Anyone here work on this type of blower? 1. Front bearing plate to rotor clearance when running gas? 2. Rotor timing adjustment with the straight cut gears?
No kiddin on big. It would take 700hp to make 50psi boost with that, not to mention the million dollars for the surrounding top fuel parts to bolt on around that huffer!
I appreciate all of the constructive suggestions above, however only even remotely addressed my questions. I have discussed the blower with BDS, they designed it specifically for alcohol with mechanical injection, I am using gas & carbs. As far as the other comments ???
Well how about letting us know what you've got up your sleeve with this blower? Is this going on your BBC in your '46? Are the rotors teflon stripped? Are you going to have the teflon strips shaved? For street? Those strips are only good for a couple p***es at best. Just wanted a little more info on what you're after as to better my response. Steven.
if you discussed it with bds, then you should have all the info you need, straight from the horses mouth. Any thing we tell you would only be an educated guess
pm slickvic nearby you .......... also John Force Racing here in socal has blower shop dyno >someone is there even when they are on the road.......
Hello there, have been resoring blowers for over 20 years, theres no secrets about this, im from sweden in europe so you cant shipp the darn thing here but you will have to have 0,15-0,25 mm clearence in front and about 0,8mm in the rear, if the white and black strips isnt to tight it will work ok. (To make it simple, if it turns easy by hand its ok) And it doesnt take much more power to make 15psi with this one then a 6/71 with 15psi, end of storie.
Actually, the 8-71 I took off went to sweden... Note that this has straight cut gears. I haven't pulled the gears off yet, but I am curious how they time the rotors. I am a little concerned about the rotor strips all the way in the back, they may melt since no fuel is being injected in the last 3 inches of the rotor... Thanks for the good info.
The newer compe***ion blowers have a fairly small top opening compared to the length of the rotor, apparently it makes the blower perform better at high O.D. ratios, but it makes it difficult to fit on three carbs. So I found a guy who does pretty nice milling work for $25/hr, and had him cut a bunch out of the blower case. I paid quite a bit for the blower, so I am a little nervous about how this is all going to work out.
It looks to me like there are 2 choices on timing the rotors: multiple keyways or someone has an adjustable jig and then cuts the keyways specific for that unit. Blown gas units for the street usually have several thous. more clearance than a race blower. The teflon strips won't melt. They will be flattened and your clearances will be larger. That looks to be a V series case. I've never seen one like that. What application would that have been for?
It was supposed to be a Pro Mod blower. The bearings in the back are much bigger than my old 8-71. The front gears are much wider than the 8-71 gears. It has a pilot in front & back for the bearing plates, and the bearing plate bolt pattern is not the same as typical 8-71's (I had to make my own idler mount). I had the rear bearing plate cut .010" taking the rear bearing clearance from .016" to .026" I haven't taken the front plate apart yet.
They probably think what I am doing isn't going to work (they may be correct). I may talk to them again, but they basically pushed me towards a local BDS dealer, however he has advertised prices that are outside of my budget.
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