Title question 1949 Chevy P/U

I brought my buddy's 49' chevy p/u over tonight. It is an original in pretty nice shape. We are going to do a paint job on it.

The question of ***les came up, I think the truck would have the engine tag number on the ***le. He thinks it would be the number from the tag on the drivers door jamb. He has some concerns because they have it ***led from the door tag. He has been unable to decode those numbers to make any sence. this is a missouri ***led truck. Thanks for any input you got...

 

Have a 52 and the tag is on the door jam.

 

I don't have my Chevy book handy, but they're not hard to decode. If the number on the tag matches the number on the ***le, what difference does it make?

 

I can't speak to Missouri, but I think its much smarter to have the ***le match the door tag.

When that truck was new it was common to use the motor number, which was stupid because when the motor wears out and is replaced you loose the original number.

As for decoding the numbers there are several decoders available on the web. The one at Stovebolt.com is pretty good.

 

Have a question for you all - have an old Chevy PU 16K capacity (probably 1949) and it was left on my property years before I bought the place. There is a number on the door of 6RSF1056 - have no clue what state to try and get the ***le. Is there anyway I can get a ***le for this old truck or should I part it out. Any suggestions out there?????

 

http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/vehicle/***lereg.shtml

Oregon DMV. Too easy.

 

6RSF1056 shows up as a 1948 COE 2 ton (Cab Over Engine). I'll take it!

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/vin/vinbuster.html

As for the ***le, it could be the motor or the door on the VIN. If you've got the original engine, you should be fine. If not, Oldsub is 100% correct.

 

When I bought my 1950 3100 in 2008 it didn't have a ***le. It did have the tag in the door jam. I was able to ***le it through MI with no problems. My truck didn't have the orignal engine. I would agree with others, it is better to have the tag ( for the vin ) rather than the engine. Hope it works out for you !!!

 

It is the number on the plate in the drivers door. Just went through this. They even repop those tags new now.

 

I knew Dan would clear this situation up.

Then promptly try to scoop up the vehicle..............

 

The tag on the door is not like a VIN number, all it is info about when and where and what model the truck is. There is no paint code, no engine I.D. other than the number stamped on the block, which again is just basic info. You'll be running around like a chicken without a head trying to figure out something that isn't there.

 

Guess what, it's a TRUCK, it doesn't HAVE all that stuff it IS ONLY a VIN. VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER. Tells you that it was made on X date in X year at X plant and is X model with X wheelbase. There isn't another tag on an AD truck. You can click on the link I posted and see just what it says. You could even look up your '51 to see what it says. The cars of this era were the same, it was a VIN, not a BODY TAG that had the rest of the info.

And Trucked Up, its a friggin COE!!! How could I NOT want it (even if it is a cro-magnon splitter!)

 

Depends on the state. Some registered the ENGINE number stamped on the block, some states registered the VIN. Some states registered the MODEL YEAR of the truck as the year it was SOLD not MADE. Yes, they repop the tags new but you need to know what NUMBER to put on it to make it legal.

If you have a do***ent that has an ENGINE number are you going to stamp that on a new tag and then find out it isn't a valid VIN?

 

I want to be next in line after danimal. I want the 48 coe too.

 

Where can I buy a repo tag?

 

You can buy the repo tags thourgh Cl***ic Parts for $25 bucks www.cl***icparts.com Or you could buy the 54 3100 tag I have with ***le.

 

I don't like to call the cab numbers a VIN because VIN is a formal concept recognized internationally with a set structure across nearly every car and truck maker.

The US recognized the VIN system in the early 80's and it became standard here with 1981 US made vehicles. I might be off a year but you can look it up to confirm.

So on our old trucks we end up with a serial number that tells us what, where and when, and is short on any of the details.... And if that door tag is missing we may have the original motor still tied to the ***le, and a bit less info about the truck itself.

I own two split-window Chevy COEs (realistically its more than one but not two) and really want a '54 GMC COE. I would not get real excited about another old one, but a '54 might get my trailer out of the yard!

 

Technically speaking they started referring to it as a "VIN" in 1968 and 68-81 VINs do share some standardization across the industry, at least for US vehicles. The modern 17 character VIN is what came in 1981. Cars before 1968 merely have a serial number for the body. What info is in that serial number varies from make to make and year to year. The motor number may match up to the sequential production number - but it could be off a few digits, or a bunch, or not match in any way, again depending on who made it and when.

When it comes to registering/***ling one, as long as there is a number somewhere that matches your paper, or a number/tag on the body, that's all that matters. How many flaming 24" hoops you need to jump through while naked except for a coat of gasoline to get plates and a current ***le/registration, varies from state to state.

 

mine was on the drivers door jam but worn completely bare. luckily I had a clean ***le to work with.

 

lol!