F100 Front Clip Swap

I noticed on the Gibbons kit website (http://www.gibbonfiberglass.com/trucks/torsion_kit2.asp) that they have the 61-63 unibody F100's listed. I have a '64 F100, would this kit still work?

 

When installing a Volare clip use a cardboard pattern from the clip and transfer it to the framerails, some minor cleanup is allways neccessary, also move the pattern 1'' to 1-1/2'' forward of the stock axle centerline to better fit in the fender center.
Also get the clip from a good car, check that the upper arm towers are not bent toward the frame rail,mostly from abused cars!
I'v installed a few of these units and all work pretty well if you decide to go this way.

 

I'd contact Gibbon to make sure. It might be that some later '64's used the Twin I Beam which came out officially in 1965 (and is quite different) and they didn't want to have any confusion, so they said "up to '63". I can't think of much difference between a '63 & '64, but who knows?


JG

 

Take some measurements from a mid-70's Nova or Camaro. Should match right up, I'm not sure about the steering box though.

 

So if I have a running driving 93 Dakota w/318 reg. cab shortbed would I pretty much have all the parts to get a 53 F-100 running/driving temporarily until I can get the drivetrain I want?

 

do anybody have pictures of jag front clip being installed on chevy 1951 truck with pic

 

I started doing Chevelle front swaps on 53-56 f-100's in the early 70's. Never had one bit of problems ever. Probably did at least 250 of them. Remember the Truck Stop in Burlingame. He was the first to reproduce 53-56 F-100 parts. I had the back of his shop to do all the fab work. We had at least 3-5 trucks getting conversions in the shop at all times. The trick with the chevelle clip is to suck it inside of the F-100 frame. Then it's a lap weld which is the strongest weld you can produce. Then you box the inside of the frame with a peice that's dimensionaly the same as the F-100 frame. You want to use 64 -early 67 frames because they have staight frame horns because they are pre-cross flow radiator. When you mount the motor you need to raise it up a few inches to line it up with the radiator. The beauty of this swap is if you use a SBC motor is you can use aftermarket hedders from the Chevelle. We use to use a GM early tilt column w/a Tornato u-joint and shaft, but all this is too hard to get nowadays. There's better product on the market now. I still have the fixture to mount the stock F-100 frame horns back on the Chevelle front. It located off of the original rivet holes of the rear spring perch. You can use Chevelle frontends up to 72, but it's a little more work to weld the front horns on. You can do this swap to 55-59 Chevy/GM trucks. the only differrence is you don't have to weld any front frame rails back on. The reason I liked this swap is because the two vehicles were of the same weight. And there was a performance advantage to adapting Camaro front control arms,spindles and disc brakes by moving around some suspension points. But standard Chevelle disk brakes were adequate. If you get the right front end you'll get disc brakes /power steering all in one compatable package. If your going to put a Ford motor in this frame swap you'll need a Bronco oil pan conversion for a small block and a 4 wheel drive oil pan for a big block. I still have the frame dimensions somewhere where to cut the F-100 and Chevy/GM frames. if you need them let me know.

 

I used to work at a shop that did nothing but install Volare clips in F100's. The engine is always offset to clear the steering box. With a big Caddy engine there might be complications.

 

So what's the price on the Industrial Chassis cross member, hup... never mind looks like $675. ( Okay, all together now, DO A SEARCH YAIDIOT! ) Does he offer an alliance member discount? If I can get my hands on another F-100 that's the route I'll go.

 

Here you go:
http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/

 

bump

 

Website is old, gonna get redone. Current price of a crossmember kit is $589.00 and I have them in stock.

If I can squeeze a portly 460-514 Lima over the Dakota, a Cad would be easy.

 

Whats wrong with a properly done straight axle ?

 

Has anyone heard of using the clip from an LTD? I'm looking at one online that someone already finished, but not sure if they knew what they were doing or not.

 

Which one? I have seen a few of the earlier LTD fronts with varying degrees of success. All seemed like a lot more work than the other alternatives.

