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Flathead score

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 67cst, Jan 31, 2010.

  1. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 138

    67cst
    Member

    Hey guys i picked up this 21 stud flathead, fairly complete(no carb). Has compression so it might be a runner. I also got 3 24 stud flatheads none as complete as the 21. The guy i got this stuff from has a 32 frame boxed, a complete truck box and 32 grille. im going to get the frame, box and grille in the next couple of weeks. Would this motor be allright for a low buck cruiser? I know they dont make a ton of power but that isnt a real concern.What kind of transmissions would work with this motor? I'm new to this old stuff so any input from you guys who know this stuff would be great. I guess im on the lookout for an early 30s cab now :)

    Thanks.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 31, 2010
  2. Stllrng.
    Joined: Aug 17, 2005
    Posts: 404

    Stllrng.
    Member

    I would spend the time and make one good engine from the 24 stud parts. Sell the 21 stud to someone that is restoring a car.
     
  3. Straightpipes
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,084

    Straightpipes
    Member

    What he said, sell it to a restoration guy. Anyway, I wouldn't biuld a "rat rod cruiser" with it. Use the 24 studs to biuld a hot rod.
     
  4. TraderJack
    Joined: Apr 10, 2008
    Posts: 330

    TraderJack
    Member

    Nope, what I would do is strip the 21 stud and sell the pieces you don't need for the 24 stud. The pieces might be worth more than the whole engine.
    Trying to figure out what the second picture is. Looks like it came from a commercial power source rather than a car or truck. Generator looks big, looks like that would be a governor of some sort, crankshaft pulley changed, generator pulley wrong,.

    Yep, I would strip it out , rebuild parts as necessary , and put them up for those people who need parts, the short block would sell as it appears to be in good condition.

    You really don't want that in a car at this time, unless it has been converted to bearing inserts.

    Traderjack
     
  5. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 138

    67cst
    Member

    what year do you think this motor is? the guy who gave it to me said '36, i read on here that some '36 motors had newer style bearings. i couldnt find LB stamped anywhere, guessing it has babbits?
     
  6. TraderJack
    Joined: Apr 10, 2008
    Posts: 330

    TraderJack
    Member

    It makes little difference whether you think the bearings are inserts, you have to know! And that means drop the pan and pull a rod off.

    You would want to do that anyway if you are going to put in a car.

    they will make power, just not as much as a 24 stud, but as I said, the babbit bearings will make rebuilds harder.

    If it has inserts , use it! I think it was running a very short time ago, looking at the spark plugs!

    Traderjack
     
  7. JF
    Joined: May 15, 2008
    Posts: 520

    JF
    Member
    from Utah

    I'm really curious as to what that second pully /pump is for on the right side. anyone seen one like that before??
     
  8. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 138

    67cst
    Member

    i flipped it over and went to pull the pan but it seems that the back of the pan is part of the lower bellhousing? im such a FNG with these things, does this sound right? is it possible to pull the pan on the stand?
     
  9. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 138

    67cst
    Member

    it says on the tag rivited to it that its a governor
     
  10. Straightpipes
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,084

    Straightpipes
    Member

    That is a constand speed governor. Mostly for engines used in generators etc. Flathead Fords were used in a lot of industrail applications. You will have to pull a main bearing cap to see if it is a babbit engine or not.
     
  11. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 6,108

    Okie Pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Check out the water pumps the outlet or inlet is on top of the housing but maybe i dont know what iam talking about. It has a governor so it was used as a power unit for some thing.
     
  12. TraderJack
    Joined: Apr 10, 2008
    Posts: 330

    TraderJack
    Member

    Well, I have never seen a Ford with integral pan and bell housing, but I suppose anything is possible. If I remember correctly though the pan drops and you have to use a long extension to get to the pan bolts at the back of the motor.

    good luck, and you got a good deal!


    Traderjack
     
  13. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 138

    67cst
    Member

    well i got the pan off, i had to adjust the 4 brackets on the engine stand all to the top of the bellhousing and after that the pan/started pulled right off, the crank turns freely and sounds like there is some good compression..can you tell what style bearings i have from the pics or do i have to pull a cap?
     

