Projects Slingshot/Rail Dragster/FED

He's so dreamy

and he's right its pretty easy ,,few pieces here and there and..

 

Lippy speaks the truth!!!!! I've seen it done.

Kerry, we need more update pics of your car!!!!!

 

The front axle is suspended by a single 1/4 eliphtic spring. I put the spring over the axle tube first then made the axle afterwards. It works well. I think there are some pictures of it on my website which shows at the bottom. This picture was resized and lost some perspctive in the resizing. This picture makes it look wider than it is.
The rad is from a Dodge minivan and it runs just above 160 F .
With the mild street engine but 6 snowmobile carbs it ran 8.40s 1/8th mile. It was simialr with the fourbarrel but I havent had a serious pass on the new setup quite yet as the last race where I was scheduled to attend was scrubbed for me due to a family deal. I will have to wait for next year. I have not yet shifted it but let it run with the auto doing the shifting. I was too chicken to take my hand off the hand brake. I spent days training myself to drive it with my brake hand so I could shift and then didnt get to go racing anyway. I can give you a better answer next year. I believe it should at least do 11s in the 1/4 and that is my goal for next season. After that? Well you know!
It handles well and sure is fun to drive. Fans love it and i often have to wait wile they get pics before i can get out to load it. It is a wonderful toy for a wornout old racer.
Don

 

Everyone Thanks for all the info I really appreciate it.
I am sure most of the people reading this thread have either owned or own, built or just drive these cars any pics of how to or just pics of cars that you have would be appreciated for thoughts and ideas because I am sure more people will read this down the road.
Thanks again Trevor

BTW what is a good weigt ratio ie 50/50 and or should I plan on being able to move the engine forward and back to make sure the front does not lift?

 

I think in the "old days" the weight was 70/30 by the rule book - not sure if that applies today.

Mine is around 80/20

 

Kerry, you are insane.....hummm, how about more on this project????

 

Mine is 50/50. Total weight is 1400 pounds. So far i havent had to worry about lifting the front wheels but i live in hope!
Here it is last year running at the nostalgia meet at Shannonville Motorsports Park
http://www.dropshots.com/Dolmetsch#date/2008-10-14/08:01:07

 

80/20 must get most of the weight on the rear wheels. I bet thats fun! I will probably be more close to 60/40 due to how short I want it. Kinda like Dolmetsch.

 

Skotz, here's the latest...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=413858

 

I get a lot of talk from newbies about the car being that short but it really runs straight as you can see from the video. Not needing a trailer is wonderful BTW. I can load it all by myself in about 5 minutes with a small cheap winch although I usually have a big bunch of folks helping me which i find wonderful. They seem to find the old style 6 cyl car interesting. They chauffer me around the pits in their golf carts. Push me up the staging lanes, help me load and unload. Get my time tickets while I sip on a Barqs Root beer. It makes the whole deal a lot of fun. One Alky racer even hooked up his battery charger to my car while i rested, all on his own accord ,just trying to look after "this ol guy". Old friends (and new ones) an old style car, wind in my face once more and not a lot of $ spent. I am sure yours will give you the same experience. All the best in your build. Should you want to ask anything feel free although I am sure you already know what you are going to build and how.
Don

 

I'm glad that someone brought up the Pontiac Trophy 4. I started out planning to do a HA/GR powered by one of those little rascals but due to a couple of recent developments, changed over to the concept of doing the same power plant in a Chassis Research TE-440. The biggest problem, as someone mentioned earlier, is getting that chassis to be remotely safe by today's standards while keeping the vintage vibe. Pontiac offers more advantages than most makes for the vintage 4 and 6 cylinder crowds because just about all of the V-8 speed parts bolt in the 195, V-8 cranks, rods, pistons, heads, intakes (with a little fab work) etc., the choices are many. It only takes about 325 HP in this type of car to run 10.00, and can be done on a reasonable budget.

I think there is a growing trend to do exactly what this thread is all about and I'm glad to see it. There will always be the hardcore racers, but many people are getting tired of spending ridiculous amounts of money to go fast. I like to race, but I like to eat, too. You can build one of these style dragsters with your own signature on it, for relatively minimal coin, and still have fun. And that's what it's all about.

