how much can I cut off the front coils and still maintain the alignment adjustments 1 - 1.5 - 2 coils? got 2" blocks for the rear and I want a slight rake w 14" front and 15" rear wheels.
Thanks ,got a pic of how low it got? also didn't the 54 have 15" wheels?mine has vintage steel slots 14" w old school bias ply SUMMIT big white letter tires.
[ QUOTE ] mike, I took two outta my old one. The bias ply never showed any signs of unequal wearing. [/ QUOTE ] Two inches or two coils? G.
[ QUOTE ] how much can I cut off the front coils and still maintain the alignment adjustments 1 - 1.5 - 2 coils? got 2" blocks for the rear and I want a slight rake w 14" front and 15" rear wheels. [/ QUOTE ] Took 2 outta my ole 54. ran perfect. radial tires also. Neal0o
I was told you can't take more than one coil before the ride is rough, my buddy and I are gonna flip the spindles and cut 1 coil, if it isn't low enough, were gonna get the kit from nightprowlers that lowers the lower spring mounting point.
The spring lowering kit is pretty easy to make... 4 1"x6" pieces of 1/2" plate, some grade 8 bolts and a sawzall... Will bring in the "instructions" on the kit that came with the merc and scan... it'll be pretty self explanitory at that point I thought about flipping and swapping the spindles side to side on the Merc, but can you even get close to an alignment? Anyone have any experience with that??
[ QUOTE ] Took 2 outta my ole 54. ran perfect. radial tires also. Neal0o [/ QUOTE ] This is the car...Rides great, should be better in an hour or so when I bolt up the new shocks on all four corners. Has 3" lowering blocks in rear too.
Dropped my '53 2" in the front and 4" in the rear. It has the stock 15" wheels and radials. It drives like a dream and the front doesn't even touch the bumpers, but it hits hard in the rear. I'm gonna try some snubbers on the rear and see if that works, anybody know if snubbers will help? -slacker
slacker , yours is exactly how I want mine to look,but w five spokes and stock skirts ,I wanted a taller set(more wheel coverage), but only found stockers locally, 2" how? cut springs?
I just threw on a set of Gabriel Guardian shocks from Autozone ($12.99ea). I spent 2 hours fabricating a front lower shock mount since one was missing. I took her out for a test drive and man she feels great. Nice & smooth, never hits hard in the rear, and the front no longer rocks up & down like it's at sea.
[ QUOTE ] I was told you can't take more than one coil before the ride is rough, my buddy and I are gonna flip the spindles and cut 1 coil, if it isn't low enough, were gonna get the kit from nightprowlers that lowers the lower spring mounting point. [/ QUOTE ] Speaking from experience, do not bother with the front lowering blocks. They are a real bitch to install. I would much rather cut more out of the spring. In fact, I am going to take mine out and cut the spring more. I wish I wouldn't have put them in. Nothing will be as strong as those stock rivets. You can see them hanging down too and they don't look very cool. It also allows the lower arms to get hung up a little. I have a 49 but it is the same basic principal.
[ QUOTE ] Texashrdcore, what shocks are you using? [/ QUOTE ] Just stock shocks, I thought about air shocks and just air them up enough to help take some of the weight. I dunno -slacker
Mike I think the suspension on the 53 is the same as 49-51. Rocky had a good post about lowering the frontend on a 49-51 some time ago, flipping the uprights etc.
What year is your Ford? '52-'53 have a different chassis then '54's '54-'56 Fords have the same chassis. They're ball joint suspension, as opposed to king pin. If you have a '54, FatMan Jack has a 3" drop spindle kit that changes the car to Granada disc brakes. That's what I used on my '54 and the kit worked bitchin. Jamco makes a lowering kit for the earlier cars, and a conversion kit to make them disc brake. KK
ya, mines a 54 , dropped spindles are way out of my price range at the moment, i am going to hack off 1 spring round and put it back together loosely, if it will take another hack to get it lower an still keep enough adjustment left for alignments, i will cut another, then put it all back to gether for real w HD gas shocks.looks like its 14" wheels w nos F7814 tires for the front, so this will bring it down enough so the wheel well is full of tire instead of air, I have 1" and 2 " lowering blocks that will be the next work after the front is down.I am looking for a 60's rake, not a gasser nose bleed on this car.will get my nose bleed attitude when i finally get my gasser cpe (IF I find a decent body I can afford) ---DIG THOSE CRAZY RACING MIRRORS, THEY ARE THE FIRST THING TO GO next is those crusty steel slotted wheels.
52-54 is not the same as 49. you can either cut coils, drop spindles or, bags. the rear i would pull a few leafs and us some 4" blocks. and maybe even c notch the frame. on my 54 i have bags, fbss. just monoleafs in back with 4" blocks, bags and a c notch. although i did loose my shock mount cross member today. when your under there, re-weld some of that stock stuff.
as long as I have you 52-4 guys on line , I have a couple questions , first- ?what gear ratio can i expect to find in a v8 auto 54 ford vicky second- will a 54 Merc hood fit a 54 ford w the ford grille? I like that scooped hood and know of a 54 merc w the hood on it yet.
Hey Mike, Thats a cool little hardtop you have there. good luck with it. Your car should have a 3:31 rear in it. Also I don't think the 54 Merc hood will just bolt on & fit properly as the mercs have a 118 inch wheelbase VS. 115 on the fords & I belive the fenders & hood are longer on the mercs for that reason. I don't see why you couldn't splice the merc hood scoop into the ford hood. Billy
good, thats about right for cruiser w a 302 HP , lol,the merc I know of, has a complete front clip , but i'm going out there ina day or so to look it over, i'm sure i can get the whole car for a song,like haul it away , Thanks
Mike- a buddy of mine flipped the spindles[&side to side swapped]..as per instructions from our own Jalopy43 here on the HAMB...lowerd it 3-1/2". He did have to heat and bend em =IN= at the bottom and slot the upper A arm mount holes 1/8" outwards to get camber back in spec.
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