whos the best touble shooter on the hamb ?

ok Motor 220 international, 12 volt, I fired it up last week for about 5 seconds , by use of starter spray and cleaned the points with fine sand paper and it ; after a few tries it fired up .

I replaced the coil, wires, rotor and cap, and tried to fire up . no dice . Im pissed ok so i ran a wire from pos on batt to pos on coil and jump it at the soleoid , and it cranks but wont fire up . must have tried 50 time ... and 2 times i got slight attempt to start.

facts:
1. i using spray and fuel .. , tank is not hooked up.
2. I have juice going to the coil
3 . juice going to the dist.
4. should the points touch completely? when car is off ? mine have a gap that would allow a sheet of paper to slide through . how do i know if i need points .

tried it with test light, batt is good , fuel is new.
what is my problem ?????????? can some one help

 

Do you have spark at the plugs? Use a spark tester or ground out a plug and see if you are getting spark. Are the plugs wet? Wet after so many attempts would show that you are getting fuel to combustion chambers, but they also may be saturated and need to dry out. The points should only be "open" when the actuating cam pushes them open. With the cap off, turn the engine over and see if they are opening and closing or just open all of the time.

 

how open is open ? i can slip a peice of paper between them would that be open ? ok so i gues my quetion is when the are closed the should be like completely touching right ? like you wouldn be able to slide a peice of paper through?

 

Jake the points do need to touch when they open and close. Have you checked to make sure you are getting a good spark? You can check by pulling a plug wire and stick it back on an old spark plug, now with that plug laying on the engine (where it can be grounded thru the block or head or metal) crank the engine over and watch for spark. If that is too much to do...just grab the end of said wire, crank engine,and it will let you know if it has fire!

 

change spark plugs,and re adjust points there should close tight, crank without the cap you sould see a smal spark att the points.

 

The points must close completely to ground the circuit for the coil. Its the making and breaking of the circuit that causes the build and collapse of the field windings inside the coil. This induces a secondary voltage in the coil which comes out the tower through the coil wire.Proper point gap setting is a must for the spark to be induced at the proper time and strength. Of course you know that the induced spark is then distributed through the rotor to the proper terminal inside the cap then through the wires to the plugs. In the dark with the cap off you should be able to see a spark at the points when it is being cranked over.

 

Squirrel will nail this one....

 

Sure you got the wires on the cap in the right order?

 

A good compromise for points gap is a matchbook-thick gap when fully open.
A decent spark at the points indicates a bad condenser.
Pull a wire, put it on a spare plug and ground the plug body. Crank and check for spark.

Cosmo

 

ok so i will try this .... so say i dont get spark at the plugs ... what then ? points ??...

 

yup wires are right .

 

Points grounded on both sides or (less likely) shorted condensor. Voltage at the coil connection that goes to distributor should be present when points open and absent when points closed (referenced to ground).

 

ok so say i go out side and crank it , with cap off ... i should get a spark at the point right ? i hope they dont call the cops .,.. ny neighbors hate my cars

 

Just to make sure..

When the points are open, the lobe of the dist shaft should be touching the little block on the back of the points.
If they are open on a flat spot, they are open too far. They should be closed at this point.

A matchbook cover is about the right thickness, but may not be exact.

Make sure your firing order is correct..and make sure the #1 wire is on the #1 plug tower on the cap.

Is the battery properly grounded? If to the engine, there must be a ground to the chassis from the block.

 

Three things needs for combustion: Air, Spark, Fuel.

We'll assume you have Air since you're manually adding fuel / starting fluid. Next is spark...work from the plugs back. If no spark, then check out the points. If that's Ok, check out the condensor, then back to coil, etc. Also, double check you have the plug wires routed correctly (you may or may not note "binding" while cranking if the wires are out of correct sequence).

Here's a decent article on points: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa052502a_2.htm

 

No spark.check points coil or condensor.

 

Crapy naighbours

 

Here in sweden they just love open pipes in the midle of night,of a big block chevy.
No realy they hate me to

 

ok so i just froze my ass off .. I just tried with a new spark plug .. and i got spark at the plug ! ... The plugs in the truck are new too.. so where we at now ?

 

no gas

 

I gounded the plug to the fire wall . and the ground is good. when I tried to crank it it seemed like it took too long for the plug to spark, i used the 1 cyl wire off the coil

 

Cold outside ,How's your choke set up .Also If You have matches fold the book in half ,Should be close enough to get you fired ,Fold book of matches in half ,The cover will do ,Turn distributor by hand it wont move much ,Just make sure it opens the points ,Slide folded over matchbook cover in between points ,Then after that fire it up .A cheap roadside trick ive learned ,

 

take a plug out and sheek for gas on it

 

but i swear i put the wires the same way.....

 

If you can, find the bowl vent on the carburetor..it should be a little tube sticking up out of the top. Cut the top off a soda can and pinch it like a funnel so gas will go into that vent. Pour some in. you are filling the bowl of the carb, so it will run a little longer if it starts.
You can move the linkage to see if fuel is pumping at all.

the problem of using spray, is you spray it in, run over to the battery or key, and by the time you do that its all dissipated. Same if you pour gas down the throat of the carb.

Have your fire gear ready, since if you spill some gas it could ignite upon backfire. But a little gas can be blown out easily. If it pools up wipe it up with a rag before you try to start it. Obviously move any gas soaked rags out of the immediate area.

 

The way i got it to fire the first time was by spraying the carb, closing the choke.

 

If you used the coil wire to check for spark, that was a rookie mistake...use one of the regular spark plug wires...it sounds like you've either got your plug wires on wrong, you spark plugs are wet or your points/condensor failed after sitting and finally running again...when was the last time the motor ran before you started tinkering with it?...

 

I've put wires back on before exactly the same way that they came off, and the car ran like shit. The previous owner didn't get the firing order right. Double check your firing order and make sure that you're getting gas.

 

Either no gas...or too much! Are the plugs wet?

 

If you have spark at a plug that's good. Rule for points, if it starts with a Ping they're too close and if it won't start at all they're too far apart. Spark at a plug isn't everything, try and prove you have a plug wire wrong, try and prove #1 is off time or not, just a double check since "it ran before you touched it". Spark, compression, gas. Plugs wet or dry?