chrysler flathead overheating help!!

Iv done every thing but rip the motor apart and she still over heats can anyone give me some pointers? I have a 1954 chrysler with a 265 flatty and it over heats every time I run it if you have any info that can help me throw it my way please!!!

 

You will do best over at p15-d24:

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/forumdisplay.php?f=2

Possibilities that come to mind:
water distribution tube falling apart
Motor block full of sediment
radiator full of crud.
Rest of water jacket coated with crud
blocked hose
no (or insufficient) water circulation

What have you done to it?

 

Also retarded spark timing.

 

As mentioned briefly, there is a water distribution tube that runs inside the water
jacket in the block to carry water to the rear of the block.
In old engines this tube is frequently mostly rusted away and needs to be replaced.
Pieces of the rotted tube can also block water flow around the cylinders.
It is made from sheet metal and a new one can be fashioned by someone with only
limited metal working skills. Might be the problem
Good luck pal.

 

Well if its going to get pricey to fix I'm going to pull the motor and put my 348 chevy in the car but id much rather keep they flatty cuz its to cool

 

Pull the pump, vanes may have rusted away,,also try to pull the dist. tube to check it and get an idea of what condition the insides look like.

 

When does it over heat slow speed or high speed. It is unusual for a Mopar system to over heat if the system is in good condition. Simple check on the radiator for proper fllow.

With the bottom hose removed and the out let blocked, a relaese of water from a non fouled radiator will raise a column of water aproximately 6 inches high when the cap is off and the outlet block is released.

You may also have a sheared pin on the pump impeller. You do not need to remove the pump to check this. You can check this by removing the heater hose retrun fitting from the top of the water pump, and while stalling the impeller by inserting a screw driver or similar, trying to turn the WP pulley. If it turns and the impeller doesn't move your problem might be there.

Is it truely overheating or just burping excess fluid after shut down. If you fill the radiator to the top, it will puke out extra coolant leaving an area for expansion. If you keep refilling, it will continue to puke it out. Put in enough to just cover the cooling p***age inlets by about an inch or so.

 

You might want to try popping out the freeze plugs and then flush the engine the best you can. The lower water p***ages in the block tend to gather gunk over time. With the freeze plugs removed you should be able to flush a lot of the stuff out and open up the circulation.

 

Now I got the car with the heater core pulled and it was in the box of stuff that was in the trunk would that cause overheating being its not hooked up??

 

And to answer ur question yes its truley over heating when it gets hot it smokes and steams

 

Have several flatheads
1, If it has been sitting for a while, flush the system out (or drain and flush the radiator out for sure, )
2, Pull the Thermostat
3. Put a household fan blowing into the radiator and start it up
4. As it gets hot is the water moving thru the radiator, if not the block is clogged, but before you pullit apart. Shut it off, let it cool, fill it with vinegar, start it back it up, let it sit for a day or two and then pull the radiator, the water pump, water distribution tube and freeze plugs and flsuh it out.

Its not expensive, its just time consuming.

 

Take the valve covers off and check the block for crud, you probably need to clean the block.

 

well i dont know off hand where to get freeze plugs or id pull them i found a new head gasket and i am ordering it with my next paycheck and im going to start by tearing it down from top to bottom it hasnt been on the road sence 78 but its been stored inside would any one know where the factory specs on head and what the timeing should be so after im done fixing this i dont run in to more trouble

 

Core plugs are easy. Pull one out and take it to your NAPA/Orielly/or ? store and match it. If the plug you pull is a replacement then it will have the size and part number stamped on it.

.

 

The water distribution tube is CRITICAL to operating temp of any early Chrysler flathead six or eight. I belive these are being reproduced and should be available from Roberts Motor Parts or Andy Bernbaum both in M***achusetts.

 

Dose any one know where I can get a gaskit kit for the motor??

 

NAPA............

Gasket kit $51.89 as per the web site.

 

Gaskit set is on the way would anyone know the tuq specs for the head on this old mopar?

 

I've got one of those. Have got a factory shop manual, too. Will try to PM you with some specs. Am dealing with a family member in a nursing home so if i get sidetracked, please PM me a reminder. Good advice here, these are tough old engines.

 

Yep, water distribution tube and dist. advance.
Clean out the p***ages, but don't flush the junk into the radiator!

 

I have some NOS water distributions tubes. Yours must be a six, wasn't all 8s hemis in 54?
If I have a tube for yours 20.00 + the ride.

 

well i still am unable to find a water distribution tube to have on hand im getting all the parts i need so when i tear the motor down i can do every thing in a day this tube is located in the block right?? and while i have the whole thing apart im am going to make a new intake for it to run 1 or 2 holly94s im not sure yet but the little on shooter has to go. if anyone has split exaust for a motor like this that would be killer if not i may make my own

 

freeze plugs have not been an easy find eather iv found some in the right size but there too deep of a dish compared to the stock ones

 

Langdon's Stovebolt has 2 pc. cast iron headers for flat Plymouths & Dodges. It is rather expensive at $350.

 

Water Distribution Tubes and Freeze Plugs are available from Andy Bernbaum http://www.oldmoparts.com/l.htm

Not having your heater core in should not be an issue as many of the engines originally had a valve at the rear of the head to shut water flow off to the heater during summer.

I will get out my manual and get the torque specs for the head this evening and post it for you. While your engine is most likely the 25 inch block and mine is the 23 inch block the torqe specs should be much the same.

There are lots of Shop Manuals on Ebay at reasonable prices and I would say if you are going to do any major work on your car you should drop $30 on one of these as they are invaluable.

 

well i got gaskets and freeze plugs and mr. crestline had a water tube so i think i got ever thing but the tuq specs so im hopeing next week when the weathers nice to have her all fixed and ready one last thing tho would and one know were there are some tail lights that are in good shape???

 

Here is the page from my shop manual showing the torque specs from the 23 inch block. Yours should be the same I would think even though it is the 25 inch block. Sorry if it is a big image just wanted to make sure you could read it.

 

How man ft-lbs should they be tqr to??

 

Read the text.

first p*** 35 ft. lbs.
Second p*** 65-70 ft. lbs.
Warm engine then repeat second p***.

The distribution tube is behind the water pump, not under the head.
There is a drawing on this page, about a 3rd of the way down.
http://www.allpar.com/history/plymouth/1935.html

the P-15 D-24 site has more info
http://www.merc583.addr.com/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html

Scroll down to "Water Distribution Tube"

 

WATER DISTRIBUTION TUBE!!!. Recently I posted a question on ??????? "HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET ONE OF THOSE OLD *******S OUT OF THE BLOCK.??????? May have to do it on my 47 pickup
UPDATE;
THANK YOU RODSTRACE!! Just went to the P15-D24 link and got the info I was looking for. What a great place to get educated