I have already put new floors in my truck, now it is time to build the trans. tunnel I know how I'd like to do it, but I would need to bend the metal to do so. I am using 11 gauge (.125" thickness) sheet steel. I do not have a slip roll, brake or even a torch for that matter. Will this be impossible to bend up by hand? Am I better off to fabricate it with multiple flat pieces?
It'll be difficult to say the least! Why so thick??? Even 16ga would be overkill - 18ga or 19ga is probably factory. Since the part is curved it'll have plenty of strength at the smaller thicknesses.
I say your best bet would be to work out your measurements etc. then take it to your local sheet metal place and stick it through their roller. Probably wouldn't cost you that much!
11ga is going to be a ***** to shape. just do 18ga like everyone else. you can bend that by hand around an oxygen tank or other large curved item, like a phone pole.
I am using 11 gauge because that is what I have. I used it for the floors already. I know it is overkill, but I didn't have a bead roller and I wanted it to be plenty strong.
Get your dimensions werked out and go to a HVAC shop, probably cost you less than $30 to have it done. I agree 16ga is plenty
Yes. make it out of cardboard or something, put it all in place. Make sure you do this. then even bolt it all in place. THEN bring it all to your local sheet metal shop and have then cut and bend it for you etc etc... probably be crazy surprised how cheap it is to be done at the right shop, and you won't even have to buy the metal. wil
I hear the word "strong" being used alot by guys building cars and find most often that they are under the impression that thicker/heaver materials mean STRONGER. this is not always the case...just don't understand the TANK mentality. So many cans have overdone subfloors and extra/addded frame support, ya have to wonder what extra weight these cars are carrying around and how that makes them any safer? when you're going down the highway at 60 mph and your wrapped in 70 year old tin, whats a extra-super-duty floor gonna do for ya? just my opinion.
what this guy says, but id put the piece inbetwen a couple of things and drop somethin real heavy on it.
I don't necessarily think that the thicker metal makes it any "safer". I did not want the floors oil canning everytime I sat down in the seat. If I had a bead roller, I would have used 16 gauge. Thanks for your advice though.
If you use lighter gage steel you can roll it over your leg. Save the weight and the money paying someone else to do it. John www.ghiaspecialties.com
16 guage would not need bead rolls either. 18 guage might need em. I'd go spend the 50 bucks to buy a sheet of 20 and go with it. as for rolls with no machine,, check out my tech week winner. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=435411
If you could make your transmission tunnel in narrow sections, rather than one big piece, I would cut the strips longer than I needed and wrap them around a telephone pole or gas bottle. That will put a bend in the middle then just trim the flat spots off the ends. Did that forming Inconel several years ago. Low tech but it works.
Since you think you must use 10 gauge, and do it youself, you can do it like this (***uming you are not trying to make a 4' long tunnel, but just the firewall to floor section. Cut a strip off the end of your sheet of 10 gauge about 16"-18" long ( any longer and you will have trouble forming it). Take your 16"x48" piece and lay it on your welding table with it hanging off the edge. Take a piece of heavy angle or channel, at lest 2' long and clamp to the table over the 10 gauge, placing a small s**** of 1/4" steel between the angle and the table. Your 10 gauge piece should slide in between the two. slide about a foot and a half out and start pushing down (or up, doesn't matter). Slide it out a bit and repeat. Keep doing this until you have the size arc you want (should be roughly U shaped) and cut out the section you want to use.
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