Those two go together hand & hand ! If you want the brakes to work correctly and at peak performance , then spend the small change and install some new pads also ! Just a thought ! RetroJim
On another note. Get the premium pads. I've never understood saving less the $10 (usually) and putting second quality parts when so much is dependent on being able to stop safely. Frank
You are already in there.If you don't replace them you probably will always wish you had while you were doing them.
I'm gonna disagree here. This has happened to me on an OT DD. Don't know what happened, but all of a sudden, I got all kinds of "throbing" in the brake pedal. Took it apart and the problem was seriously warped rotors. Went to the parts store and got quality AMERICAN MADE rotors. Put them on, looked at the pads, and they were hardly worn. Put 'em back in and everything was fine I had this happen on 2 late model MOPAR products, and no more problems (I wonder why Chrysler is having business difficulties?). BTW, I'm a firm believer in low or middle cost pads; In all cases except the above, it's a lot cheaper and easier to replace pads than rotors.
how old are the pads ,how much pad left ,if you have the extra cash do it if not ,just turn them,check your caliper slodes also. if you have uneven surfaces on the rotors i would replaced them or you are going to get some noise until the pads smooth out .i always install wagner quiet stops ,good pad and lifetime waranty
I had the counter guy pull out the 5 or so levels of pads to see how they looked quality wise and where the Americaqn made ones started in price. The first ones for 12 bucks looked like they were formed outta pressed Kingsford Briquets, had to go to 27 bucks to find a good sintered American made pad. As for rotors, I gave up on them. Replaced warped rotors on Carlas dailys several times and the new/expensive rotors didn't last long until they did the same thing. We just run good quality pads now and run the rotors until they need to be replaced.
Well, I just got back from autozone. Its was a lot cheaper than I expected. I thought it would run me about 300 for two rotors and pads for both sides. It was exactly $150 and some change. I paid 37 I think for the all the pads in the front. and $100 for 2 rotors. I just hope nothing else is ****ed up. Ive been running like this for a couple of months. Low funds at the time.
well if they were going on some rice burner i woldnt care but on the hamb we build quality hotrods and customs so i wold say go with new pads also i meen come on its your ride dont you want the best you can have ?
Also, the new rotors might not be true or in spec. You should have them checked and/or turned before you put them on
Bedding the pads, seasoning the rotors- do it. http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm Flushing the fluid would be a good idea also.
I agree with astro chimp's link. I own my own garage, and only install wagoner thermoquiet pads. Never have them come back to me with any issues. I use nearly the exact same break in technique described in the link, and have no problems. Another trick I learned from a brake pad manufacturer, is that when you have rotors turned(which I do not believe in), always rinse them with soap and water prior to installation. The little metal shavings can cling in the grooves in a turned rotor, and will quickly embed themselves into the new pads, which will lead to pad chatter and squeal.
When I road raced I tested brake pads for a manufacturer and they told me always replace the rotors when you replace the pads and the the binding agent in the pads has to also be in the metal of the rotors for the pads to be 100% effective. That is why you bed in new brake pads. If there is another compound already in the metal they may not be compatible. So with the pads already heated up a few cycles I would replace the pads also. By the way at Blackhawk raceway near Rocton Il in our 81 Mustang ITB car we would destroy most sets of pads and rotors in 30 minutes of racing.
Your front rotors warped for a reason. One is not allowing yourself enough distance to stop..like my wife does. Slam on brakes 10 feet from the stop sign. The other is the rears (if drum) may not be adjusted properly, so you are running mostly of fronts. Not sure what calipers you have, but make sure the slides are clean and lubed. If GM, make sure the little o rings that the hold down bolt goes through are good, and lubed as well. Hold down is the big hex head bolt (X2) that you remove to get the caliper off.
HAHA, love that tampon quote bosco! Its so true. Lets throw on some gucci interiors in our rods and see what the guys at the car shows say!
True about rotors warping from flash cooling, a good reason to avoid deep water puddles. I'd like to point out that the cheaper pads are usually organic, and it is these that provide that nice darkness on the front wheels we all know and love. However, I have grown rather fond of the carbon metallic pads, as they don't do this but they do require a fresh cut on the rotors, no way around it.
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