recently picked up a 55 f 100 pickup which is gonna be my shop truck ! clean truck originally restoration began in the 70s and suposedly the engine was overhauled ! anyways i'm a v8 guy all the way and this truck originaly came with a y block but now has the 223 6 cylinder so i figured what the heck maybe i'll leave it alone for awhile and do the swap later ! anyways don't believe it was a fresh overhaul after removing the valve cover and seeing a little sludge but a new carb rebuild and some tinkering and we have it going ! one of the freeze plugs was leaking so i took it out to replace it and the water pasages are full of rusty scale ! whats the best way to remove this ? i have the radiator out for repair due to leaking and have since pulled the motor to give it a little detailing with some paint ! power washer and blow the stuff out ? any ideas greatly apreciated ! thanks brock
Muratic acid was suggested in another thread- plug op the holes, fill it, then let it sit for a few hours and rinse with water. You can add some baking soda to the rinse to get rid of all traces of the acid.
i was thinking sompthing along the lines of muratic acid but this is a complete engine still together , would'nt it eat up the gaskets etc. ? happen to know which thread it was ?
Beings you got the engine out pull the soft plugs and pressure wash. Then use Oxalic acid and then a rust inhibiting antifreeze. I think muriatic acid might be too strong for your old gaskets.
I do all of my Lincoln V12 blocks at a redi strip tank which removes all rust scale build up in the water jacker p***ages and also muratic acid. Or you can have it put into an oven where all the rust will fall off. Frenchy
again this engine is still together ! i'm not looking to tear id down just an easy way to flush out most of the crud ! eventually this truck will be getting a v8 so i just want to get the 6 up to snuff for now !
So , I take it you don't want to tear it down ? A local engine builder here ****s the water p***ages with an old dipstick before boiling the block . He told me boiling it alone doesn't always cut it .I suppose that may still be helpful even if you're not going to boil it . ^^^^^ I type slow .
I did one at the car wash--Took all the freez plugs out and used hi pressure. Takes a little while and I had mine in the back of the truck on a motor stand so I could rotate it. Bottom line it came real clean -Installed marine br*** freez plugs and never had any problems.
The guy who suggested muratic acid did his while it was together- didn't mention any problems with gaskets. Mine is out and mostly degunked. Next step is the muratic acid over spring break.
why not pump it full of mol***es? after i was at stude-freaks place with dubcee and rubberodder i would have laughed at using mol***es to de-rust metal but watching actual parts being removed and rinsed off it really added to "mmm factor" of this process.
try hoisting engine up by the bell housing end ,with waterpump and frost plugs removed, and work a piece of wire from the waterpump opening. be amazed how much rust and scale can be dislodged
I used vinegar in my flathead....mixed with water and ran it for a while. Drained and flushed with baking soda/ water mix. Flushed with clean water several more times....runs much cooler now.....
Is there a product that can be used to coat the water p***ages so that they won't rust (glyptal, etc), or will the antifreeze eat it up? I know it's a far-fetched idea, but thought I would ask.
The stuff Prestone sells as a flush is just citric acid. You have to neutralize it by flushing it. The Antifreeze has the right stuff in it to keep it from rusting further, just make sure you change it annually.
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