Can you use the original steering column even though u have upgraded your suspension to a MII and power steering?
Guess the question would be: what is your original steering column? I've got a MII front end and a mid-70's Chrysler Tilt-a-scope column that is really a GM Saginaw unit. On top of that, I am running a 3 spoke Lecarra wheel-but they had to specially modify the hub so that I could run it. So, what've you got?
Yes, Cut the shaft off down by the original box. Then grind the inner shaft to fit a DD u-joint. Attach the outer tube to the floorboard with a flange bearing. Hook up steering linkage as needed.
Here's a really informative thread about this exact subject, on a '48 Chevy coupe: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294910&highlight=shorten+column&showall=1 Note the McMaster-Carr bearing info, very helpful. .
huh? with a mustang II front suspension i would ***ume you would want to use the mustang II rack and pinion
maybe it's the Korbel , but this is not making any sense to me. you said in your first post that you have mustang II front suspension...is that correct? they don't have a "steering box" , they use a rack and pinion. maybe you should post some pictures
I did this on a Merc column. I cut it off the original box then I had to shorten the column itself about 2" so I would have some shaft sticking out at the bottom. Then I added a support bearing in the bottom and secured it with a collar. I had a hell of a time finding a bearing and finally stumbled on a wheel bearing for a wheel barrel and it was just the right size.
The procedure would be pretty much the same on any vehicle on which the original steering shaft is an integral part of the steering box (as opposed to having a rag joint, U joint, or other coupling. The main things are anchoring the bottom end of the steering column tube where it p***es through the floorboard or firewall so it can't move around (since you took away the original support when you cut the column and shaft free from the original steering box, supporting the shaft at the bottom end of the tube with a bearing or bushing so the shaft doesn't flop around in the tube, and then adapting the stub of the original shaft to take whatever coupling you're using to mate it to the new steering box, rack and pinion, whatever setup you're using. An industrial bearing supplier can fix you up with the bearing you need (outer diameter=inside diameter of column tube; inside diameter=diameter of shaft; take a center punch and hammer to make a little dimple in the tube on each side of the bearing to lock the bearing in place. Any machine shop can cut splines, D or Double D, whatever you need to mate the coupler to the shaft.
Thanks 3Window I learned something new today that Power Steering and Rack and pinion are two totally different things
I've done this several times using the shaft we make for our early Ford style columns. I put a br*** oillite bushing in the bottom of the original column (sometimes can't find the right sized brg) and use the original brg at the top. Our shaft is 3/4 OD with a tapered and keyed top and a 3/4-36 spline bottom. Has worked out good to date.
Holy wet behind the ears batman. - Yes you can use your steering column if cut - Yes you will need a PS pump - No I will not do it for you I am a novice at best.... but this is pretty easy Google search stuff.
The GM Pump will work, but puts out more psi than you need and will probably make the steering twitchy and "Over-***isted". They make pressure reducers to compensate for this. I'd get an adjustable one so you can really dial the feel in to your liking. Here's an example: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjus...eBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase