TECH Cheapo 235 Chevy Split Exhaust My way

I've done a ton of research here and elsewhere looking at ways to split my 235 Chevy Exhaust manifold. Well I did mine different trying to achieve a somewhat stock look. I wanted to retain use of my parking brake and not have what looks like a plumbing fixture sticking out the side. I used a 216 manifold since it appeared to be slightly larger than the 235 one I had. In hind sight a lot of the clearance issues would of been solved if i stuck with a 235 manifold because I used the 235 intake.
I like starting with a mess, makes cleanup easier.

My first thought is I'm going to be hard core and make every cut last.

whew....

still working

screw it.. break out the power tools

 

Flange cut off the first manifold

flange off the second manifold

see now I have 2

Time to make more manifolds!

Looks split now huh?

 

Knocked off some excess metal

making a new exhaust hole

Basic idea of whats going on here.

Cleaning it up a bit

I know welding cast is supposed to be done special ways. I MIGed mine and pinged the hell out of it as I worked. Good penetration and but ugly.

 

Awesome!

 

I used the pieces I cut off earlier to fill the holes.

its ugly I admit but its also cheap.

weld weld weld fill in all the holes.

taking shape

Front manifold almost done

 

up close

Attacking the rear in the same manner.

Cleaned up.

Hey look at that, Looks like something...

another

A little high heat paint.

 

woah nice

 

Studs proved to be a pain to get out so they got drilled and and replaced with some bolts

rear manifold

Now trying them out with a 216 manifold.

test fitting... I wasing going to use the 216 intake but apparently it used a different carb so i cut the studs of the exhaust and put the 235 intake back on.

close clearances.

After much frustration with real exhaust tubing I gave up and bought some flexpipe. This will be replaced when finances allow me to do the exhaust like I want.

more test fitting.

 

Looks decent, This was in and out about 2 dozen times clearancing things and taking care of exhaust leaks.

Last picture for now. Sounds GREAT however managed to crack one of the oil lines going to the filter so need to get that fixed before I can run up and down the street rattling windows...

 

Hey cool !

 

good job

 

Looks good. Are you getting enough heat to your intake?

 

Nice job Juztyn00,, a true dual exhaust...I like it 52csb

 

Where there's a will...... Great job... love the creative fix.

 

Cool!

So did you block off the bottom of the intake? And what did you do about heating the intake?

Thanks for sharing!

 

Nicest one Ive seen. I guess its really two pieces...
Nicest ONES I've seen, Glad to see you modified both in the same way, its a lot cleaner and eaiser on the eyes then the asymetrical ones I've seen done before.

Congrats on the Hacksaw, How long before the cutoff wheel came out? 15-20 minutes?

Jeff

 

Its not blocked off, I'm debating on how to heat the intake... Actually I'm planning a similar thread to this cutting and mating that 350 4BBL intake to the spare 235 intake I have. I'm going to see how it runs as is for now and might add a heat risor to the air cleaner to prewarm the air.

10 minutes... Decided I wasn't hard core. Cutoff wheels make quick work of cast.

 

The only purpose of the heat riser is to help the motor warm up, especially in colder climates. Once the engine has reached a certain temp. then the valve closes. Having consant heat to the intake, more likely during the summer, will cause vapor lock.

 

nah, you are wrong - it helps warm the intake not the motor. the thermostat helps control motor temp

 

ok, i wanna hear it run!!!

 

Cool.. Cave man with a bow tie!

 

Nice job JUZTYN00!! Really like the 2 x 3 design. All is equal and it will sound bitchen. Hope your going to go with a set of Smittys??You mentioned you migged them. Did you us gas or flux core wire?? You can see a set I did for a Dodge 6 Flatty on my profile. I used "Old School" brass rod. Worked then, works now. I am interested in this mig usage. I believe you mentioned you used all cast pieces and not any dissimular metal??. Let me know on the wire. I am curious. Never have used flux core yet. Thanks

 

part of the plan was to scavenge a valve... Like I said I'm going to see how it runs as is. I had the intake heat valve closed all the time on the old stock exhaust manifold and never had a problem with it not heating enough.

 

For the record, the valve on my 261/235 was rusted closed. It ran fine in cold or hot weather, with the choke on or off.

 

When you migged the manifold did you
preheat it or just do it cold? Let us know
how well it holds up. It looks great.
Matt

 

I quite likely did this wrong but time will tell if it lasts or not. I used E71T-11 Flux core wire, .035 diameter with the heat turned about 3/4 up on my little Hobart. I did also use gas too. I used the pieces that I cut off the manifolds to fill the holes. I'm sure someone will chime in and say that you cant do that, It'll crack. If it does then it gets taken off and rewelded. I figure no big deal as its my car.

edit: no preheat... just pinged them alot..

 

Results look good,lots of work and I hope the mig welds holds.FYI I did one by chopsawing the manifold near the 2and 3 ports,then I cut 3 inch u bend into 2 j bends. Ground the manifold to fit the pipes and brazed each one pointing down.Also drilled and tapped for 10/32 aircraft bolts in about 4 places. Then I build a sheet metal choke heater,bolted it to intake and welded to pipes.Looked good ,sounded good and never broke.Just my 2cents worth

 

Pardon my iginorance...but, what is "pinged"?

 

Pinged means ,as you are welding, between short beads, take a chipping hammer or whatever and hammer on the casting. You are then "Stress relieving" the metal. Sort of a mechanical valium.

 

a very good split manifold tech i liked it A+