 

"I think there is a growing trend to do exactly what this thread is all about and I'm glad to see it. There will always be the hardcore racers, but many people are getting tired of spending ridiculous amounts of money to go fast. I like to race, but I like to eat, too. You can build one of these style dragsters with your own signature on it, for relatively minimal coin, and still have fun. And that's what it's all about. "

You are so eloquent. Never heard it said better
Don

 

eat old Kentucky Dragsters, check out kentuckymotorsportshalloffame.com

 

http://www.dropshots.com/Dolmetsch#date/2008-10-14/08:01:07
You asked is it solid welded to the frame or not. The front axle is fully suspended with a 1/4 eliphtic spring and full shocks etc. The car runs 8.40 at 87 mph in the eight with the street engine. It should be capable of low 11s with its current engine and that is my goal . The full build is on my website listed below and a run on the old engine is on the Dropshot links above.
I am building another rail now (because I need something to work on to keep me occupied) I am not getting rid of the other. I love it and everytime i walk by it I still give it a loving pat. It is a wonderful toy for me. People seem to enjoy seeing it and watching it run. It also has headlights so i can run at night races too. Last time out i used them. it worked fine. (You can see them in the picture beside the gas tank.)

 

go for it the only people that will laugh are the ones not worth bothering with.When I started my altered I didn't know where I would or could run it built it to sfi spec and to look like 1970's. when I helped my friend with his fed he was the only one and with a street sbc 9x30 slicks ran 6.50 and he hot lapped it like he was on a oval track, in the fall on a cold rainy day we had 4 feds and one altered and more cars are being readied as we speak.

 

FED feaver is all over!

 

YA thats all good but let a PRO builder your car that way it will have the look and it will work.By the time you do all the running around and having to make a jig up. you would have wish you just paid someone like KING CHASSIS to build you one..

 

I really appreciate your whole outlook on this subject, it has been such a pleasant surprise to see so many people looking toward the core "fun" aspect and the satisfaction of creating, from an idle thought to a sketch, a few quick calculations and then the final project sitting in front of you (to stay in your memory for good).
I am in this early stage. Having some suitable material sitting in the workshop and an engine under my bench I began to assemble all of the passing ideas I had been having for many years. A low budget slingshot style car.
The engine in my plan is totally out of place in this forum, I'm not even sure if I will mention too much..other than 600cc, 98hp/65ftlbs Torque, 140lb weight (inc g.box).
The style of the car/chassis would be similar to the fantastic early 60's Mooneyes car that came to the UK to demonstrate drag racing. However the weight will be an absolute minimum because of the engine size. Now for another eyebrow raiser! I would like to braze or bronze weld the frame, this is a medium I am used to and was always common in many 50 and 60's circuit cars and racing bikes. I am not sure how this method would be accepted though? The rear tyres are also going to be a little different but perhaps in keeping with the early hot rod/dragster style. My work is with the vintage racing car world (pre '39), there is a really excellent supply of cast off, large dia (28"OD) treaded race tyres and wheels of a 5" width, ok for a little motor I think? The wheel size would look quite appropriate on a little 90" Slingshot. Please don't condemn me too much for the motor choice, my dream really would be an American V8 but I just can't run to that for a few years.
Thanks for a brilliant forum and attitude, it took a deep breath to post these ideas.

 

in the UK they had a lot of small engined dragsters, as for the brazing yes it was used but with casting with tubing inserted not tubing butt welded together.
what motor do you want to use?

 

When I first started building dragsters in Australia in the late 60's we used mild steel and gas welded it together with nickel bronze rod. We never had any problems and as you note, this was the method of choice for a lot of road race cars in the UK. Just make sure that you use nickel bronze as regular brazing rod is too soft.

