So whats the best way to adjust these on a motor you dont know much about i read to do it while running is there any danger in doing this...its a 283/w 327 double pump heads
Its easy to do ,just messy ,as you have to do it with the valve covers off, and the motor running, DUH ! or you can take a old set of covers and cut off the tops so that the oil don't splash out and run down onto the headers......... lash them just like any other rockers for the most part ....
A solid lifter is just that, solid, as in no moving parts. These would be adjusted via feeler gauge, with the engine off. A hydraulic lifter is spring loaded and pressurized with oil, and provides a "cushion" to the valvetrain operation. They adjust with the engine running. The 283 could have either one from the factory, depending on the application, and by now, who knows. You can do a quick check like this: Engine off. With the valve covers off, find a cylinder that has both valves closed. Slowly tighten a rocker nut on one of the rockers on that cylinder, count the turns. Observe the push rod. If the push rod moves down a little, before the valve starts to move down, then you likely have hydraulic lifters. If it does not move down, and the valve starts to move down almost immediately, without the push rod moving down first, you likely have solid lifters. After you check, turn that rocker nut back out the number of turns that you turned it in, and then adjust using the method based on what you discovered.
Just because the've never been adjusted dosnt mean they need to be. You might be doing some unnessary work. My roller rockers have never been adjusted. If you have hydrolic roller lifters they shouldnt need adjusted. Solid lifters ware down after awhile and might need adjusted.
I adjust mine with the engine not running. I've done it the other way but its a pain as far as I'm concerned. I don't suppose that you are going to hurt the rockers either way. More likely to bend a pushrod. Buit if you have some idea what you're doing I don't really see that happening either. With the engine not running turn them until there is no play then another quarter turn. There is a formula for getting the right valves done at the right time. I'll dig it out when I get home and post it for you. You can adjust them all in two revolutions of the engine.
Looking down through this thread, I think this is a MUST read for you. Lots of good information and an easy reference. http://www.amazon.com/Build-Small-Block-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760310963
I'd be very su****ious of a car that the owner says the valves have never been set. Whoever built the engine would have at least ballparked them to have the car start and idle. If the engine was never 'broken in' properly...it could seem like they need to be adjusted (and should have been), but could be a flat lobe from improper lube/break-in. My first questions to the seller would revolve around - who built the engine? - why weren't the valves adjusted at time of build? - why are you selling it? If it's a stocker engine, or he has no idea what cam it has....approach with trepidation - especially if you don't know if it's solid or juice lifters. This sounds like maybe you haven't asked enough of the right questions... just a thought.... dj
double hump heads to the best of my lack of knowledge were on 327s not 283s so at some point they have been changed. there is another way to adjust them. tighten the nut down to the point the rocker makes contact with the valve then count the turns to the bottom of the lifter or when it stops turning. then back it off half that amount. that is the way engine builders that work in rebuild shops do it. the best part is you dont have oil flying everywhere.
You can adjust hyd. just by having the pushrod between two fingers, with the valve closed, turn it back and forth till you feel alittle drag than give them 3/4 turn more. Do the rest done.