Before getting x- member or adding one, to a 32 frame. What should be i looking for beside the rust and cancer issues? Does it make a difference if the cross member is from 41 ford and a 44 ford? Or should i not add one at all.. ? School me on this.. Patience and willing to learn..
I would X the frame. I don't think using a x member from a later frame would matter. If you have it or it is cheap why not. Some people box the frame and not truly X it but they are using a couple of tubes as a X to tie in the ****** for strength.
I like doing a 34 frame x member if your not running a flat head. Riley automotive sells nice repro 34 x members made to go into a 32 frame. I like them because they look traditional. and Riley is an alliance vender
How much is a "Traditional Kit X member"? 2nd Question is.. how much is it when you put a "Real Steel Henry Ford Built Traditional X Member"? I would choose Henry Steel over a kit so it looks like it traditionally belongs there. There is a difference to me that you can tell the difference of a traditionally built Kit car V/S a traditionally built car. I like the look of old steel but that is just me.
I've seen some that had channel added behind each side of the 32 K-member to X it out that didn't look too bad, if your planning a flat head build. The late 30s early 40s X-members work well too if you have one on hand and can't afford a 32 K-member.
Project is a high boy body 30-31 ( still pending ). Frames is a 32 , now i beened reading on the x member done on model a frame , just how good will the 41 member work out with it? Or i need to get a 44 x member or i'm just thinking over it to much and just need to do the damn thing..
What are you planning to use for a drive line? Knowing this makes the choice much easier. If it is a flathead with early trans and banjo rear, I would stay with original K-member. If the choice is something like a small block with automatic trans, call Eric at Riley Automotive and order a C.E. X-member for 180 bones and be done with it. Either way, frame boxing front and rear would probably be my choice.
no sbc, no auto trans.. i got a 48 caddy flathead. ford 40's trans. have not decided on the rear end , most likely a banjo.. so the k-member would be better than the x member for set up?
SAVED A LITTLE $$$ HERE I decided to use what was at hand because of $$$. I boxed my '32 frame and recessed the plates about 1/4 +/- inch inside the edge. Plates run from the front cross member to the rear cross member as usual. Running a T/5 so I made the center crossmember out of two square 1x2 tubes running from side to side of the rails with two gussett plates (one on each side) welded vertically between them - of course we had to drill the appropriate round holes therein! The top tube was solid from side to side and the bottom tube (about 4" below) also ran side to side but we cut out the center area (6-8"?). At this point I made the ****** mount plate that is removable and bolts directly to the bottom square tube. Next came a bracket to hang the pedal ***embly (late '40's truck) and the MC. We "triangulated" this ***embly with sections of mid '30s Ford x member ('36 I think?) running back from our "drop out" ****** mount center area of the crossmember to each of the side rails. These two had the large factory holes! It's a mix of old and new pieces and, I think, looks the part. A '48 Caddy motor? Thats sweeeeeeet! Post us some pics!
I'd use an X-member for sure with the torque of a Caddy flathead. You might consider a T5 trans too with that motor.
Not sure where you're gonna find a '44 Ford crossmember, Henry didn't build many '44s. The one you're looking for is the '35 to '40. They're plentiful, cheap, and provide you with ****** and pedal mounts. It's a common install into Deuce frame rails. Do some searchin' here on the HAMB.
The B*** "Wade Model A" frame is a great example of the 35-40 X-member in 32 rails: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=336494
I have made alot of frames at work and at home. With a 32 K mamber it is alot harder to pull the trans. That can be a big thing with a early trans. Plus it is hard to find and costs alot to get 32 pedals etc. (I have a way to put 33-34 pedals in that makes them work better then 32 pedals in a 32 frame). If you use a 33 and later the trans is easy to change. And parts are easy to find. If you use 39 and later the pedals can be the ones that came in the frame (just change to a dual master cyl). It is really easy to fit the later X member to the 32 frame. Tho with the 32 frame I would set up the parts and see if I could find a frame jig to weld them up in. You can fit the parts at home the find someone in your area that has a jig that you can tack the parts togther in. A 32 K member is alot of money the later ones are cheap some times free. Plus they make the fram much more rigid then a 32. Racers did it years ago and it was in early hot rod books as a better way to do it.
Here's what I did, I'm using a ford V8 and stock 39 trans with a '32 mount. Kept the original Kmember intact and added two folded c-channel legs to the rear.
duh! i stored the b*** thread.. damn.. why i did not remember.. great sample.. and thunder, great sample too. now are all the x-member the same size?
Hey thanks! 33-34 are the same, 35-41 will interchange, and 42-48 are the same... Obviously, ALL will need modification to fit a deuce frame.
There are a lot of ways to do one. I had Gary Maxwell at Blackboard Hot Rods in Bakersfield build mine with the correct pinch for a 30/31 Model A. We used the Ch***is Engineering 32 x-member sold by Vaphead at Riley Automotive. The CE x-member is very similar to the 33/34 and 35-40 units. The bottom plate/transmission mount bolts in. I also used split 35/36 front wishbones and Pete & Jakes ladder bars. When you build a hot rod there are a lot of places where you can cut corners and upgrade later. The frame is not one of them. Take the time and pony up the bucks to do it right the first time. In the total scheme of things the extra bucks it takes to do the job right will be a good investment. Gary is a good guy and he will work with you. Give him a call. http://www.blackboardhr.com/
How do you get the transmission out when in the car on the picture above? Will it drop out from the bottom or do you have to pull the whole thing out in one?
We on a roll here...good loking out. Youngbloods.. Now for those wishbone.. and ladder bars To be added to the frame is totally to my liking of year or do i need a specific year / lenght that can do the damn thing?
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