All bad jokes aside, I have a ford 9 inch rearend in my car, what tip or tricks/things to watch out for, do you guys have for replacing the pinion seal? I have done several on GM diffs, and wasnt sure how similar it was! And yes i did a search but didnt find anything on pinion seals....
Make sure the vent is not blocked. The pressures generated inside have to vent somewhere, usually the pinion seal.
get it good and clean and buy good parts...also make sure the yoke is not grooved.if it is ,the best way is to replace it,but you can get a redi-sleeve to install over the seal surface of the yoke....most GOOD parts stores will have it....
A lot of up front leaks are confused to be pinion seals. You might include putting silicone sealant on the splines of the pinion gear prior to installing the yoke. You will also need a small amount between the nut and yoke. It works. good luck,
Tell me about it!!!! I had mine rebuilt last week and about 10 min. ago i realized that the p***enger side axle seal is leaking!!!! the inside of my tire is soaked and the brakes probably!!! Im PISSED!!! BTW, its a 57 chevy rear end!!
Had a guy once show up in the ER with that same problem. His solution was a rubber band, which solved the leak problem, but lead to a whole nuther rather nasty problem, which we won't go into here, but suffice to say he no longer had a big 9 inch...
x3, me to! releaving the pressure stop my leak. extra note: if ya pull the yolk and seal, put some silicone sealant on the front of the yolk before pressing it back on. The splines on the shaft and yolk can also leak.
I'm with the vent guys. usually I find people bolt there brake hose to the axle tube using a regular bolt instead of the hollow bolt with the hose fitting
Do not torque the pinion nut to 220 ft lbs of torque pinion should require approximately 24 inch pounds of drag when new, and a slight drag with used bearings , but it's going to be tough to read with the rear ***embled. if you don't know what you are doing you are better off taking it to someone who does.the only time you should torque the pinion down is if they used a spacer instead of a collapsable sleeve but even then it is done to a preload
Nine inch rears have a crush sleeve that determines your ring and pinion set-up so when you remove the yoke to replace the seal you don't want to tighten the pinion nut any more than it was originally installed. I would use a beam type or clicker torque wrench to determine the present torque setting before removing the nut and when replacing it tighten it the same amount or just slightly more. As has been said before remove the seal, check the the yoke for a groove, clean the area and replace the seal with a small amount of grease in the seal lips. Use a thin film of silicone on the outside of the seal before driving it in and again in the splines and threads of the pinion before installing the yoke. Tighten the nut to the same or slightly more torque than before. If you don't have a torque wrench you can also use a punch or chisel to put a mark on the the nut and the end of the pinion so you can line them up when you tighten the nut (I've used this method on a rear end that I have 50K miles on).
I had one leaking one time and tryed clearing the vent and all it did was run everyone out of the room...Mmmmm, maybe the wrong brand of pork-n-beans?
************************************************** Check the tires..........off-road 4X4 stuff. I'd have to guess he dropped the nose onto a rock and started the fracture, then torqued it up a batch to finish the job. Roger
dropped on a rock? You'd have to SLAM it on a rock...that's some wild carnage right there! I've seen the axles twist off in one that had a locker-both axles! This is ********!
If your doing a pinion seal get the "Benda" neoprene pinion seal. Named after the Ford engineer that designed it, Ford motorsports, summit or jegs has them. And pack the backside of the seal with vasaline to keep the spring from coming out when it's installed.
Before you fry your bearings go to Richmond gears site and read how to install gears, there is no magic ft lbs number, every crush collar acts differently if you had an 8 3/4 0r dana type rear that uses a shim you could tighten to a ft lb measurement, but 9 inch rears use a collapsable sleeve and once you go to far you throw it out and start over
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