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Metal shrinking

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bolsa boy, Mar 6, 2010.

  1. bolsa boy
    Joined: Nov 25, 2006
    Posts: 188

    bolsa boy
    Member

    Metal gurus. I have a pair of fender skirts that need some work. One of them needs some shrinking along the bottom edge. Problem is I don't have a shrinker available to me. Is there a way to shrink without a shrinker?
     
  2. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Heat and cool with torch?
     
  3. KrisKustomPaint
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,107

    KrisKustomPaint
    Member

    heat and hammer. there are threads about shrinking with a torch.
     
  4. J.R-Sims Garage
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 32

    J.R-Sims Garage
    Member
    from Australia

    gday, check Peter Tommasini site out www.handbuilt.net.au if theres no help on there email peter tommasini or ring him his from Australia but is one of the best and will give you great advice. i work for him so if you do talk to him say you spock to Joel Sims
     
  5. John_Kelly
    Joined: Feb 19, 2003
    Posts: 535

    John_Kelly
    Member

  6. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    How is it you've desided that a shrink is what's needed to repair the problem?

    Shrinking metal on a panel that is really just displaced metal, that is to say metal that's above the normal surface of the panel, and held there by surrounding damage ( a.k.a. a false stretch ) , will cause more damage than good! Always be sure that all of the high metal has been driven down, and the low metal driven up BEFORE you deside that a shrink is what's needed. Also, watch out for hidden damage benith the paint from an old repair. Filler, be it polyester, gl***fibre or lead can put pressure or tension on a surrounding area of the new damage, and cause all brands of grief!

    Torch shrinking isn't too hard to master, especially on a small flange or semi crowned area. In a worst case, slitting and rewelding the stretched area will work, or even a cold shrink, one performed by ''picking'' down the high area with the tip of a picking hammer, whyle supporting the surrounding area with a dolly, and filling over the area- this last method is also known as "butchery" !

    " Your head would look good on a pike "
     
  7. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,326

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj

    Tuck shrinking works great if you master the knack!
    John shows a good way to do it....I haven't quite got it down pat yet, but Ron, in my shop, seems to have a better grasp of it than I do...give it a try!
     
  8. KrisKustomPaint
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,107

    KrisKustomPaint
    Member

    great information
    read The Key To Metal Bumping
    you can get it from Martin tool, If your going to hit sheetmetal with a hammer you ought to read this book
     
  9. dizzyearth
    Joined: Jan 16, 2010
    Posts: 48

    dizzyearth
    Member
    from Elkmont Al

    AHHHHHHH just be careful, a little bit of shirking equates to a whole lot of stretching......

    The tuck method works great if you take your time and work slowly as does the heat method.......both can and will harden the metal significantly if you overdo it. Practice on something else first....your first several tries will be mistakes..

    All of the metal shaping books, videos are great knowledge.

    I'm partial to John Glover's videos personally

    most of those are available at www.metalcrafttools.com
     
  10. Crease
    Joined: May 7, 2002
    Posts: 2,878

    Crease
    Member

  11. bolsa boy
    Joined: Nov 25, 2006
    Posts: 188

    bolsa boy
    Member

    After looking at some of the sites that you guys gave me I think the tuck method will work. I'll definitly practice it first. Hate to ruin a skirt. So it will be a lot of practice. Thanks guys.
     

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