Thinking of using POR-15 on my floor?

What would work best for me on my floor? It is going to be a nice street/strip car but I don't plan on carpeting or painting the floor. Half the floor is surface rust and the other half has new floor pans and "****** tunnel" with rust stains starting on them from moisture. I just want a hard coat on my floor to prevent and cover the rust but thick enough to cover any marks from the new flooring and small pitting. Also I heard with the POR that you are supposed to go right over the rusted spots and not clean it up because it sticks better, is this true? So to make my floor look like one solid piece that has a nice durable layer is POR the way to go or is there a better product out there for me?

 

It's a good product, and will serve your purpose. It'll get real ****py looking though after a while. Kinda turns cloudy. You can paint over it before it cures, but not so good after. Then it will look better. You should use a wire wheel to clean the scale reasonably well. As far as other products, I'm not sure...others will know though. Good luck

 

I think POR-15 is fairly durable, from what I have heard. I used Cool Car Ceramic on my 57, supposed to block heat and sound like Lizard Skin, but in one application, Lizard Skin has separate heat and sound formulas. I'll be covering mine up but it looks nice and durable. I applied it over blasted metal that had been epoxy primed. I did 2 coats on the top and bottom of the floor pans. Some photos below.. Where are you in MN?

 

Hey, 55Chevy78. Is the '55 the car you're referring to? Does it still have the gl*** and everything out of it? If that's the case, I would strongly suggest to get it sandblasted. It's not that expensive, and you just know it's the right thing to do...especially on such a car as your '55. Don't cut corners on your cool car. You'll have more peace of mind knowing that it's as good as it can be. Follow bryan6902's lead. Look how good it looks, and you know it's super-solid! Nice job there, Bryan.

 

I have had good luck with spray-in bedliner

 

POR15 is designed specifically to be applied over rust, as in, not over non rusted surfaces. It works well, is very tough. I'd go with spray in bedliner too, however.

 

I use either Rustoleum or Benjamin Moore Industrial coatings. Both hold up really well.

 

I have also been looking at POR-15 or KBS coatings. KBS is very similiar to POR-15 but is supposed to hold up a little better to sunlight and comes in mulitple colors. I plan on wire brush the floors after I fix the bad spots and then using one of the above.

FYI, if you get either of the above, you might consider quart size cans. Once open, I have heard the cans don't stay very long (6 months). A little goes a long way.

 

New metal it will peal. Do a degrease and metal prep on rusted metal. It'll peal on clean metal and rusted if not prepped well. Blasting it and painting is always the best.

 

POR-15 says it's not stable in sunlight and needs to be top-coated to maintain it's integrity and color. Supposedly, you can buy a quart,, make a small whole in the lid or bottom, pour out what you need,place a sheet metal screw into the hole to seal it and store it upside down in the refrigerator to preserve it for a longer period of time. I have done this, but haven't used it since i put it in there. Since it's air-sensitive, I guess this makes sense.

 

A degreasing, a metal prepping and a quarter of a small can of POR-15 on my '35 Coupe brushed on with foam brushes...

 

I have had very good luck with POR15, 72% better than rustolium .
Make sure the floors are bone dry, no grease, oil, or water, wire brush and paint right over the rust, 2 coats.
a hundred years from now that will be the only pat of the car left.

 

Don't waste your time and money on POR15. Just do what Bryan6902 did. Clean it, spray it, coat it for sound/heat. Done.

Sorry if I sound bitter, but POR15 has a reputation for peeling off good metal. You have some good metal, some rusty. For the amount of time you spend to treat your rusty stuff, then to try to coat the good metal with something that won't peel... Just clean off the rusty, paint it all with a rust preventative paint, like Rustoleum Professional (from the can, not the spray can), coat it with Lizard Skin or Cool Car and be done with it.

 

I do the floors/trunk of almost every car I build with POR-15 or similar product (actually like Master Series Coatings a bit more).
But they do get covered with insulation and carpet as well.
I would suggest using POR as a primer, and while it is just tacked off, spray it with bedliner. Use the 2 component stuff, though, not the Duplicolor type single can. Much more durable..I did an off road Jeep with this combo for a kid I worked with, and he loved it. Looked great, hard wearing and very easy to clean, just hose it off!
Don't let the POR dry completely before coating it, though, nothing will stick to it. I usually do a coat, wait a day, do another coat, then put on my topcoat while the POR is just past the sticky stage, it's just a bit tacky to the touch.
As for POR not sticking to new metal, neither does paint, if you don't prep it correctly. Do a very quick DA sanding, with 80 grit, on your new metal, and maybe spritz it down with metal-prep, and wipe dry. It'll last forever!

