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fame rails

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Gumboot, Mar 19, 2010.

  1. Gumboot
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 16

    Gumboot
    Member

    So when building a frame from scratch, what sized materials have you all used? And how much hp/trq are you running on that/those frames?

    I have a '34 Chev pickup that a customer wants built into a custom rat rod. It'll start as a rat rod but as he saves up more money, we'll slowly build into a full on street rod. So, we want the frame to be good and sturdy and able to handle a good 5-600rwhp later, but will only be handling 3-400rwhp at first.

    I know that structural design is an important part and it will be built properly, but what materials have you all used?

    Cheers
    Kevin
     
  2. Midwest Rodder
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,768

    Midwest Rodder
    Member

    We have used 2x4 boxed steel for the one we built, it had a close to stock 350 and auto. Zd 12 in the rear, no problems to this day. He drives it quite a bit durring the summer months.
     
  3. N8B
    Joined: Sep 28, 2009
    Posts: 476

    N8B
    Member

    Kevin,

    Rat Rod frame rails are usually made out of cardboard or particle board can be acceptable.
    Street rods generally require frame rails that will be gold plated so a good thick tin based metal will do fine.

    All jokes aside.
    .125 for mild applications (common early production stampings were .125) or 3/16's for heavy will usually do it.

    Or as noted above you could use rec. tube.
     
  4. brucer
    Joined: Jun 5, 2008
    Posts: 332

    brucer
    Member
    from western ky

    i like 3/16wall 2x3 rect. tubing
     
  5. hotrod56cars
    Joined: Apr 3, 2007
    Posts: 464

    hotrod56cars
    Member

    I used 1/8" thick 2" X 4". Stock 289/auto.
     
  6. carkiller
    Joined: Jun 12, 2002
    Posts: 849

    carkiller
    Member

    I use differnt sizes, 2x3 2x4 and 2x5 but allways 3/16
     
  7. .120 wall 2" x 4" rectangular tubing is a good place to start. Art Morisson uses it for a lot of his frames. The key to strength is in the frame's ability to resist the twisting forces imposed by torque and suspension dynamics. This means you need to design your center cross member to do more than support the transmission. A cross member forward of the rear suspension with a drive shaft hoop provides a lot of strength and a good place to anchor rear suspension arms or "bars."
     
  8. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member


    I used the same tubing for the rails on the car in my avatar.
    302 engine, auto.
     
  9. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 10,766

    Rickybop
    Member

    A "K" member or "X" member will strengthen the frame substantially.
     
  10. Gumboot
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 16

    Gumboot
    Member

    Awesome, good info, keep it commin.

    I guess the next question will be: Got pics of your frame designs? and finished frames?

    We found an unknow year Fargo box to use on the project yesterday. That's goin to ook pretty rad when I'm done.

    Cheers
    Kevin
     
  11. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,128

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Here's one I did for my truck...117" wheel base. 6 1/2" front Z and 14" rear Z. Used 2x4x.120 wall............
     

    Attached Files:

  12. s**** metal, you goin to the M&G?
     
  13. Gumboot
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 16

    Gumboot
    Member


    Good info, got any pics of what you mean?
     

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