Can anyone identify this ******* bars ? Are they universal fit ,they have several patterns on the plates ?Are they worth a damn? Thanks for the feedback in advance ...
i am posting on this cause i am curious too. i have a set that i just put on my international. my ? is that the back tab with the 2 holes are close to the spring but the front is pretty far away(3-4 inches) i have the ubolts tightened down for the rear, just not sure what to do with the front and rear leaf spring tabs
I put a "U" bolt around the spring and through the holes in that front tab and double nuted the threads ,its more or less being used as a guide to keep the traction bar from trying to move side to side ,but its not actually touching the spring just sitting there.Noone seems to know much about ******* bars nowdays ,but im gunna give these a try on my Dart dragcar.If it doesnt work ,i will change it to something that does.I know a guy thats getting 1.30 60 foot times on these same bars...
The reason for the front u-bolt is to keep the bars from dropping down and hitting the track surface on deceleration. You should be better off using spring clamps to lock all the leaves together on the springs front segment. An adjustable pinion snubber, with the leaves locked together is how most mopar super stockers got it done. with the springs clamped, the front segment acts kind of like a ladder bar set up. Im nor sure of the exact reason, but ******* bars dont work as well on mopars as thay do on gm vehicles. i suspect it has something to do with the front segment of the leafe spring being much shorter than the rear' where gm springs are symetrical.
i was using a set of ******* bars on my falcon and got ok results at the track. i switched to shelby style bars and found the ride on the street improved and my 60' improved slightly.
Yep clamp the front part of the springs and remove any clamps on the rear. It works as good on Fords also. This is not my car I had the same thing but a formal roof line but look at the spring on the back side of the tire and see how the leaves separate looks like a copy of my Torino Cobra jet off the line. Same thing ******* bar in the front with clamps and no rear clamps click to enlarge photo by member mcinic (sp?)
You are correct on ******* bars being not very popular on Mopars.Most in the past used super stock springs or clamped stock springs as you mentioned with a pinion snubber.My car hooked pretty good before with low 1.6 60 foot times ,but the springs were wrapping something terrible.It was rolling the shocks under the rearend to the point they had dents in them from the housing. All im after is something to limit how far the rear springs can wrap and keep the pinion angle better aligned .A pinion snubber would proly do the same thing ,but the third member form the 8 3/4 in my car doesnt have the holes for bolting the snubber on (it came from a pick up ).The other reason i like the lift bars is becasue they are more adjustable side to side than a pinion snubber ,and because it pushes up against the spring eyes instread of the floor board ,in a further forward location .Im gunna give it a try with these ,if it doesnt work than i will most likey go to Cal tracks and Mono leafs ...
The inner holes on the main plate are for the normal U-bolt and the outer are for "J" bolts which several brands came with, the "Pro" version of a normal ******* bar, in front on the bottom is a angle iron looking bracket welded on, that is where the front of the J bolt mount would go. And the front strap is to control the down movement under extreme braking, the rear is for fine tuning of the "lift" of the bar. These bars were know when tuned to raise a car with slicks 4-8 inches! This rear U-bolt could be tighten or loosend to help limit the lift. Lift to a limit is pushing the axle down, too much wasted motion up is time lost off t he line. Good bars when set up right. Seen several 9 second cars run them back in the day! Newer tech just obsoleted them, but still the best of ******* bar technology. I went mid 10's with them back in the day on a street car with slicks. Seems like Lakewood and several others made them.
Lots of cars ran ******* bars, some of them real quick. Last time I checked, you can still get J bolts and parts through Lakewood. One thing you might consider doing, if you decide to run them, is to extend the bars where the snubber hits the spring under the eye/spring hanger. A lot of the bars hit the springs a couple of inches back, and they load the spring hard enough to bend the spring where they hit. Larry T
Mine are set with the snubber right under the spring eye and there is zero lash with me in the car.Im not sure how its gunna work or not work yet (since i havent raced it since the install) ,but i know its gunna keep the springs from wrapping up like before ,and should transfer lift better IMO ...
Yep, they made a world of difference on my Challenger. The Mopar elitists always rag on 'em, but they worked fine for me! Essentially the same thing as an adjustable pinion snubber... You can find 'em at most swaps around here for $10 to $20.
Ran a set of lakewoods on my 67 Mustang back in high school. Had a set of cheaper ones first can remember the brand. the cheap ones kept breaking,saved up and got the Lakewoods.
The Jalopy Journal