Roo

 

Roo/ Jeff, yes I agree with the nickel bronze, if I use the bronze weld method I will remember to do this, thankyou for this comment.
I just happen to have a Yamaha 600 Thundercat........ there I said it... hope you guys don't outcast me too much, maybe building this will lead to a much wished for V8 for the next step .
I will always be careful to make sure that any bronze welded joints are within a supported or triangulated structure, always avoiding unsupported butt joints. Having said this I am not sure what might be accepted even for bracket racing. I built a sprint bike in the early 90's (in a traditional style with a single cyl methanol speedway motor) this has nickel bronze weld, the frame hasn't been painted I just polish it from time to time, it does mean I can watch carefully for any sign of weld failure. I also drilled holes and coated the inside of the tube frame with boiled Linseed oil to protect from corrosion. My biggest worry with this set up was the accute high frequency vibration, so far so good tho.
I realise that it would not be prudent to produce the roll protection with bronze weld, a trip to a cert welder for this bit.
Interestingly, I think that bronze weld is not accepted in the light aircraft industry although I have seen it in a Piper Cub tail section, maybe a field repair?
Thanks for this forum and support.

 

Trying to figure out how to post pictures

 

"YA thats all good but let a PRO builder your car that way it will have the look and it will work.By the time you do all the running around and having to make a jig up."

When i saw this quote i didnt realize i could still get this angry! If that is your way fine! Chassis guys need to make a living I guess but they all started out this way too. They were not born with a tig welder in their hand and a set of drawing stuffed inside.
I for one and absolutley "FED" up with Store Bought Racing and hot rodding.
I listen to my wealthy friends talk about "just phone up so and so and have him build it." What fun would that be?????????????
In fact was talking with a friend today who told me a local racer here paid $65,000 for his roller chassis and trans and recently spent $75,000 for a ppro mod style motor. I mean COME ON!!!!!! . We race locally for $500. This doesnt make any sense to me. I get enjoyment out of building and designing. Whether it is my engine or my chassis. What I cant do i find a friend to do. More often then not he needs some motor work or some lathe work or some part I have and it all works out. We all help each other where we can. But the "just buy it" guys are not hotrodders. And they never will be. Why not just go to the trophy shop and buy the tropy too. Rent a room at a swank hotel and hold your own winners banquet. Have caviar even. Probably if you have enough money left you can even rent a escort for the evening.
Don

 

kentucky slingshots at kentuckymotorsportshalloffame.com

 

Ericarchie have you started your project? what are you using for a rear axle or how are you going to hook the motor to the wheels?

 

Thanks for all the support on this thread. I have been having some rough times so haven't been on for a while. Please continue with more picks and ideas. I still have a dream hope it comes true.

 

Just an idea here. Go ahead and build a chassis the length you want from blueprints, SPE, Mark williams ect, something tried and true design wise. Build it out of chrome moly, have a friend Tig weld it up or pay someone. Homebuilt aircraft guys are usually pretty cool and will help you out. The chassis will then be able to handle anything you want to put in it later. Cause you will want to go faster, trust me. Put any engine you want in it, but put a rearend that will handle some power, 8-3/4 mopar, 8 inch ford ect... My point is since it cost money to build any car you might as well build a chassis that you won't have to replace later when you are ready to step up. If your goal is 12 sec et's then build a 7 sec chassis and put a 12 sec engine in. Don't waste your money on a mild steel chassis then find out later you want to go faster and it won't cert. Trust me, I can build a chrome moly chassis for not much more than a mild steel one. Up to you, just some rambling thoughts. Lippy

 

You asked me a while back if it could run laps. Two weeks ago i ran it and did three runs back to back. Just pulled into the lanes on return and ran again. No problems. It ran the same as last year. I have contacted Frank Lupo about a converter for the car as it leaves a bit flat for the first 30 feet. otherwise i am thrilled with it. The more i run it the more i like it. Even made a no hands pass (forgot to steer between 12 shift and 23 shift) The car went straight as an arrow and the wheel never moved. I was shocked to see my right hand on the brake and my left on the shifter. i remember thinking "who in blazes is driving this thing?" So much for the Short Cars Dont Handle Well theories. If you design the steering and aligment right they work perfect. I think it is a car i can run for several years and still enjoy as I nibble away at the ET
Don

 

Gathering parts for this dragster. Its a 140 inch. If you see anything I could use that you have for sale let me know by PM message. Looking for a Hilborn set up, zoomies, 2 gl moon tank. I have a 331 SBC for it but thats it. Thanks 4 the help! Rob