I'm planning on buffing out my paint in the next couple days, just wondering what you all use / think is the best product? Thanks
It's part of what I do in my business and I've had really good luck with 3m products, both their compounds and buffing pads. Remember to use a low-speed buffer (1000-1500 rpms).
My local paint sales rep works closely with 3M on giving them product feedback and marketing their products, and he says they just have gone downhill in the last few years in their buffing compounds. He's had local shops that buff out a black or darker car with 3M stuff and when they park it in the sun it showed a haze, the products just were't doing the job. Rather than lose these customers, and having little support from 3M, they started looking elsewhere for a replacement product. Something he showed me on some of the newer 3M buffing products, is to look at the ingredients. The first item is normally the largest quan***y, and although they seemed to omit it in the english version, the spanish ingredients list AQUA as the first item. That's right, water. Ever wonder why so much of it slings off? Here's the new product they are now carrying, and it is night and day over the 3M stuff I had been using. He actually came over with some samples and gave a demo on the new buffing system (as well as the 3M Trizact). I think the biggest difference in this product line is that the various compounds are designed to use with a particular pad, they are designed to work as a system. Then each subsequent step continues to refine the finish, no guesswork. The pads are even color coded to their respective compounds to ensure guys like me who suffer from CRS diesease get it right! http://www.prestaonlinestore.com/co...acturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,26/ I'd see if your local body supply carries this and ask if they can give a demo, I've been very impressed with it, especially in conjunction with the 3M trizact system.
#-m Perfect-it and white foam pad. Foam pads are slower, but it's almost impossible to burn the paint using them.
smartshopper has a deal right now you get the hole 3m system for around 100 bucks hell one bottle is 42 bucks around here .. 3m is the way to go .use a yellow pad
try the complete PRESTA system it is a 3 step system which is a little slower to get an end result but there are no fillers in that line that cover up wheel marks.when u finish buffing with there system and wash your car you wont get wheel marks returning in your finish.the whole trick is to use ther recomended pads for there specific products and follow the instructions for specific RPM on buffer for it to work right(there buff pads were so good 3M just purchased the company that made them for PRESTA)
+1 for 3M perfect it system and 3m ultra fina on black and dark colors. Cuts well finishes to mirror gl*** shine.
i own an auto detailing shop, and recommend 3M, , , i've tried 'em all, and 3M is definitely the best there is. . . .a little pricey compared to other products, but worth it.
3M hands down. As far as going down hill??? They work with every major Paint Company when they are developing and testing new products for todays clear coats. All the major paint comapnys call out thier products in the bulletins. They spend tons of money on R & D before a product is released into the market place. REMEMBER sand scrathes dont come back, they were never gotten rid off. As far as a Haze are you sure it wasn't dieback from the painter hammering it on too quick?
Evercoat sells the Body magic (the guys that invented clay bars) for about half of what 3M sells for, It all water based, no fillers, works great. ( check your 3M bottle for"paraffinetic resin" thats wax in english) Actually, there are a ton of great products out there (3M included) But the best thing you could do is find someone willing to demonstrate technique, and follow that until you develop your own . One reason 3M has been a heavy hitter lately is because they have been Demoing the heck out of their products for the last few years. I'd talk to your local paint store and see if any body is doing any Demos in the near future. Mirca sandpaper has been running the" Abrilon" system for more than a decade, Its a foam backed(no pigtails) abrasive that runs on a DA and goes to 4000 grit, 3M Trizact is just a copy of that...minus the foambacking. You know, The more I type, the more I think a good demo is worth.
Malco or Presta . Use a true wool pad for cutting and then the color coded pads for swirl removal and final polish. No fillers in these products. Also make a mixture 1 to 1 of rubbing alcahol and water. When done buffing squirt on the surface and then wipe off. this will show you any areas that need more buffing.( procedure not necessary with presta or malco products. This washes away the fillers that are in most products so you can see the true results.)
Had the same problems. it gives you a great finish but it came back as you said. Some have said that the scratches were never gone.I have run into this problem before over the years and real look closely to make sure there gone,And they were gone on the 3 cars I did with the 3m system. I have gone back to my Fracula(spelling) system and having no problems. I blame most on the fact that paint have change so much in the last 15 years. Clear coats are no where as hard as they use to be and seem to be a lot softer.There was a time if you water sanded a clear coat finish and left it for a few days you had a hard time bring it up.If you got it up at all.You had to water sand and buff the same day. These days I open up the finish and leave it open for 2 or 3 weeks to let it breath.With all the harsh chemicals taken out of paints they remind me some what of the old enamels.take for ever to dry completely. I want my lacquers back!!!
it gives you a great finish but it came back as you said. Some have said that the scratches were never gone. This is do to the fillers in the products. Talk to a Presta or Malco distributor and they will explain this and or give you a demo. In my opinion these products really work. I work in a collision shop and buff almost everyday.
On clear coats I've been using the Sears Craftsmen brand buffing compound. It's cheap and has worked really well for me.
What do some of you recommend for final wet sanding (grit) before buffing? single stage Concept. Ago <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
We make a product to help prevent this from happening. Our Wipe Down Inspection Detailer can be used in the buffing process to prevent the compound from just filling in the fine scratches. It will allow you to see if you've truly buffed them out -- or just filled them in. We sell a lot of it to body shops along with our polymer based compounds - Finish Cut and Turbo Cut and our Shine Master swirl mark remover and breathable polish.
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