Thom, check out the rotor in the pic. It fires both plugs of one cylinder at the same time, with the use of dual points, dual coils.
I'm working on the aluminum alternator brackets. I also need to remove the B&M and Forced Induction logos off of the blower. As you can see in the pics, they really don't go with the build. I also need to replace all the cap screws in the blower, as the heads have started to rust. I'll use stainless cap screws as replacements. I'll post finished pics, then it will be time to polish all this aluminum!
Ok lets put some spark in this project !!! Using what we know lets make it happen. We know he is going use a GM ecm and fuel injectors etc. The distributor i recieved was a adapted 16 cylinder packard/caddy set up for dual rotor, dual coil ignition. For this injected set up we need a magnetic pulse distributor and will use a GM injected control module. So lets get er done. First a total rebuild check and clean tune etc as it was turning hard in the housing. A little clean up, polish and its fine. Lets machine up a chrysler reluctor to fit the existing point cam and carefully index a new mallory pickup coil. ( the chrysler unit was too tall to fit under the rotor... Weld up the old mechanical advance ( carefully as we might need to undo the welds someday ). The hard part is adjusting the pickup position to correctly index or phase the rotor to the pickup for correct timing etc. Plans are to only use 1/2 the pins on the cap ....will wire all them up for appearance but only 8 of the 16 are needed for this operation. It will fire every other one which actually helps this old system to prevent arc over with a later style coil. Ignition timing will be by ecm as well as spark retard for spark knock etc.....
Ok got er cleaned up and back together and on the test machine, the control module is wired up and bolted on a heat sink piece of aluminum and can be mounted anywhere you wish on the car . Care must taken for the wiring as they are polarity sensitive for correct timing etc. Using a scope and the GM wiring diagram it was correct the first time ....lucky day at Bubbas... The harness he will purchase from either Howell or Larrys Electric will plug into this control module and basically be a plug and play deal.
Are you going to run v belts or a cog belt to spin the blower? Really like the car and what your doin, thanks for the thread, and keep the pics coming.
<HR style="COLOR: #e5e5e5; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #e5e5e5" SIZE=1> <!-- / icon and ***le --><!-- message --> Thanks Gmc Bubba! That will be a HUGE plus for this engine and build! I'm always amazed at your work. Can't wait to get the dizzy for the '58! Quote: <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD cl***=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by 117harv Are you going to run v belts or a cog belt to spin the blower? Really like the car and what your doin, thanks for the thread, and keep the pics coming. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> Thanks for the kind words! I'm going to run a 6 tooth belt.The pulley is in post #48. This will allow some slippage, and a popoff won't be necessary. And hopefully, I won't blow the heads off! <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
<HR style="COLOR: #e5e5e5; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #e5e5e5" SIZE=1> <!-- / icon and ***le --><!-- message --> I put a Ford 9' in, with disc brakes. I still need to fab up shock mounts. I'm running stock springs, with lowering blocks. I'm not thrilled with this setup, as I think I can do better in the suspension/handling department. I'm looking at a Jag disc brake, posi setup. It would offer both better suspension and handling. Please give me some feedback/ideas on this!
Buddy, jag sounds good, but it can be relatively expensive to rebuild these rear ends and also to set up right with shims and pre-loads. You can also spend a lot of time getting your coil over shock set right for your purpose. If using any rear end in your Lasalle you may wish to also use a rear sway bar even on the jag or 9 inch set up. A friend of mine just got a more recent jag rear and installed the hubs and outboard brakes onto the early center section. He tells me it looks more tidy and gets rid of the inboard discs and disfunctional old style park brake arrangement. He just made up spacers to fit where the inboard discs were and by using the early arms etc which meant he could keep his track width within the hot rod range to suit his big rear tires etc. I have seen it finished and it looks sweet. I think you can be stuck for a selection of gear ratio's and LSD stuff, but dont quote me.
