Looking through the latest (I think) "Cl***ic Trucks" magazine I found an article about an attachment for your engine hoist that will make it easier to lift p/u boxes and such, looked cool so I showed it to a couple of kids in cl*** and they build it. It works great! Congrats and thanks to Jim Rizzo for a very cool article!! Our next project is to try and figure out how to mount the engine hoist in a reciever hitch and make it able to rotate so we lift items into the back of a pickup. If anyone has any ideas to share we would love to see them...thanks
neat, for the next project see if you can use a trailer stub axle/hub. make a plate with the bolt pattern cut out in it, weld the 2x2 onto it from one side, and then make the stub axle point straight up, so the vertical post of the hoist fits over it. just an idea.
There is a commercially made one on the market by Spitzlift. Its a little pricey but go to their site and get some ideas for your home made ones. http://www.spitzlift.net/products/applications/receiver_hitch.htm You might be able to get the webstrap crane and adapt it with your own receiver mount. Don't forget to include the tube foot under the crane and the offset to the side will put a hugh load on the receiver if you don't have any support under the crane. Jim's idea for a rotating device is good if the hoist is on level ground. If not the load will rotate to the low side. Neat post. Keep encouraging those students of yours.
I'm just trying to figure why? I've always lifted beds and cabs with an unmodified cherry picker. Other than a mile long reach, what do you gain?
Honestly, I've never tried with a regular hoist, would probably work just fine, especially on this old chevy. This will free up some options for us (coming from the side, back, whatever) and it was a good, fun project. Maybe not absolutely necessary but worth our time none the less.
I had a similar response. I use a 4x4 laying on top the hoist and secured near the pivot to extend the reach to go all the way through the cab. I haven't extended the base and haven't ever felt it was necessary. I don't worry about keeping the cab level and can't imagine why it would be necessary in most cases.
I was kinda wondering the same thing.......seems like you are a long ways from your work. It would probably work better for cabs/ bodies.....keep those kids trying, thats the best way to learn...
Dan- pretty good if that's what you need and will use it. i'm just thinking though....(and i'm not an engineer)... it looks like an awful lot of leverage. maybe the pump pivot mount on the top arm should be moved out a bit?
I was looking at that H beam setup hanging from it and think I'll weld one up to use with my chain hoist on my A frame gantry setup. I've lifted the bodies off and back on the frames of a couple of cars by using the chain hoist an gantry on the front end at the firewall and then using my cherry picker at the back. lift it high enough to roll the frame out from under it an back under it when the work is done. On the 51 Merc I ran bolts through the body mount bolts at the back of the trunk and to bolt holes that were low on the firewall. Either setup makes it a one or two person job and you don't have to buy beer for the six buddies that you called to help take the body off or put it back on again.