. I drilled holes in the front plate of my 235 to use the front plate mounting method.
Sorry, chuck. I wasn't clear enough...probably 'cause I'm not 100% sure. I seem to remember changing plates from 235 to 235 to get the front mount, but I can't remember if I ever used a 216 plate. I'd say look at it good. Take them both off, and compare. I'm sure that you'll be able to see if there are any differences. I could go out in the barn and compare my 235 that I replaced the 216 with in my '37, but maaaan it's cold and windy here right now. Do some investigation. Tell you this much...I know that guys have drilled the 235 plate for the mount, so that's a given. I've never heard anything about reinforcing it. Do a search here. There have been plenty of tutorials and discussions on this. Also go the stovebolt.com site. Lots of info there too. Sorry I can't be more thorough or specific. It comes from doing a little here and a little there over the years. If I did it all the time, it'd be different. Good luck.
Best bet is to drill the holes out in the front plate, you have to take the timing gear off to exchange it so you don't want to go there. Take a look at both ... I believe the bolt patterns are different on the plates. One extra tip here ... leave your water pump off when you go to drop in the 235 ... it's a little bit of a tight fit between the firewall and the rad cradle ... best of luck and welcome to the "Inline Six Society" Here's a couple of shots of mine in my '54.
P.S. - Chuck, that reinforcement issue might have to do with an additional piece of metal stock...a strap or something...welded to the back of the plate for additional thread-engagement when you bolt the mount to the plate. Again, take a look after you have both disassembled.
I just measured the holes on the old 216 and drilled the plate on my 57 engine and it works just fine. Easy to do just put something between timing cover and plate to prevent hitting timing cover. Donny
I used that chain method and it sheared a grade 8 bolt and dropped the engine. Since then I always lift inlines with a tow strap. If it can pull a 2500# car it can lift a 500# engine. Anyway, I loop it around the crank in front and and between the block and bell in the back.
I do that too. It works great. It is way easier to drill out the front plate. You have to pull the oil pan (to get at two bolts) and the cam gear to change the plate, and the cam gear is supposed to be hot pressed on so you more or less would have to take out the camshaft. 216,235,261, and GMC inlines all have the same front plate except for some have holes and some don't.
the first one of those swaps i did i changed the plate. what a mess. after that i got smart and drilled the noles.
My wife drilled out the front plate on her 235, She left the plate attached to the engine. NO problem. You just have to be careful when you break through so the drill doesn't continue into the timing cover. The holes don't have to be perfect either. The rubber in the mounts will take up some of the slop if your holes aren't dead on.
I used a tow strap for an AMC 232 also. Not around the crank though. Just twice around the engine with backed out intake/exhaust bolts to keep the loops seperated.
I'm doing it this weekend ! My son and I have been waiting for weeks to pull the motor out of the chevy truck . The 216 that's in it has a hair line crack under the sixth cylinder . The crack started a couple of years ago when we were living in Reno . I guess there wasn't enough antifreeze in the engine that winter. The truck is going to be my sons when he's old enough to drive so I wanted to make it more of a driver . My son connor is going to be 12 in Apirl. Thanks again for all your help !
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