ok i got the body setting down over the frame...the chassis is mocked up with the crossmembers i am going to use motor is where it should be frame is bobbed at the back and pinched behind the K member i was leary of how it would look once i set it down...but DAMN im happy with it now...i coulda stood out in the cold and stared at it for hours..but no one wanted to help push it back in if i had done so.... anyways heres the best pictures i can get in the dark figured i would share... zach
Zach, Thats BADASS man! I LOVE the wide 5's..and the stance. It's nice to see them sitting like they used to instead of one the ground like so many do..not that i have anything against the 'squirrel killing' stance.. Tony.
Zach, looks fucking awesome but, I was told long ago that an A on deuce rails is not an AV8, an AV8 is an A with a V8, was I misinformed? I love your car its stance IS perfect! Paul
Zach, What did you about the gap between the Deuce rails and the A body created by the meeting fo the curved rails & the straight body line ? The pics don't quite tell the tale. By the way, the stance flat Rocks !!!!!!!!! And to '60's Style, I've always understood an A V-8 to be an A on Deuce rails. I've had some oldtimers argue with me that it has to have a Flathead to be a legitimate AV-8. I'm currently chasing parts for one that is gonna have a Nailhead. Johnnie.
[ QUOTE ] thats it...sorry they are so blurry...my camera really acts funny in the dark zach [/ QUOTE ] Hey Zach, It's really lookin good! I think the 36/39 rims are neat for a different look! Jon
As zach puts it, I got my "fix" tonight and took in his progress. I try to stop in a few times a week when I'm home from school... damn man, this thing is looking sweet... I can't wait to see it runing over the moutain roads and launching off of the crests of hills...if you think I'm kidding then you don't know this guy..haha.. anyways, i'm sure I'll be right behind in my chevy... keep up the good work.
[ QUOTE ] Zach, I was told long ago that an A on deuce rails is not an AV8, an AV8 is an A with a V8, was I misinformed? Paul [/ QUOTE ] That's always been the definition as I knew it. Basically an engine swap starting with Henry's first V8 (32) into a Model "A", then all later Ford/Merc V8s thru 53. No matter, that's gonna be a neat hot rod! Jon
glad everyone enjoys the look im gona try to answer all these in one shot here lulabelle...you can come see it anytime you want that im here nick32 & hatch..thanks for lightening pics pakrat..this is a 40's car...all the way not a NOW car so low isnt of importance to me...but THE LOOK is 60's...technically i guess your right with the AV8 thing going by the tardell book...but i mean it is an A with a v8 so it gets my point across 5window..gap is still there...i may section the cowl sides on an angle to make it pretty close then just use rubber in the rest...only been working on it for 8 evenings now so i havent gotten that far...and its a real deal 32 frame...i just put in an A front crossmember and a T rear and pinched it a good bit from the k-member back...not pinching the front i think thats it zach
retro54 told me i should mention that the frame isnt just any 32 frame...its from argentina...and has the holes on the right side for steering along with those on the left...and im leaving all the holes in there
hatch..yeah wood is another option...i'll figrue when it get to it...its all just mocked up now...i wana figure the exact wheelbase and get the torque tube cut...then do the rear crossmember in solid...then find exactly where the body will go with the wheels centered perfectly...at that point i'll decide how im going to deal with the gap thanks zach
Nice stance. I think you got it spot-on. The wide five wheels add a lot to the look as well. Here's a pic of what I did for my 31 on 32 rails roadster. Note that the body is not quite down where it goes, but cutting a notch in what I call the 'kick-in' in the front of the wheel well allows the body to drop over the frame aobut 3/8" or so creating a 'mini-channel' and hiding almost all of the frame/body gap. The gap is still there, but you have to get down on your knees to see it and a few feet away the gap is invisible. I'm using home-made body mounts as well and that allows the body to sit fractionally lower on the frame than do the wood blocks.
This pic shows a close-up of the kick-in notch. The only alterations to the (American Stamping) frame rails as far as deviating from the stock Deuce frame measurements was to cut a hacksaw blade wide kerf in upper and lower frame channel and tweak each side of the rear frame portion outward 3/4". This lines the frame rails up parallel with the inner wheel well panels as well as allow the body to drop about 3/4" at the rear. The resulting very small gap where the hacksaw made the cut was filled with a MIG welder in one pass. The frame was further reinforced with 1/8" flat cold-rolled laid over the gaps and welded each side. The boxing plates are the final bit as far as adding strength goes. Later on, the kick-in notch gets straightened out a bit and a piece of 1/4" or so rod gets welded in to finish off the body metal. I do have a pic of the frame showing where the cut was made if anyone is interested. The blue frame metal at the rear of the kick-in notch shows the location of the frame cut as well. Aside from that, bitchin car. I thought the 31 on 32 rails would be my last roadster, but a 29 on 32 rails sure is tempting....
that looks really good c9....thats sort of what i was thinking for the gap but then i pulled the frame in slightly farther so i dont have to cut the outside face of the body at all...just eliminated the rear most floor crossbrace ...i cut the body channel (subrails?) to clear the frame and if i go slightly farther front (the the deck brace) it should sit down so theres only a very minimal gap...i'll be doing my own body mounts and what not too so hopefully it isnt too much of a problem...we'll see when i get there i really wanted a 30/31 roadster but this 28 just fell in my lap zach
Thanks. The body sits down fractionally lower than is seen in the pics. Had to cut about 3/4" or so off the already bobbed rear frame rails to allow the frame to drop in further. The body mounts are made from 1 x 2" x .120 wall rectangular tubing with one of the wide faces cut off in a bandsaw. Grind a curve on the outer legs of the mount and you have a very nice looking constant thickness channel that's sorta factory looking.
The Jalopy Journal