 

Didn't Chrisman use a LTD clip in the yellow 56 with the Hemi in it?
Larry T

 

Always? My old F-1 had the SBC centered and it cleared the steering box. I think most people who say the motor has to be offset must not run the motor high enough in the engine bay. Personaly I loved the Volare. Brewsir and I installed it, he is a good source of info for these installs, but so is the search function. It rode fine and was low enough for me. LOL.I put LOTS of miles on that truck and Brewsir put like 100k on the Batfink with a Volore clip. That being said on a 57 to 73 F100 I would look into that Crown Vic clip. That article on the Ford truck site is a really good tech piece. The thing with the Volare and now the Crown Vic is there is no high dollar stuff to buy. The clip for either one should be under a couple hundred. Hell if your really good you could get a complete donor car for a couple bills, think auction police cruiser. Nothing against El Polako his setup looks pretty sweet, but I'm a buget minded rodder and if I can get the whole supension for less than a crossmember thats what I'm gonna do.
Good luck

 

Your right. The boss always made us stick the motor in pretty low. I think they look better higher in the compartment. SBC always had about a 2 inch offset to the passenger side. Ford engines were pretty much centered.

 

Yeah my aircleaner was above the fenders in the hood. I also used stock cast manifolds. One was a center and one a rear dump buut I can't remember wich was wich that might be the difference. I think the drivers was the rear dump. I know it doesn't matter that the motor is offset, it would just bug me every time I looked at it.

 

I did this front end swap years ago and like many, I have set the project off for awhile and am now back to working on it.
My question is , What power steering pump do you use or the Volare /SBC combo? Do I have to worry about different PS pressure?

56 Chevy Truck, Volare clip, Versailles 9" rear

 

There are more than a few correct answers to this problem, based on varying criteria. Almost every method has advantages and limitations.

Keep in mind that if you think you know more than El Polacko about making these trucks sit right, ride well, handle, and stop properly, you are probably wrong.

As mentioned above, several methods that have been used successfully in the past have been superceded by even more clever techniques. Choose wisely and work carefully; it will almost certainly work out for you.

 

Another swap that's come up recently uses the crossmember and suspension parts from a 2003 or newer Crown Victoria police car. The crossmember is aluminum and bolts into the chassis, plus the suspension has modern geometry, big brakes and rack and pinion steering. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/716058-buildup-06-crown-vic-front-suspension-into-67-f100.html

 

I am interested in this swap for my 48 F1, but was wondering about the link above. The swap in the link is for a 67. Are the 48 and 67 frame widths the same? And how wide is the trac width of the Crown Vic? Someone asked a few posts back about the width difference, but I dont think it was answered.

 

48 frames are 32" wide and from 53 on they are 34" wide.

Track width on the F1 is 59 1/2" to 60" and the 53-64 trucks are 61" approximately.

From everything I have seen the CV track is 65" or greater.

I have done the 61" track under the F1 trucks and it puts the tires awful close to the fenders. If your truck is going to be low, I would recommend keeping the track down to 58 or 59 inches wide.

 

Thanks for the info. This is my first F1, and still learning what works, and what doesnt.

 

Hear are some pics of a XJ6/12 Jaguar front in a 60 F100. At a frame width of 34" it is just about at the limit with out some notching, 32" would be a push over. Track width useing 15x6 jag rims is 58".
Pete

 

So the complete Jag crossmember bolts in (4 mounting points)? Looks like a real neat setup.
Larry T

 

Yeah the whole sub frame mounts at 4 points. Some guys cut the front mounting arms off and wheld it in which would be OK on a rigid frame. Because the F100 frame is designed to have some movement and twist I stayed with the original Jag bolt-in set up. If I want to go lower I can use lower spring or air bags.
Pete

 

Had one with an mid seventies ltd su frame in it rode nice stopped good also! Torino should work too!

 

so why do you have to clip it just wondering