Register now to get rid of these ads!

TECH - Watts Linkage Bracket.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by metalshapes, Mar 3, 2010.

  1. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    I needed to build a bracket for a Watts Linkage on a O/T car I'm building.

    I wanted it to be adjustable, so I can change the Roll Center.

    I couldnt find anything that would fit the car and the axle I'm using, so I made my own.


    First, I made a Template/ Mockup out of cardboard and maskingtape.

    10B 149 s.jpg

    Then I took measurements off that, and copied it in steel.

    10B 151 s.jpg
     
  2. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Tacked together ( and drilled for lightness...)

    10B 156 s.jpg

    10B 158 s.jpg

    10B 159 s.jpg
     
  3. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    And test fit under the car.

    View attachment 915666

    View attachment 915667

    View attachment 915668

    It all needs to be finishwelded, and the holes for the centerbolt are still undersize.
    ( I'll drill those to size after the finish welds, so they will by nice and straight and inline )


    Next I'll make the outside brackets that mount to the car...
     
  4. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Last 3 pics didnt post...

    10B 165 s.jpg

    10B 166 s.jpg

    10B 168 s.jpg
     
  5. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,722

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    Wow!! I'll subscribe to this thread for later use!! Thanks!!
     
  6. Iceberg460
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 880

    Iceberg460
    Member

    Sweet! Thanks dude! What did u use for the center pivot and arms (sorry not sure what the right name for that part is, but the part inside the bracket)?
     
  7. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Alfa Romeo Alfetta.

    Its too wide for the car I'm putting it on.

    But thats allright, because the outside ends are going to be replaced with Heim Joints ( so I can shorten the tubes then...)

    The center pivot ( I think its also called the "football" ) and the inside ends of the tubes have rubber in them now, but I've found a company that sells Polyurithane replacements for Alfa's.
     
  8. Iceberg460
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 880

    Iceberg460
    Member

    So it is a stock part (for now at least:D)?
    Huh... didn't know a watts link was used by any of the OEM's... Learn something every day...
     
  9. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    New Durangos use them, maybe the jeep cousins too.
     
  10. dalesnyder
    Joined: Feb 6, 2008
    Posts: 650

    dalesnyder
    Member

    The way you can see things like this in your head before you start fabbing just amazes me.

    Iceberg: I think the Dodge Durango uses a factory watts link also. But it aint no where near that pretty.
     
  11. Norfab
    Joined: Dec 1, 2006
    Posts: 50

    Norfab
    Member

    Looks nice, here's something similar I did for another OT car.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    That looks good.

    I like your fine adjustment.

    But I had to sacrifice having that because I wanted the centerbolt to be in double shear.
     
  13. Norfab
    Joined: Dec 1, 2006
    Posts: 50

    Norfab
    Member

    Yeah, ideally double shear would be better but... It's a 3/4" bolt, we used a similar setup for the panhard bar in 3200# BGN cars and never had a problem and it's worked well for this. Makes it easy for quick adjustments at the track. How are you going to make the outer ends of the links adjustable?
     
  14. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Yeah, I know.

    It doesnt have to be double shear ( it wasn't on the Alfa Romeo I got the Link off )

    But bolts in double shear make me happy... :D :D



    For outside adjustment, I'll make a vertical row of holes, just like I did on this bracket.

    But that is more to make sure that nothing goes into bind, and to keep the sideways loads as horizontal as possible.

    The Roll Center is determened by the pivot on the centerlink, so that is the critical one.

    I think I'll only do 3 holes for adjustment, instead of the 5 I have on the Axle Bracket.

    For ground clearence.
    ( this will be a Street Car as well...)
     
  15. onedge
    Joined: May 25, 2006
    Posts: 999

    onedge
    Member

    i know it is O/T app........ and it may perform great....but it just looks awful.
     
  16. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Some of us go for looks...others look for GO.

    Looks good to me Alex and it will obviously do the job it was designed for and do it WELL.
     
  17. ENFO
    Joined: Apr 27, 2005
    Posts: 247

    ENFO
    Member
    from Tucson AZ

    Looks *****in, Alex.... Oh yeah... I call shotgun for the Silverstate Cl***ic.....
     
  18. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Thanks guys. :)

    Yeah, I've been thinking about the Silverstate Cl***ic...
     
  19. ENFO
    Joined: Apr 27, 2005
    Posts: 247

    ENFO
    Member
    from Tucson AZ

    Me too.... I want to be right there next to you screaming and and ****ping my pants as we drift thru a corner at 100+:D:D:D:D:D
     
  20. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    :D :D :D

    I kinda looked at the regulations already.

    Got to figure out that it will cost, though...
     
  21. flt-blk
    Joined: Jun 25, 2002
    Posts: 4,941

    flt-blk
    Member
    from IL

    How do you get the nut on the bolt for the center pivot (Footbal), it looks like the bracket is tight to the pumpkin?
     
  22. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Its open on the right hand side ( with a flange on it for strength )
    I can get in with a open ended wrench, and there is space between the bracket and the pumkin so I'll be able to use a nut and a lockwasher.

    I'm using a long bolt ( so the sideways loads are on the shoulder and as little as possible on the threads ), that I will cut down
     
  23. I am also building a watts link on a truck I am building ,and I not sure how much force is exerted on the center bolt.I am installing heim joints on the bars. should I use a br*** or poly bushing on the center bolt ?
     
  24. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    I'm starting with stock streetcar parts, so I'm trying to stiffen things up.

    If I was building from scratch, I'd probably use a br*** bushing.

    Or bearings.

    I've seen a setup that a guy built for a racer, and he used front wheel bearings.

    ( he had the whole spindle bolted to the underside of his trunkfloor...:)
    and the hub was his Football.

    It looked crude as hell, but it seemed to work well.)
     
  25. CoolHand
    Joined: Aug 31, 2007
    Posts: 1,942

    CoolHand
    Alliance Vendor

    I disagree.

    For a lot of us, function IS form.

    There is something to be said for elegant and spartan utility.

    Unen***bered functionality has a beauty all its own.

    Let it never be said that engineers cannot wax poetic, when properly motivated. :D
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.