Hi Guy's, I started mocking up my AV8 1930 Sport Coupe today. I have a 52 Mercury flathead and C4 transmission. The Flathead came from a car so has the passenger style water pumps. The Hamber I bought it off threw in the engine mount they were using on the car along with headers etc which I want to use as much as possible. Any reason not to use the engine mount? The engine will be running an alternator so I won't be using a generator mounted fan. The problem I am having is with spacing for the fan assembly on the engine. If I space it right to give clearance from the radiator then it looks like I will have to modify the firewall, is this normal? I have also read about moving the body back an inch or so. I don't have this option as I'm going to run fully fendered. Here are the pictures of the front pulley assembly and the motor mount mocked up in place. I know I still have to clearance the front crossmember for the crank pulley. I did a search on here and saw some comments about flipping the firewall, how easy is that to do? Thanks, Alex
You need the truck water pumps and rubber biscuit style motor mounts. Cut out the mount that is on the frame and fabricate mounts stub frame mounts out of 2" x 3" rectangular tubing. The motor should fit. You will have to trim the front cross member for clearance.
We had to do a clearance modification to the bulkhead in my coupe, otherwise the RHS head gets way to close to be able to remove if required. Please, if you are going to recess your wall do it sympathetically and not just cut a square hole in it.
You will have to convert over to a pre 39 generator that has a fan mounted on the generator pulley "tapered shaft" if you don't want to put the engine into the firewall. I have also seen 39 up generators converted to use a "spin on" pulley with an after market integral fan hub. Jason...
The book " How to build a traditional Ford hot rod " by Bishop and Tardel covers most all the questions you will have. Yes on the truck water pumps.
Screw the fan, I would have compromised my design too much. Besides the alternator cop out, I use an electric fan. Not so scary doing distributor stuff, I don't use a hood, and I don't need it to run all the time.
I have the book already, but the measurements it gives seem to be way out. I have a set of truck water pumps but the pulleys on them are bad, got damage during shipping. Anyone know how to remove the pulleys? Alex
I agree about ditching the passanger motor mounts and going with truck pumps, this just makes things easier. As for the firewall, I personally think flipping the firewall looks like shit, don't do it as it restricts the interior space which you need every bit of space you can get in an "A" Coupe. Cutting the firewall...........if done correctly...............will look really nice and nobody except a Model A person will ever know. Who's C4 conversion is on the motor, if it is a Speedway you will most likely have to modify the firewall and floor since it uses the stock bellhousing..............If you have a Flat-O just make sure you use the truck mounts and place the top of the motor mounts 1" below the top of the frame or you will also have to modify the floor a little. As for using a fan........................I know this is not traditional, but it makes placeing the motor a lot more difficult if you don't, in fact you can (if you use the truck pumps and side mounts) get away without any mod's to the firewall (using the Flat-O adapters) or floor. If you use a fan shroud you hardly see the fan and electric fans cool better than anything else. If you are worried about taking off the heads with the motor in the car then you will have to modify the firewall. Personally, if I was going to take the a head off.........I'd take the motor out of the car................ It also depends on what kind of headers you are running and what type of steering........ just mock everything up before you make it permanent. IMHO
Hi The C4 has a Flat-O conversion on it. I have a 1954 F100 steering column that I am going to modify and use. I have been looking at your build. Very nice. Alex
The Bishp Tardel book used the earlier 59A type motor which has less issues about fit. The 8BA type is just enough longer to make you scratch your head. I think I would modify the firewall before moving the body back. The other alternative would be to extend the frame in front and move the crossmember forward a couple of inches. Another approach is move the radiator forward with fabricated mounts. If you want to use a stock hood and fenders then the best idea would be to move part of the firewall back using one of the available indented firewalls. If none of these ideas suites you then convert the front of the motor to a 59A style ignition and use the generator fan as was mentioned previously. The 59A type pumps will work with some small modification and the 59A heads can also be used with some modification. There are several threads about firewall clearance on here if you search. Kerby
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