Working on a 50 ford custom and i got a new masterc ylinder the old one blew a seal due to the pedal getting pushed to far. How do i bleed the master and the brakes on this thing?
For best results & time invested ...... first bench bleed the master OFF the car. On a bench in a vise. How?? Easy - NAPA & I'm sure a ton of others have the bench bleed "kit" that includes plastic ******s that will thread into the master ..... attached the rubber hose(s) to it/them (if it's a two line unit) ..... then run those hoses into the master itself. Fill the unit with fluid. Take a screw driver or blunt metal bar & actuate the masters cylinder (at the rear that bolts to the firewall). Whilst you do this you will see air bubbles from the end of those submurged hose(s). When the air is out .... it'll stop with the bubbles. NOW you can install on car. Bleed the cylinders from that point individually - fartherst to closest. That's it. You'll need a extra set of hands (well feet actually) to pump the pedal after to complete the second process. Hope that helps. PACO
this master is an orignal one line master mounted underneeth the car there are no bleeder screws just a line out the back. how do i bleed it?
plunger in the front from the brake pedal, single brake line line coming out the back, cap screw on top. stock master for a 1950 ford tudor custom.
read paco post again. you only need 1 hose because that all there is, 1 outlet - fruit jar M/C didn't the M/C come with a plastic ****** and a short hose? you bleed it before you install it on the car, in a vise plastic ****** and a rubber hose acting as the brake line hose into M/C where you fill it with fuild fill it with brake fuild now look at the back of the M/C see the hole where the brake rod goes in? put blunt rod/screwdriver in there and push, not too hard, do it a few times make sure you keep the M/C filled with brake fuild watch bubbles - no more bubbles your done good luck and welcome to the Hamb wayne
I guess the first question should be, "Do you know how to bleed brakes on any car?" The procedure is much the same whether it is a 50 Ford or a late model. Bench bleeding the m/cyl is a good idea, but it isn't mandatory. Install it, fill it with fluid. Pump it a dozen or so times. You won't feel much of anything. That's OK. Get your friend to sit in the car. Go to the right rear wheel cyl. and loosen the bleeder. Snug it back up,semi tight and have your friend begin pumping the pedal. 10 or 12 pumps should do it. On the last pump, have him hold the pedal to the floor and open the bleeder. You may or may not get a piddely little squirt of fluid. Do not despair. Do it a few more times. Then do the left rear, right front and left front. As you do each wheel, the pedal will become firmer and the fluid will squirt out with no bubbles. You can use the rubber hose in a gl*** jar technique. I don't because I can never find a hose and a jar on the same day. You may have to repeat the procedure, but probably not.
yes i do know how to bleed a brake system, this is not my first rodeo , just my first time on a 50 ford where everything is new to me, i was just making sure there was no special way to do it. thanks for every ones help
I had one of those lever action pump oilans. I filled it with brake fluid and would pump the fluid to the master cylinder from the wheel cylinders. I bought a mightyvac and use that instead. if everything is setup right, your master cylinder should be the highest point in the system. air bubbles rise to the top. Sometimes I field bleed the brakes. I just fill the resevoir and open the bleeders at the wheels and go for a sammich. air rises to the top, fluid drains out the bottom. shut the bleeders and it should be good. If not ...pump a few short strokes and hold it down. the air will rise to the top of the pressurized fluid and when you release pressure it will be forced out of the piston chamber into the resevoir. Yes it is actually possible for one person to bleed the brakes just by pumping the pedal with the bleeders closed...if you do it right.
I put mine in a vice, ..and with 2 short brake lines curved to go back into the respective resivors, i fill up the MC both front and rear. Fill it up and push the 2 curved brake lines down into the brake fluid (below the level) and slowly pump the piston back and forth complete strokes, with a socket wrench extension with your hand. go slow..and push and release until all the bubbles are gone. 30+ years of doing it this way, I have never had a problem with a good MC
My 2 cents would be to upgrade your master cylinder .Get a 2 reservior for front and back brakes .If your rear brakes fail you will still have front and vise versa .In pa it wouldnt p*** inspection with the stock single reservior master cylinder .( but nobody really looks anyway ) The upgrade isnt hard at all .here is mine for my 47 ford http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz200/tromollo/Picture1309.jpg
If it was my car i wouldnt keep this master or the engine or rear or frame or suspension. my buddy just wants it to run and stop and be orignal.
Vigorous pumping will introduce more air into the system.Two gentle pumps and holding pressure while you bleed. Do not pump 10 or 12 times, it is unnecessary. If you don't have the plastic bleeders that come with rebuilt Masters, just get a duplicate fittings that screws into the back and make a short piece of tubing and bend an arc back into the master so that when you hand pump it goes back into the master. Gently pump by hand until you don't see any more bubbles. Then install on car and bleed individual cylinders starting with the furthest from the cylinder as already mentioned. My system.
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