Repairing old steel wheels-rims

I did a search for information on this topic with no results. I just bought a set of the hard to come by 50's Gennie style wheel with 5 on 4.5" pattern, one wheel has a spot that has rusted through the size of a #2 pencil.

I know I've seen oversized valve stem holes welded shut and redrilled to the newer 5/8" size. But what about a small rust through spot on an old rim? I'm only ***uming that it can be cut out and repaired also. If fixed "correctly" will balancing be and issue?

If anyone has pics or would like to post some repair tips, here's your thread.

 

If it's rusted through in one spot, I'd wager that it's getting dangerously thin in others.

I'm ***uming that it's the hoop that is rusted, in which case I would recommend cutting out the center and throwing a new hoop on it.

 

I've completely ground the entire area and only found that one spot and the adjacent areas to be only pitted. I thought I would cut out that area too. In all, it would include a 1/2" by 3" strip.

 

Sandblast the wheel first, so you know what's really there. Then give it a try. Check for true and balance when you are done, but be prepared to throw it away if suspect.

 

I had a center-bent steel wheel that I couldn't find a replacement for and no one local to straighten it. I sent it to the below company who not only straightened it, but was easy to deal with and had a fast turn-around. If you need any additional information, please let me know.

Rim and Wheel Works
50 Sun Street
Waltham, MA 02453
781-547-5826
800-261-0495

 

Their website is: rimandwheelworks.com

 

I'll have to second that. You can always cut the center out and have them re-hooped. I'll have to have that done on a set of wheels I just bought.

Gets a little tricky when they're aluminum centers in steel hoops though.

 

Or just cut off the lip, and replace it with one from a donor wheel.

 

It's hard for me to picture a rim that has rusted through that doesn't have deep pits in other areas to be concerned about. If it is as you say then I'd have no qualms about welding the hole and grinding it back to the original thickness so that balancing would not be a problem.

I picked up a nice pair of 15" Ford wheels for 20 bucks last year. I would not put a lot of energy and certainly not much money in a holey one. JMO

 

I decided to fix that wheel only to find out that no one makes a push through cone for a 2 3/4" ID hole. So...what 15", 5 on 4.5" wheel do I buy that will accept the smallest 2 15/16" push through cone? Or, since I already have these, is having the center machined an option?