Thanks, I appreciate that! Russ, I thought about that, but I also thought about the ride/handling, and my economics. Wayne filled me in on a lot of aspects. A disc brake conversion kit for the car is $1495, and Im still stuck with stock suspension. On the rear, the Ford 9 is great, but again, stock suspension. <O Im really starting to like that E***Y auction site. I was able to get a 91 Jag XKS V-12 front and rear suspension. The rear is 3.54:1 posi. There is actually a very good gear selection, as Chevy gears interchange. Cost for both was $295. <O <O Both cars weigh about 3800lbs, so this should be the perfect ride/handling setup. <O Now, I just have to figure out how to mount the damn things! <O<OAny volunteers?<O
Buddy, most hot rodders remove the sheet metal cage and build a rectangular tube crossmember with a central kick up over the top of the pumpkin. You need to make a drilled place to match the bolt holes on top of the pumpkin. The trick is when mounting this plate to your crossmember ensure that you build in any angle to match your drive shaft stuff. Usually 1/8" or thicker tube is all you will need, the top pumpkin mounting plate should be about 3/8" thick or similar. Note that the original pumpkin bolys have a beveled shank up near the head so if you plan on using them just build in your bevelled edged holes into the mounting plate. The jag rear that you have maybe new but it is still the conventional style which is fine, the newer items have the disc brakes out board as I mentioned earlier. Your crossmember should look a little like a squared off model A rear crossmember for want of a better description. I will try and gets some pic's from my friend and post them for you over the weekend. The other thing is to keep the radius rods and rubbers etc, it is advisable to make longer rods if you can since you are custom fitting it. In an earlier project my friend installed vented rear disc's inboard to one of these rears and used modern front calipers out back and shaved the diff cover to get it to be more of a quick brake pad change thing, also looked tidy. I dont somehow think you have the time to play with stuff you just need to get it done. Make sure you have plenty of top of tire clearance as the top of your wheel swings in as it rides over bumps and if your clearances are taken into consideration you may get some tire s****e. I like looking at these rears but not sure about wanting to own one over the long term. Pic's soon I hope.
Have you got any pics of the hybrid Jag rear end? I had heard of this being done and was hoping to do the same - I am putting a Jag IRS under my '36 Hupp.
[QUOTE=38FLATTIE;475883 I hope I don't bore anyone. If anyone is bored, they're on the wrong board! Amazing work, you've got a lot of great ideas, looking forward to updates.
I just got to catch up with this guy and have my camera with me. I was hoping to try get the pic's this weekend if possible. If I dont post anything within a week just give me a friendly reminder. Russ.
38Flattie, Hope this post isn't too late. On your decision about tail lights, I think '39 Ford are too small. I think you need something to match the stature of your coupe. I would try to find something maybe like Studebakes ao late 40's Cad or other GM . . Just a thought. 41 Dave
You know, even after all the years of being a enthusiest, it's great to see this revival of sorts, back to the old school way of hotrodding/restoration, with a splash or two of new age to make it all come together nicely!!......I've allway's had a weakness for the less favorable or should I say popular models, which most definetly have there place in history, as well. They may be harder to build, do to lack of available parts, but I believe that just adds to there uniqueness..........awesome build man!.......keep up the great work!.......hope to get a chance to see it sometime. Later, Doug
I've been away for a few days, so I missed these. Thanks Russ! That gives me some ides. Thanks Dave. Nothing is set in stone for the taillights, so I'll check them out. Any pics of the ones you're thinking of? Thanks Doug! You're not far from me, so holler at me and we'll get together.
I've got so much going on with this project, I sometimes lose track! I've got the Jag front/rear suspension bought, and now I just have to get it here from Ohio. In the mean time, I'm real pleased with the way the alternator bracket is working out. It is all aluminum, and should polish up to match the rest of the aluminum. It will be a 'turnbuckle' type tensioner. Should be real easy for one guy to adjust, and I won't marr anything with a prybar! The alternator is for fitament only. It is a 200 amp, sigle wire. I'm going to polish up an aluminum cased alternator, then switch the internals from the chrome one to the polished aluminum one. For some reason, I couldn't find an aluminum 200 amp single wire.
Had no idea so many parts were available for these old caddy engines. The final outcome will be a very slick custom. Waiting to see more of the 144 blower.
Thanks for all the kind words! Parts are available only because HAMBers have made them. There were no after market parts, except for Cylone heads (cyclonekevin), and Burrell 2x2 intakes. HAMBers have made everything else, out of necessity. No, Kevin, It's a definate go! ( refer to post #19). I have an extra timing cover (I bought 2), and water pump cover. I mock stuff up with the extra parts, so no damage happens to the ones I will use. I don't want to damage my good ones while building the alternator bracket, or fitting the blower, intake, exhaust, etc.! Quote: Originally Posted by SAVAGE cool build.. i had not been on here in a while... Thanks Aaron- haven't talked to you in a while! You know, if you are not going to build that motor, I'll still take it off your hands!
I've started to change direction somewhat. I originally was shooting for 200hp, with 5-6lbs boost.I did a lot of soul searching, and started adding up pennies. I decided that as deep as I'm in, I might as well see what I can get out of this thing. So, now my target is 7-8lbs on the street, 13-14lbs at the track. To get this, I also think now I'll need a full port job, a crank girdle, and custom forged pistons, that will accept new style rings for sealing. These engines have a lot of potential, I think. Here is a pic, originally posted by rillecustoms, that shows the difference in the Ford rods(left), and the Caddy rods(right). The crank girdle should make a difference in this motor.
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