 

POR 15 is good stuff but very toxic, it also burns and easily flames up and very toxic, I wouldn't use inside of a car just because of that.

 

Is their metal prep/converter absoloutely necessary? I'm thinking about using it on a beater, but for what the stuff costs I think if I need both I'm just going to get another starter kit.

I used it a few years ago on a '50 Chevy and seems like where I used up some of what I'd poured out on my beater truck it didn't last - but by then I was just brushing it whereever to use it up, too. I put some inside the doors where I could reach on the '50 and it really liked the rough surface in there, I need to have a look at it again and see how it's held up.

 

Storm King has said it, but it bears repeating - do NOT use POR 15 over clean metal. It needs wire brushed rust in order to bond chemically with it. Without the rust as a base it peels off. Like everything else it requires proper prep to work correctly and using the prep/converter is part of the process.

 

I think that POR 15 encapsulates the rust to attach itself. Therefore, you must have rust present for it to stay on. Make sure you wear a mask and gloves. I didn't and felt like hell for a long time after with the **** stuck on my hands for a month.

 

x2 and the roll in **** works well too. would be durable for your purpose

 

I've had good sucess using Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood. It comes in cans for brush on applications and spray cans that get down in the bottoms of doors and into crevices. Just wire brush the loose stuff and go over with a shop vac and paint. All of these coatings give off toxic fumes while curing so wear a good respirator and be safe.

 

good stuff..just use gloves or your women will limit where your hands can go for some time!!!! true story.

 

Their directions claim the prep converts the rust and gives bare metal a "tooth" that the POR-15 will stick to. I was reading up on it online the other day, you can look at PDFs of the instructions free on the POR-15 outlet website. Then go buy from him on eBay because his stuff is a bunch cheaper there.


Probably should add I want to go over rust with it, not smooth metal.

 

Painting the bottom & top of my new floorboard with it. Prepped it with the etching stuff and then bushed on the por-15. You can feel the brush slipping across the none etched metal where as the etched part would drag a little and the por-15 covered better. Im very happy with the results.

 

same here, and the fact I get it for free from work doesnt hurt any haha

 

As has been said, POR-15 and KBS cannot tolerate sunlight and will degrade in the sunlight. You should topcoat them with whichever manufacturer's product you choose to use. Myself, I wouldn't use either for the purpose you specify. I'd probably use rattle can spray in bedliner.

Whatever you do, you should wire wheel it all. Clean it (degrease). Then hit it with a product to convert the rust. Several have been mentioned above. I prefer Picklex for this type of thing as you can paint right over it without further treatment. Finally, use the floor treatment you finally choose.

 

Exactly, tends to be prone to peeling off of clean metal.

 

spray in bedliner!! Prep according to directions on bedliner. Maybe spot prime with POR15, but scuff it up after it dries to top coat. POR 15 will definitely NOT be a good top coat for anything that gets ANY sun. I'm not too familiar with lizard skin but from what I understand it's waterborne and won't stand up to foot traffic (you'll be recoating under the steering wheel in no time) bedliner is made to be exposed and take a beating, what could be better?

POR 15 is awesome stuff for lightly rusted stuff. It just doesn't hold up to the sunlight. I've used it as an UNDERCOAT on lots of stuff, but for some reason there's this continued thinking that its great for everything to toothpaste. If you can degrease, wire brush the loose stuff, paint, and topcoat, then you're golden. Why go through the h***le of etching new metal? There's better stuff on the market that's made specifically for that purpose. No rust: sand, prime, and top coat.

 

Here is a hint for POR-15 (I just did my frame). Use one of those miniature foam rollers that they sell at home depot/lowes for painting. They work well and leave a super clean coat after without the brush strokes you can get from brushes.

 

I used POR 15 for years on all the restorations I did that needed it...but you must FOLLOW ALL THE DIRECTIONS EXACTLY, and you won't have any problems...it should always be top-coated, unless it's under carpet or inside a door or kick panel, away from sunlight...I've seen it on cars that I applied it to like 20 years ago? No issues at all, tough as nails. And do not get it on your skin! It takes weeks to wear off...Good luck!

 

That does look great Bryan! How much does something like that cost? after reading through the comments and having as much fresh metal as me I am thinking of doing something like yours if it isnt to costly otherwise using bedliner sounds like that would be perfect too and probably more cost effective. Also to answer your question I am from Detroit Lakes, MN.

Ya it is pretty much is completely stripped with no gl*** and leaning towards a spray on job now I would sandblast it as I do plan on doing this the right way. thanks