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  14. TraderJack
    Joined: Apr 10, 2008
    Posts: 330

    TraderJack
    Member

    Look at the rods and the mains where they join and see if you can see any shiim stock. We used to have the shim the stuff after s****ing the bearings.

    TraderJack
     
  15. TraderJack
    Joined: Apr 10, 2008
    Posts: 330

    TraderJack
    Member

    Damn thing looks pretty clean for a 21 stud.!


    TraderJack
     
  16. TraderJack
    Joined: Apr 10, 2008
    Posts: 330

    TraderJack
    Member

    You know, looking at it, it looks like it has inserts in the rods, at least!

    TraderJack
     
  17. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 138

    67cst
    Member

    traderjack, does this help at all? i couldnt see any shims but what do i know:rolleyes:
     

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  18. Straightpipes
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,084

    Straightpipes
    Member

    X2 You will have to pull a main cap.
     
  19. Heo
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 524

    Heo
    Member

    all have inserts in the rods only the
    mains are babbit on earlyflathead v8s
     
  20. flatheadhero
    Joined: Feb 17, 2006
    Posts: 273

    flatheadhero
    Member
    from California

    Babbit or not, I'd simply check the tolerances and run it if its still in decent shape. Babbit is can be a h***le to rebuild, but- if its only showing minimal wear, it will be fine for a local cruiser. Finding babbit bearings doesnt mean you need to put a steel pot on your head and bang on it with a s****, save that exercize only if the babbit is damaged or worn out. I ran a 1935 babbit motor for years, was a smooth runner.
     
  21. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,977

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Damn, that motor is pretty clean inside. You may have a winner in this one. It doesn't take that much more effort to build a clean little hotrod instead one of those R things either.
     
  22. Great score, pump in head motors are great. If you are going to play around with that mill I'd suggest spending the $25 on material and a couple hours to build a correct flathead style engine stand head. Having it bolted to that engine stand by the bell housing is bad news as it can break the bellhousing. Also there are TONS of great flathead books avail, these books are worth every penny you spend also find a couple guys that KNOW about flatheads locally and pick their brains. Another suggestion is LUBE the hell out of that engine before firing it up, get as much oil up in and around the valves and guides as possible days and days before firing it. If it has sat any length of time it WILL have some stuck valves. Lastly prepare for an addiction, you will LOVE wrenching on the flathead. I have 2 and the one I bought this summer has provided many hours of good times with friends, tools, beer and then more books and learning...
     

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    Last edited: Jan 31, 2010
  23. flatheadhero
    Joined: Feb 17, 2006
    Posts: 273

    flatheadhero
    Member
    from California

    Whats the serial number on the top of the bell housing?
     
  24. flatheadhero
    Joined: Feb 17, 2006
    Posts: 273

    flatheadhero
    Member
    from California

    Whats the serial number on the top of the bell housing? Depending what it is, you can get a rough idea of the year it was ***embled by looking here.

    http://www.wnyrg.org/tip.html
     
  25. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 138

    67cst
    Member

    cool, ill make up one of those mounting brackets tomorrow or tuesday, for now ill wedge a 2x4 under the front end to take some weight off the bellhousing.
     
  26. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 138

    67cst
    Member

    mr48chev, whats an R thing?
     
  27. Chris
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 14,500

    Chris
    Member

    Yeah, babbit bearing 21 studs are stupid ;)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]





    All rods will be insert bearings, only mains will be babbit. Check out that 24 stud, too. It could be a 221...
     
  28. paco
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,141

    paco
    Member
    from Atlanta

    67cst ...... the "R" thing is a word that is generally frowned apon on this site ..... it stand for ......dare I say it "rat rod". That's kinda a NO NO round hear.

    Save yourself a bit of greef ....... your going to build a HOT ROD .... ya ...... that's what it is - a HOT ROD.

    PACO
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2010
  29. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 138

    67cst
    Member

    looked all over the bell housing cant find any numbers..are they there somewhere or maybe there wasnt any to begin with?
     
  30. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 138

    67cst
    Member

    thanks paco! yeah hotrod, thats what i meant! :)
     

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