So, you'd think it wouldnt be all that hard, that after 47+ years they'd have all the problems ironed out... NOT! I began looking for a reman carb for my '63 Grumman Kurbmaster, 292 I6. Whip out my handy-dandy GM shop manual on the computer, figure out that the 292 take a Rochester B #7023013, and that was the only application for that carb. Start off at the Holley website, since they are the recognized name in the reman game. Worked my way through the online catalog to my application, sure enough, there it is...then I just happened to look... the same Holley # is listed for the 230 motor. Huh? How does that work? Does the 4.8L motor get a carb meant for a 3.8L motor, or visa versa? Carbs aint tube socks... Holley defended this suggested use via email, and only backed off when I asked them which carb I would get, the one with the 1 3/4in throttle bore and 2 internal bowl vents, or the one with the 1 9/16in throttle bore and 3 internal bowl vents... then suggested I send my carb to them to rebuild. Not likely. Holley isnt alone, every parts house has it listed the same way. I did find that AutoLine, a Canadian reman outfit DOES show a different part number for the 292 and 230 carbs. Now, to find one...no parts shops 'round here sell their products. ARGGH!
well this is the obvious answer but why not rebuild it yourself its far from hard it never leaves your hands and you can compare and contrast every thing with the new kit versus the old one i would estimate that around a hours work
I do have a kit, but now have to question whether it will be proper for the carb, given that the shop I bought it from would sell me a carb based on the 292 and 230 being the same. Have to re-shop the kit to be sure it is for the 7023013 My carb is also leaking around the top, caused by warpage most probably {common fault}, and having a reman hopefully would not be there. My plan is to rebuild my carb down the road and put it in shelf stock...question is...is that carb actually a 7023013, or something meant for another motor? Have to pull it to find out...
OB1, I just can't resist..... Do as sic says , rebuild it yourself. The normal fuel level for your carb is well below the top/main body split. It is leaking because the float level is too high, most likely due to trash in the needle and seat . The other big factor is the factory float. I would also bet that it has a plack plastic float that has absorbed some fuel. The gas formula that we are forced to use is murder on this type of float. When you finally get the real # from YOUR carb, order a replacement float from NAPA...Be aware that you have to specify a BR*** replacement. They show them for most carbs. Good luck Dave BTW, I would not be surprised that someone in the past had installed the smaller carb trying to increase the fuel mileage..The 292 makes gobs of torque, but never got great mileage.
That lil 292 is pressed pretty hard, the Kurbmaster was converted to an RV way back {probably 1970}, sure would be nice to maximize power and economy. I have put 4K miles on it in my 1st year. Rebuilding my present carb {if correct} is a given, and judging by the difficulty I am having finding a 7023013, reman or core, I will be continuing trying to find one. I like shelf stock! Comes in handy, whether I'm working on my modern dirtbikes, my cl***ic BSAs or This Old RV!
Unles your carb is completely shot - ie - a severely corroded or damaged casting, worn out throttle shaft bushings or wrong or missing parts, etc, you'd be far better off just buying a kit and rebuilding the carb yourself. An early-'60's 1-bbl Rochester is about as simplre as they get and easy to do. That's only way you'll be sure of getting the right carb for your application and also, getting one with all the right internal parts like jets, etc.. I suppose it depends on the company doing the 'remanufacturing' and how conscientious they are , but a lot (if not not most!) "off the shelf" 'parts-store available' reman carbs nowadays are done offshore, in India Vietnam, China and elsewhere, where the people doing the actual work rebuilding the carbs have no idea what the thing is they're supposedly "remanufacturing" and don't know or even care about the consequences of mixing, subs***uting or using substandard parts. As for Holley being - quote - a "recognized name in the reman game" As far as I'm concerned, they're "recognized" alright...but not in a good way! I honestly don't know what their reman stuff is like nowadays, but I know that 15 or 20 years ago, a lot of their reman stuff was absolute junk. Holley did their so-called "remanunfacturing" offshore - I think in Taiwan - and they put out a lot of real garbage. Back then you could buy a so-calld "Remanifactured by Holley" 4-bbl carb for bit less then half the cost of a new Holley 4-bbl, but getting one that would actually work was a **** shoot.. Some did and a lot didn't. I remember tearing into a number of these 'Holley reman' carbs for buddies who had bought them and then couldn't get them to work Some of the stuff I found was almost unbelievable. It wasn't just stuff like having 'wrong or off-spec' power valves, jets and diaphragm springs etc,. That would be bad enough, but often it was major stuff like stripped and leaking fuel inlets, stripped and/or bent idle screws, stripped float bowl threads and warped metering plates and warped, cracked and/or severely corroded. base plate casting!. I don't know what Holley's reman products are like now, (surely they must have gotten somewhat better or they'd be out of business!) - but because of my experiences with them going back 15 and 20 years ago I haven'tt touched their reman stuf since. New stuff, yes, it's great - but you couldn't give me a so-called "Remanifactured By Holley" carb!. Mart3406 ================================
Definitely fix your carb. Most problems have a solution. You should be able to straighten your warped air horn. Follw this post as most pertains: http://forums.cl***ictrucks.com/70/...ding-rochester-model-b-carburetors/index.html Horde a couple spare 292 carbs. Also, later 292's use the monojet 1MV. For example, a 71 292 uses a 7047126, tomco rebuild 1-207. The 292 1MV is also bigger and has a 1-1/2" venturi in place of the 250's 1-5/16" venturi.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9e65d89c http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/70-7...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a37d3d6d
If you ever did the economic ****ysis of a rebuilt carb you would realize why some of them are not very well done. You have trouble getting the cost of rebuilding from the buyer, so what you do is clean dip it, wash it, and put it back in the box! then you guarantee it to work and all the buyer has to do is return it for redoing or exchange. this is not for an individual who rebuilds for you, but for the companies that do that! TraderJack
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