I have a 350 with stock internals, performer manifold, edelbrock 600cfm, and HEI and I have to replace the lifters so I figured I'd throw a new cam in there while I have the heads off. Question is, I'm looking at the Lunati Bracket Master II cam/lifter set but the duration is 290/300. Is that too aggressive, because if I'm not mistaken my compression ration is ~8:1. Can anyone steer me in the right direction?
too much duration for 8:1 - back off into the 270-276 advertised intake duration area. What do you have for gears and torque converter? Long tube headers of an appropriate tube size and and length? Pocket porting on the heads?
Like I said, internals are bone stock and stock th350. Buying long tubes and 4:10 gears. So what do you recommend? RV cam?
I am by no means an olds expert, but a 350 cube motor with low compression and a big cam is going to be a dog. the edelbrock performer plus cam specs out like this: ENGINE: OLDS 350-403 V8 RPM RANGE: Idle-5500 Duration at 0.006" Lift: Intake: 280° Exhaust: 290° Duration at 0.050" Lift: Intake: 204° Exhaust: 214° Lift at Cam: Intake: 0.280" Exhaust: 0.295" Lift at Valve: Intake: 0.448" Exhaust: 0.472" Timing at 0.050" lift: Open Close Intake: 4° ATDC 28° ABDC Exhaust: 49° BBDC 15° BTDC Centerlines: Lobe Separation - 114° Intake Centerline - 106° I think this is a little much but would work okay with a 2000 stall converter and 8:1 compression - it would work great with some bowl porting and 9:1 compression though.
I was planning on supercharging my 350 so I was going to keep my compression low, but I've come to realize that Olds Blowers, manifolds, etc. are EXTREMELY hard to come by. So maybe raising the compression is the way to go.
The last thing you'll want on that stock engine is a huffer. The bottom end might hold out but the stock piston design won't take the punishment unless you were running very minimal boost. If that was the case then your huffer would just be a show piece. Go with a little less duration and at least a 750 cfm. The only way you'll get higher comp. ratio is change out the pistons. Comp cams website has a free software that you can download called "camquest" where you can enter the specs for your particular engine and it apparantly gives possible cam choices and a ballpark figure on the kind of hp and torq curves you'll end up with. A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush.....but if in the bush a fair maiden should stand....a push in the bush is worth two in the hand.
what are you trying to achieve? like said above, the bracketmaster cam will not work well with your combo... pick a mild cam, headers put a curve kit in the hei no offense, but the performer manifold isnt any better than the stock manifold (it is lighter)...switch to performer rpm wich will be good with later modifcations a shift kit, skip the rv version... and the list goes on and on......
A 72 block is a good start but 410 gears is way to steep. you have a torque motor! the 270 cam is a great street cam now the other thing keep it at 9.5 any higher and you have to up grade your dist,advance,an HEI stock olds works good, remember the olds dont have adjustable rockers! 350 gears are good all around gears, the intake is the big key to HP on an olds, remember you want midrange, what headers are you using and what pipe size?
Will keep tabs on this thread myself. Running a 73 Olds 350/350 in my 55 Olds. Port/polished with a few tricks on the performer intake under the Q-jet. 280 comp cam and crane fireball ignition. Shift kit 350 to 3.23 rear. Hedman headers through 2 1/2" pipes with bullets. Mainly just for cruising, but no slouch.......... Guessing my way through without much experiance. Seemed to luck out so far...........
Find yourself a set of 67 330 heads. The casting number is #4 located above the left end water freeze plug in the head. They have the smallest combustion chamber of all small block Olds heads. If you want, larger 2" intake valves can be installed. Do a little pocket porting, remove the AIR bumps in the exhaust ports, have the divider welded up to make the ports individual and run the long headers. Use the performer intake or use a factory A4 intake (they are almost identical). If you can find an older OL4B Edelbroc, it is even better. Use an HEI if you use the performer or A4 or use a Pertronix if you find an OL4B. Rebuild a good Q-jet and tune it right. You will have a very high torque small block that will stomp a 350 Chevys *** every chance it gets. Don't run more than a 3:42 rear either.
Don't believe everything you read about Olds engines. The #4's will flow the same as #5's, if you have the 2" intakes installed and do the port work, plus the advantage of the smaller combustion chambers makes them a better choice IMO. True the #5's came factory on the W31 cars, but they had the 2" intakes from the factory.
72 Cutl***, you do realise this is a pre 64 traditional hotrod and custom site? You came on without an intro and flood the posts about this 1972 cutl*** bs wanting to build something you cannot afford. Your thread about your carb running rich you mentioned you are broke, therefore you can't take it to get it looked at. If you are that broke, you can't afford to get your carb fixed then you can't be building an engine either. You car doesn't belong. I suggest you find a musclecar, olds, or cutl*** forum to post this car on.
Rv towing cam ,PERFECT SET UP FOR GEARS THAT ARE 256 ..... I had that set up in my 69 olds rocket 350
The edelbrock performer cam is a good set up, high quality, and cut for an olds ( some cam grinders use chev specs on everyones blanks) Their timing chain set is my favorite too. Also tell the Traditional guys you have red rims and whitewalls, and and they might stay off your back. ( please dont put red rims and whitewalls on your 72 )
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