Car has been in limbo since Turkey Day . . . @#%#@ . . . couldn't get laser cut parts, holidays, other projects - you know the drill. Anyway, the last you guys saw the frame there was a big piece missing - the 'skid plate' (only name I can think of!) that ties the two cross-members together, covers up the bottom of the ****** and adds a lot of torsional stiffness. Here is how I fabricated it: 1) Created a paper pattern so I could mock up a few different looks and so I could guesstimate the arch I needed to get the right length. Probably made about 5 of them before I settled on this one. 2) Created a CAD drawing and output to DXF for a laser cutter. Then it took about 45 days to get the parts cut . . . what a pisser. 3) Took it to a friends (Times Welding) - he has a 90 ton brake and happened to have a big 6" or so set of dies to form a round shape. He used the brake like a big former - just set the strike at about a 3/16 or so then kept moving the part through the dies to slowly form it (then set it down another 3/16 and repeated the process). My guess is that he hit it a couple of hundred times to get the shape. I had a piece of bent welding rod to show the arc - so we could get the shape and the width correct. (I set the welding rod on the frame to ensure the arc and width was right). 4) Then started fabricating a piece to cover the front and add strength to hold the bend - bored a few air-lightening holes and welded it up. Having this piece added should really stiffen up the overall part. Then fabbed a couple pieces to fill in the corners - and welded them up: Here is the front completed and rough finished: 5) Then I decided that I needed to do something with the rear - didn't like the edge of the 3/16 plate. Decided to weld a "lip" all the way across it - so I could hand work it to look like a stamped/formed edge. Just used a piece of 1/8" x 1/2" steel strip - used an oxy/acet torch to heat/bend it . . . tacking it with TIG as I went around the shape. This makes the whole piece look like it was stamped/formed -- instead of laser cut (just looks a whole lot better): Here the lip is tacked in place in a few spots Underside Welded Complete rear view: Having this little extra lip across the back and the welds that go with it also adds some torsional strength to the part . . . plus it looks a heck of a lot better. Next post will show the finished piece setting on the frame . . .
Here is the rough finished part on the frame - I like the looks of it, really ties things together and fits the look of the frame (kind of an aero-space look . . . whatever the hell that means!). I'll probably have this piece chromed - would look nice given the curves and style of it. Hope you like it! Onto the final frame stuff . . . I'm getting close!
Yes I like it! ,that fits in with the rest of the frame nicely. I'd be happy with that for sure. Cheers RM
Outstanding! What an incredible amount of talent and ingenuity, to make a part you'll hardly see, and worth every priceless minute spent.
Much appreciate the compliments -- I'm just an amateur fabricator/builder . . . I learn a lot from looking at what the Pros and other HAMBers build. Of course, everything takes 5 times longer for me than I think, but I've learned that I need to be patient if I want good/creative results. I have about 14 hours in this piece . . . seems like a LOT, but if I had to pay a pro shop to do it, don't think I'd like the bill and probably wouldn't get what I wanted anyway. I'll update this post with some more frame stuff in the next two days . . . I can see the light at the end of the frame tunnel
Update: Added 4 gussets to strengthen the rear ladder bar hoop. I didn't think it was strong enough with just the two side welds -- so I added these 3/16 thick gussets. The pictures show them tacked in - will weld them today. I'm getting close to the end of the epic frame build -- feel like I've been in a 3 year "modern metal sculpture" cl***! Most of it was my own doing, but I'm liking the way things are turning out. I've now removed the engine and trans - to complete the welding . . . should have the frame totally completed in the next 1 - 2 weeks -- time to move onto the front/rear suspension. I'm making my own hairpins as well as the rear hairpin, spring hanger and shock mount brackets.
I'm with you as far as making something yourself even though a commercial part is available. As you stated you probably have more time in it than most would think smart but there is NOTHING like having a custom made piece. The kicker is when someone asks about where you bought it and the look of disbelief when you say you made it yourself. Frank
Nicely done. Home made or pro built something like that takes a lot of time. I can not afford to pay for work like that. So I do it myself and with the help of friends I get what I want. It's called traditional hot rodding.
I'm with you - if I want work like this, I'm going to have to do it myself. Also, to me what is fun is coming up with ideas, pondering them, drawing them out on paper and then working through the whole fabrication, fitment, weld, etc process. I like all the work . . . it just takes a lot of time. If I had to pay somebody $70 - 90$ an hour to do this . . . I could never even think of it. I'd have to settle for a cookie-cutter frame, SBC, etc. I have nothing against all the guys making/using these out-of-catalog frames or even the guys paying the big bucks to make the one-off stuff . . . I just like the work and the "art" of it all. Also, I'm constantly learning - that is cool with me.
I like this statement, says it right...all about the build. Nice enough to just scuff and clear coat...
As many of the others have stated, you obviously have turned out some top notch metal work on that frame. I also want to state that the design and execution reminds me of looking at a metal bridge, kinda late 1800's to turn of the century civil engineering kinda look. I would imagine that with all those gussets your ch***is will be able to handle any horsepower you channel through it. Very nice job. Joe
Thanks! Guess I'm really going for the true 'traditional' look - now affectionatly called "the bridge" or "locomotive" hotrod style. Actually, I never thought of that, but I see what you mean. This type of gusseted approach was/is so important to airframe design -- where they need to maximize strength, with the least material (weight) used (probably the same with bridge builders). I'm sure my frame weighs more than the typical boxed frame with a couple tube cross-members, but with the amount of lightening holes that I've used, it is probably not that much more - and it should have plenty of strength. It is definitely not the "minimalist" type of style or approach, but I'm liking it more that I'm about done with it. Better head out to the barn - lots of snow on the ground today (Ohio), have a full tank of Argon, time to fire up the torch!
The Jalopy Journal
